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Mansfield & the Modern Woman: a fashion history talk

Need some fashion history in your weekend?

Come hear me talk about Katherine Mansfield, the New Zealand suffrage movement, and ideals and archetypes of femininity in late 19th & early 20th c New Zealand – all illustrated with models in gorgeous costumes.

Mansfield & the Modern Woman

New Zealand Portrait Gallery, Shed 11  

Sunday, 7th October, 1pm

Free

This talk is part of Mansfield 130 and Suffrage 125

There will be models in gorgeous dresses, fabulous artwork, and interesting history.  What’s not to love?

If you aren’t able to come in person, enjoy some of the media coverage of me in preparation for the event:

Rate the Dress: Bright blue & burgundy 1870s

One of my favourite things about Rate the Dress is the way it encourages me to find thematic links between different eras, and garments that seem otherwise unrelated.  This week’s 1870s Rate the Dress keeps with the theme of buttons playing peek-a-boo amongst the layers, and adds in a bold and unusual colour scheme that Poiret would have definitely approved of.

Last week: Poiret plays with buttons

Last week you either liked/really didn’t like the button trim, and thought the back bow ruined/made the dress, and were completely enamoured/turned off by the scalloped hem, and loved/hated the chemise effect and chiffon sleeves.  If any element of the dress was someone’s favourite, it was also someone else’s least favourite!

Except for all the ones that only had favourites, and the significantly smaller group that totally disliked it.  It was a bit of a marmite dress.

The Total: 7.4 out of 10

A dress where the total really doesn’t reflect the majority of individual feelings: out of 37 ratings, only one was a 7.5!

This week: Bright blue and burgundy 1870s

This first-bustle-era dress features deep burgundy red and vivid, almost electric, blue, tied together with a small floral pattern perfectly matched to the colours.

Like Poiret’s dress it features buttons running down the centre front, popping in and out of layers.  Unlike lasts week’s pick, these buttons are functional (and actually buttons) and end at the waist.

Also like Poiret’s dress, it features bows as trim (albeit significantly more of them).

Instead of chiffon, there are lace frills at the cuffs

And instead of flat scallops, the skirt is edged with elaborate pleating.

It’s certainly a different look to Poiret’s dress, but it has some of the same sense of whimsy and playfulness.  It’s possible that it was made for a very young woman: it’s quite small, and has only a 7.5″ difference between bust and waist.

Whether it was made for a teenager, or a very petite woman, it was certainly made for someone with personality and the willingness to wear something a bit bold.  What do you think of it?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

A reminder about rating — feel free to be critical if you don’t like a thing, but make sure that your comments aren’t actually insulting to those who do like a garment.  Our different tastes are what make Rate the Dress so interesting.  It’s no fun when a comment implies that anyone who doesn’t agree with it, or who would wear a garment, is totally lacking in taste.

(as usual, nothing more complicated than a .5.  I also hugely appreciate it if you only do one rating, and set it on a line at the very end of your comment, so I can find it!  Thanks in advance!)

Toi Whakaari New Zealand Drama School Costuming

#mytoistory Toi Whakaari the New Zealand Drama School

I’m delighted to (somewhat belatedly) announce that at the start of May I accepted the position of Senior Tutor, Costume Construction at Toi Whakaari: New Zealand Drama School.

Toi Whakaari is New Zealand’s oldest and largest performing arts school, and offers the only tertiary course focused on costume construction for stage and screen in New Zealand.  The two-year Diploma course covers everything from dyeing and corsetmaking to leatherwork and worbla.  It’s very small, with a maximum intake of only 8 students each year, and very competitive.

 

Teaching at Toi is the perfect job for me: it gives me the opportunity to teach both academic and hands-on craft skills, and to expand my own learning, both through historical research and technical experimentation.  I’m incredibly privileged to be able to contribute to the next generation of costumers, and to learn from all my immensely talented colleagues.

Teaching at Toi is also almost literally a dream come true.  When I first moved to New Zealand almost 13 years ago I looked at the career options in Wellington, and saw the course at Toi Whakaari and though “teaching there would be the dream job”.  I ended up using the art history and museum work parts of my degree and experience, and going into museums instead, but Toi Whakaari stayed on my radar.

I went to the Costume Showcase (the graduating costuming students theatrical presentation of their major works) most years.  And then, after my Fortnight in 1916, Kaarin Slevin, the Head of Costume, asked me to present on it at the school.  This led to contract work teaching costume history.  I loved my time at the school so much that when the previous Senior Tutor left to become head of the Royal NZ Ballet workroom I applied for her position – and now I’m part of the school.

It’s fantastic to be part of an organisation that combines creativity with rigour, and where, on any given day, you see students practicing Shakespeare in the corridors, making a shared salad for lunch in the plaza (by holding a clean tarp below a walkway and pouring the vegetables and dressing down on to it, and then tossing it, as you do), hand-sewing while reading in the library, or improvising costumes out of pieces scrounged from the lost and found bin.  Toi Whakaari shares its building (Te Whaea) with the New Zealand School of Dance, so you can also watch the ballet and contemporary dancers practicing.

Toi Whakaari is particularly amazing and unique because the school’s processes are based around Tikanga Māori (the Māori way of doing things), rather than ones founded in a European tradition.  Coming from an academic and professional background that has usually been rigidly hierarchical and heavily focused on Western ideas of success and accomplishment, being somewhere that provides space for the entire organisation to speak and listen to each other, that allows for a multitude of ways to learn, and succeed, and that works for success built on collaboration and support, rather than competition, is a revelation.

On a lighter note, Toi Whakaari is also fabulous because Te Whaea’s bilingual pun game is on point (you could almost say it was on whaea…(hint: ‘wh’ is usually pronounced like an F in te reo Māori).  The school’s advertising slogan is #mytoistory (toi means art in Te Reo Maori, whakaari is to perform).  The New Zealand School of Dance runs a programme called TÅ« Move (tÅ«: stand up).  While sometimes (jokingly) used by the students, describing the male half of the student body as Toi Bois is not, however, officially endorsed.

A final reason why Toi Whakaari is the best: it’s the kind of school where the Set & Props course makes a full-sized, moveable, operational Dalek.  Yussssss….

Toi Whakaari New Zealand Drama School Costuming Obviously I’m very excited about working for Toi Whakaari, and think its a fantastic school, and would be delighted to talk to anyone who was interested, or to direct you on to the right person if Props or Design or Acting is more your thing.

Here are a few photos of the workroom and student work:

Toi Whakaari New Zealand Drama School Costuming

The bright pink half-scale dresses were the students trials for their patternmaking course.  I designed the dresses, and taught patternmaking, and they turned my designs into reality!

Toi Whakaari New Zealand Drama School Costuming

Toi Whakaari New Zealand Drama School Costuming

Toi Whakaari New Zealand Drama School Costuming

Toi Whakaari New Zealand Drama School Costuming

And some behind the scene images from Costume Showcase 2018:

Toi Whakaari Costume Showcase 2018, thedreamstress.com

Toi Whakaari Costume Showcase 2018, thedreamstress.com

Toi Whakaari Costume Showcase 2018, thedreamstress.com

Toi Whakaari Costume Showcase 2018, thedreamstress.com

Toi Whakaari Costume Showcase 2018, thedreamstress.com

Joining Toi does explain why my blogging and Scroop patternmaking have been a bit sparse since May: I’ve been focused on learning the ropes and class planning.  Stepping in to a whole years worth of new classes is quite a bit of work.