Latest Posts

Rate the Dress: an informal ensemble in green and gold, ca. 1740

Last week I showed a Finnish evening dress from 1912, which appeared sage green in the photos available.  I was pleasantly surprised by how much you liked the dress – I thought it was nice, with some fabulous trim work, but not exceptional for its era, but absolutely everyone rated it higher than I would have.  Hurrah!  So the dress achieved an impressive 9.2 out of 10.

In contrast to last week’s gala dress, this week’s ensemble is an informal indoors affair, consisting of a jacket, quilted petticoat, and embroidered apron, all from the first half of the 18th century.

Intriguingly, the jacket is made from 17th century silk, and may possibly be a re-make of an earlier garment.

Whilst this style of outfit was intended for informal indoors wear amongst the upper classes, the apron, elaborately embroidered with Chinoiserie motifs, was clearly intended to impress, both for the skill of the embroidery, and for the knowledge and worldliness the pattern implied.

The quilted petticoat was a very popular garment throughout the 18th century, providing warmth and ease of movement.  The simple lattice-work pattern of this example isn’t as elaborate as some, but provides a suitable backdrop for the apron, and the sheen of the green silk would have reflected candlelight beautifully.

What do you think?  It’s an outfit that was intended to be attractive, and enviable, while still giving an overall air of simplicity.  Has it worked?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

Ruffles to Rebellion thedreamstress.com, images by http::facundo.pixieset.com/

Help restore the Katherine Mansfield House & Garden

There was a lot of damage in New Zealand in the recent earthquake – some obvious, some that is only beginning to be apparent.  My nearest and dearest came through relatively unscathed – but one place that is close to my heart was rather battered by the quake.

The Katherine Mansfield House & Garden Museum on Tinakori Road, had a spectacular old-fashion garden, bordered on one edge by the neighbours  old brick wall.

The wall, plastered and painted grey, made a lovely backdrop for photshoots amongst plants mentioned in Mansfield’s writings.  Unfortunately it came crashing down on the house in the quake, crushing the garden and damaging the house.

The museum is raising money to remove the wall, repair the damage, and erect a new (earthquake safe) boundary wall.

If you’ve ever visited the museum, enjoyed my photos taken there, or at a benefit talk I’ve given for the museum, or simply loved Mansfield’s writings, and feel moved to help repair the museum, you can:  donate here on their Boosted page.    

Here are a few of the photos that Facundo got after my Ruffles to Rebellion talk last year, in front of the now-collapsed wall:

Ruffles to Rebellion thedreamstress.com, images by http::facundo.pixieset.com/

Ruffles to Rebellion thedreamstress.com, images by http::facundo.pixieset.com/

You can see how tall the wall was in this image:

Ruffles to Rebellion thedreamstress.com, images by http::facundo.pixieset.com/

For more posts on the Katherine Mansfield House  & Katherine Mansfield see:

How to sew knits with a straight stitch thedreamstress & scrooppatterns.com

Sewing knit fabrics with a straight stitch: ‘stretch-as-you-sew’ stitching

Following on from last week’s post breaking down the benefits and drawbacks of 4 ways to sew knit fabrics for the Scroop Miramar dress & top, here is a quick little video tutorial* on how to do ‘stretch as you sew’ sewing, where you build the stretch into a straight stitch by stretching the fabric as you sew it:

It’s a great technique, and does work well if done right – the fabric stretches beautifully, and the seam is lovely and smooth from the outside, and can be pressed completely flat and open if needed.

The drawbacks are that the stitches are really small and hard to unpick, and it can be hard to control the fabric and to stretch it evenly.  You can mitigate the first by lengthening your stitch slightly, but this tends to make the control issues even more of a problem.

The stress of stretching the fabric as it is sewn can also cause ripples in the fabric, but these can almost always be fixed with a bit of steam ironing.  Occasionally I encounter a fabric with good stretch, but poor recovery, where the lack of recovery and the stress placed on the fabric as you stretch and sew it result in permanent warping and ripples.

The solution is to practice, and test.  Practice the technique until you can stretch the fabric evenly and smoothly, without wobbling about, and always, always, test your fabric with this stitch before committing to your garment.

Four ways to sew with knit fabrics, thedreamstress and scrooppatterns.com

The fabric stretches nicely

* my first video tutorial! It makes me dreadfully nervous, but I think I did pretty well considering I was holding the camera, talking, and sewing, all at the same time!