I’ve been doing a lot of sewing lately: finishing up sewing PHDs (Projects Half Done), both physical and mental.

Physical PHDs are things I actually started that have languished unfinished.

Mental PHDs are things I bought (or was given) fabric for thinking “I’ll just do this project quickly”.  Even though I haven’t actually started the project, it still preys on my mind as an unfinished idea!

Mental PHDs are particularly frustrating when they are really quick simple projects.  Surely I could find the hour needed to make it!

And yet my life has so many ideas and so few hours…

But here’s one I did!

When I was down in Christchurch visiting Lynne last year she gave me a beautifully made nightgown of very high quality fabric which had some wear in the upper half, and a lost sleeve:

The skirt fabric was still in excellent condition, and I thought it would make the perfect 18th century under-petticoat.

Under-petticoats were shorter petticoats tied over the shift, and worn under the stays, pockets, and over-petticoats.  You can see one here:

Re-making a modern nightgown into an 18th century under-petticoat means mine won’t be fully accurate of course.

The nightgown iss cotton, which was a luxury fabric in the 18th century, so very uncommon compared to linen and wool (and even silk) for an under-petticoat.  It’s also only 200cm around at the hem, which is a little on the narrow side.   The embroidery designs aren’t typical of the 18th century, but the idea of embroidery is: many extant under-petticoats are decorated with embroidery.

The spirit of my petticoat is definitely accurate though: re-making, saving, and using what you have!

To make mine I measured up from the hem and marked the length I wanted: 85cm/33”

I cut it roughly:

And then tidied up the edge:

Normally I prefer a centre back placket in an under-petticoat, but with two side seams already in place, a centre back placket would only add a point of weakness, and be more work.

So I opened up the left side seam, reinforced the bottom, and hemmed the opening.

Then I cut a waistband, and marked quarters in the waistband and skirt.  I made sure to keep m waistband a couple of inches shorter than my natural waist, so it could always be tied without trying to overlap.

Then the moment when the petticoat starts to look like something: I pleated the skirt to fit the waistband, with all the pleats facing away from the front, towards the centre back.

I pinned on the waistband:

And then sewed it on.

By machine…

The petticoat already has lots of machine sewing, and since it’s winter I need to take care of my hands and limit hand sewing to the places where it really counts.

Like tie hems!  Such a satisfying moment, and impossible to do beautifully by any method but with handsewing.

And there’s my under-petticoat!

And very satisfactory it is!  Works well too..it had its inaugural outing under the chintz petticoat you see behind it.

If you want to make your own, Burnley & Trowbridge have a video tutorial, and the American Duchess 18th century Costuming book includes under-petticoat instructions.

Now I just have to figure out what to do with the rest of of the nightgown.  Oh dear.  Another PHD…

And for the Historical Sew Fortnightly 2021:

The Challenge: The Costumer’s New Look (April): Give an old costume a new look, either by creating a new accessory or piece which expands or changes the aesthetic and use of an outfit, re-fashioning something into a costume item, or re-making an old costume.

Material:  An old cotton nightgown

Pattern:  None, based on period methods.

Year:  1750-1795

Notions:  Cotton tape

How historically accurate is it?  Not at all in precise techniques, but accurate in spirit.

Hours to complete:  >1.5 hours

First worn: For an 18th century dinner, late June.

Total cost:  0!