Latest Posts

Etiquette for costumers: how to behave when out and about

There has been a bit of a brou-ha-ha in costuming and re-enacting circles over the last week over how to behaving in public while dressed up, and how much  we should expect from the public to accommodate our particular  needs due to our lifestyle choice.

I don’t want to get involved in the specific drama that has triggered this, but I thought that a bit of a guideline of the things that I keep in mind, and the things that I warn models and friends dressing up with me to be aware of, when dressed in costumes of period attire, might be helpful.

These are rules of  etiquette I stick to when  I’m out and about in costume or historical dress, whether it’s just having fun wearing a costume for a day, being in a public space for a photoshoot (formal or informal), stopping at the supermarket on my way home for a talk, or living as much as possible in the past  for the Fortnight in 1916.

My goal is always to be as courteous as possible to the general public and the businesses and institutions that generously allow me to use their facilities, and to give people a positive impression of costumers.*

Courtesy of Tony McKay Photography and Glory Days Magazine

Courtesy of Tony McKay Photography and Glory Days Magazine

1. When you’re in public in a costume or historical dress, you’re an ambassador for all costumers and re-enactors.  

Most of the public don’t encounter a huge number of  costumers or people in historical dress.  So whatever impression you give will be the impression that they take away of costumers.  If you are kind, welcoming, and polite, they will assume we all are, and will treat us in like manner.  If you’re snobby, and demanding, and a know-it-all, the next five costumers who encounter this person will pay for your rudeness.

So when people say ‘Oh, you look just like Belle from Beauty and the Beast‘ when I wear Ninon, I smile and say ‘thank you!’ and take the compliment in the spirit it was intended, although I personally do not care for  Disney princesses.  Then, if they seem really interested, I may tell them my dress is actually  based on a 17th century portrait of the French kings cousin, wearing a style of dress that did indeed influence the design for Belle’s gown (via Robe de Cour).  But I do this with enthusiasm, and a smile, so they learn something, but don’t go away feeling that historical costumers are snobs, or that all I did was correct them.

I try to behave well in public at all times, but I try particularly hard in costume: I’m less anonymous, and I represent a group.  Unless it’s for a large public event where lots of people will be in costume, or I’m feeling particularly and unusually extroverted, I do find it a bit hard to be so noticeable, but I smile and respond to comments so that people don’t think costumers are mean and clique-ish.

2. If you assume that people will react positively to you  in a costume, 99.9% of the time they will.

If you go out assuming you will get a positive reaction, and treat people well, in my personal experience, people will react positively.  I have never encountered a negative reaction to going about in costume or period dress.**

I have met dozens of little girls who asked if I was a princess, delighted hundreds of tourists who asked if they could take my picture at scenic spots, been told I ‘looked just like my wife did when I courted her’ by an elderly man, complimented on how elegant I looked by staff in stores, and asked if I was dressed for an event, or  where someone could get a similar outfit.  Dozens upon dozens of people have said I looked like (insert current most famous period drama here).  Most often I’m given a slightly startled look, and then treated exactly as I would be in normal clothing.

The many people I know who costume report the same experiences: people either  like (or love) seeing something a bit different, or don’t  mind, as long as we don’t interfere with their life and rights.

3. Always check ahead to ensure that the event or place you are going to is OK with your outfit and event plans.

When I’m in outfit I’m usually planning to do something: have a picnic or high tea, give a talk, take photos, go to a movie or a museum exhibition, etc.  I’m familiar with most venues in my area, and what their rules are, but when going somewhere new, or somewhere that might be different than usual (a particularly popular film or museum exhibition, for example), I always check to make sure that what I plan to do is acceptable to the venue.

Some venues do not allow costumes.  I have found that with some venues that don’t allow costumes, if you call and manage to speak to someone a bit higher up, and explain your situation if it’s a bit unusual, and if you’re extremely polite and charming, you can be given an exemption (and sometimes venues say ‘oh, we’ve been thinking about changing that, why doesn’t your group come as a trial, and we’ll see how that goes’, in which case your group should try exceptionally hard to behave exceedingly well so that other groups can have the privilege).  Most of the time though, venues have chosen a ‘no costume’ policy for really good reasons, and  that’s that.

If you do happen to get caught at a venue or event in an outfit that is deemed a costume (after all, I wear a lot of ’20s & ’30s, stuff, complete with hat, as normal attire) and not OK, ask if there is anything you can do to tone down your outfit be allowed in.  Be polite, and work with the venue.  If you’re apologetic and courteous  and willing to  compromise, I’ve never encountered a venue that won’t try to make it work for both of you.  You may have to take off your hat and most of your accessories, or put someone’s cardi on to tone it down, but you’ll get to be where you want to be.

Checking ahead applies to talks and movies and shows and museum openings, unless the host/business has specifically indicated that costumes are OK.  People often ask me if it’s alright  to dress up for my talks, and while I’ve always been delighted to say ‘yes’, I really appreciate that they ask.

If you’re going to an event specifically to outshine the show.  Don’t.  That’s just another level of rude.

4. While we may be dressed for another timeperiod, in public we’re still in the 21st century, and need to behave according the rules and mores of this time.

You may be doing extremely serious re-enacting, following the social rules and mores of another timeperiod in every way for days on end, but once you leave your reenacting area, even if you’re still in costume, you’re in the 21st century and you need to act like it.  You can’t expect men to open doors for you as a lady (unless that’s still the standard where you are), or that you should be able to make decisions for women if you’re a man.  Continuing to act in period, and expecting the world to act along with you, and to be aware of the dictates of polite society that ended decades or centuries ago, is rude, selfish, and frankly, incredibly immature.

Remembering that we’re still in the 20th century  includes things like taking off hats if you have to go into a bank, and removing masks and any weapons (even peace bonded ones) for any business.

And finally…

5. Our needs in costume or historical dress are not more important than other people’s right to use a venue, and to go about their business in normal fashion.

Whether we’re cosplayers, re-enactors, or social historians doing living history experiments, we’ve chosen to wear the clothes we’re wearing.  And it’s a lifestyle choice, not a religion, so we don’t get the same rights and allowances as people who wear clothes dictated by their faith do in most Western countries.  We can’t expect society to rearrange itself to accommodate our needs in costume.

Remembering that we only get the same rights as everyone else  can include things as simple as not hogging a desirable photo location.  Most people will give you right of way, and more time at a pretty spot, if you are particularly dressed up, but you have to be very, very careful not to take advantage of this.  Tourists in pants-that-unzip-to-shorts have just as much right to get their picture taken as a group in historical dress.  Step aside, give people time, be quick, don’t take more time than anyone else if there are others waiting.  Costumers hogging spots is a good way to get costumes banned from a venue permanently (I’ve seen it happen).

If you’re going to the theatre, make sure your hairstyles aren’t going to get in anyone’s line of vision.  Make sure your skirts aren’t so big they take more than your chair space at a restaurant.

If you need to be sure you won’t burp while wearing a corset (yes, this is a problem!), call ahead to a dinner event and make sure that there will be non-carbonated options, and that supplying them isn’t too much of a hassle for the venue.

Just be aware that there are other people in the world, and they need to get their business done.  Don’t make your choice a problem for them.

A 1900s Anne of Green Gables skirt thedreamstress.com

* For the purpose of simplicity and brevity I’m going to use costumers as a general synonym for anyone in non-standard, non-period to the 2010s attire.  I know  that not everyone feels it is the most technically accurate term for people in period dress, but in this case I’m sure you will all understand the intent of my usage.

** For the purpose of honest, I suppose I should acknowledge that I was once yelled at by men driving past while taking photos near a road, but since I have been yelled at by men dozens of times while in modern clothes, I think we can safely (or un-safely, as it were) say this is about men who feel they have a right to yell at women, not about whether I was in a costume of not.

1913-1916 Sunshine & Roses corset thedreamstress.com

A 1913-1916 Sunshine & Roses corset

Thanks to the total and abject failure of my 1910s non-travelling corset, and the super-comfortable but slightly too big-ness of my 1916 black and white corset, I decided I  needed to make a new 1910s corset to go under my 1914-15 spiderweb evening gown  for Costume College.

1913-1916 Sunshine & Roses corset thedreamstress.com

This may not have been my brightest idea ever, as I was already pushing it to get the evening gown itself finished in time, but 1910s corsets are pretty easy, so…

I used the same 1916 corset pattern from Salen’s corset book as I’d used for the black and white corset, only this time I adapted the pattern pieces slightly for an earlier ‘teens silhouette: reducing the waist to hip ratio, and cutting the front into a lower dip.

I kept the higher scoop of the lower back  edge of the corset as it is, although it’s an unusual feature on corsets before 1914, because it’s so comfortable, especially for sitting.

Because the black and white corset was as big as it could be while still fitting me properly, I also reduced the size for this version, which is where things went a little badly.  I know from experience that when I’m stressed and in a hurry I tend to get my maths crossed, so I carefully measured and calculated for a corset that was 2.5″ smaller in the waist than my black and white version.

And then I applied those calculations to each half  of the corset, rather than the full thing.  AND forgot that I wasn’t meant to take the reduction measure off the front and back seams as well.    GAH!

I realised this with enough time to let out one seam, but the corset  is still 5″ smaller than my black and white corset, which means the corset is quite snug, and leaves a bit more of a lacing gap in back than I prefer.

1913-1916 Sunshine & Roses corset thedreamstress.com

Choosing fabric for the corset was quite easy – I already had a delicious cotton/viscose blend corset brocade that the wonderful  Comtesse (she of the historical dinner party) gifted to me when she left NZ (sniff).

I spent a couple of hours attempting pattern matching on the corset before giving it up as a bad and nearly impossible idea, and just cutting the fabric as frugally as possible.

1913-1916 Sunshine & Roses corset thedreamstress.com

After a quick test, I wasn’t happy with how supportive the brocade was on its own, so I went rummaging in my stash for lining, which turned out to be surprisingly hard – I have lots of accurate cotton sateens and twills, but all in bright whites or warm creams, which looked awful with the silvery white of the brocade.

I finally remembered a yellow and white ticking that I picked up at Fabric-a-Brac for only $2 (yay!) because it had marks.  A good launder, and my fabric was not only pre-washed, but mark free – happiness!

1913-1916 Sunshine & Roses corset thedreamstress.com

The addition of the ticking makes the corset a little heavier than I’d intended, and if I hadn’t been trying to get this done in record time I’d probably have held out for a lighter secondary fabric, but I’m still happy with the result.  And it’s yellow!

1913-1916 Sunshine & Roses corset thedreamstress.comI’d originally intended to call this corset the ‘Rose Daughter’ corset, but with the addition of the yellow it became ‘Sunshine & Roses’*.

As I had two layers of fabric, I set the boning channels between the layers, rather than sewing on extra boning channels, which is nice and fabric and time efficient, but not particularly accurate for the 1910s.

1913-1916 Sunshine & Roses corset thedreamstress.com

I ran into a further problem when making the corset when I realised I had no 10″ or 11″ busks, but a frantic call to Madame Ornata rescued me, and she ‘lent’ me a busk until I could pick up a replacement one for her at Costume College.

Since I’d already ruined any pretence of HA, and since I couldn’t find my twill binding, or a lace that would look good on along the top of the corset, I just bound the corset in bias, and did really simple garter hooks.  I also passed on a waist stay, although I’ve never found an example of a 1910s corset without one, because I hate waist stays in 1910s corsets.

I may eventually decide to undo the binding, possibly even let out the corset another 1″, re-bind with a twill, and do proper garter hooks.

But, for now, it’s done, and has been worn, and works.

It has also received the official cat seal of approval, so that’s good:

1913-1916 Sunshine & Roses corset thedreamstress.com

It’s a little soft, but I’m still counting for the Historical Sew Fortnightly ‘Patterns’ challenge.  I feel better about including softer items if I’ve already made one proper challenge item.

What the item is:  a 1913-16 corset

The Challenge:  #8  Pattern

Fabric/Materials:  1m of cotton/viscose brocade  (a gift), 1m of yellow striped cotton ticking ($1).

Pattern:  My own, adapted from the 1916 corset pattern in Jill Salen’s Corsets: Historical Patterns and Techniques.

Year:  1913-1916

Notions:  cotton thread, a busk ($30), grommets ($5), german plastic boning ($15).

How historically accurate is it?    I’m not familiar with any examples of 1910s corsets with the boning channels placed between layers, rather than sewn on as separate channels, nor are there period examples of corsets bound with bias binding, but the shape and silhouette it gives are spot on, so once it’s under an outfit, you can’t tell.  So 60%ish.

Hours to complete:  Around 8

First worn:  For the Costume College Gala Ball, Sat 30 July

1913-1916 Sunshine & Roses corset thedreamstress.com

* If you hadn’t guessed from my evening gown, I had Robin McKinley very much on my mind while finishing up my Costume College sewing.

Costume College, or How I learned to stop worrying and have a fabulous time: advice and reflections for first timers.

This July/August I got to go to Costume College in LA for the first time.  It was amazing, and  I had a fabulous time in every possible way.

Now that I’ve been, I desperately want to go back, and can’t believe I didn’t manage to get there sooner!

I also can’t believe how stressed I was about the thought of Costume College.  I’m a worrier, I fretted and built up huge obstacles in my mind, which prevented me from really attempting to go for years, and which also made the run-up to it much more emotionally fraught that it needed to be.

I think a lot of the things I worried about with Costume College are pretty common among first timers, so I thought I’d address my biggest fears, and how they turned out to be not at all a problem, which will hopefully reassure some future attendees!

Worry #1: I’m not good enough, and my work isn’t good enough.

Like many people in the arts, I’m hyper-critical of my own work. I know every tiny fault in everything I make, and to me they are glaringly obvious (except creases — there are lots of times when I don’t care at all that a garment is creased, or feel it actually adds to the authenticity). Showing items off in a setting with so many amazing, talented people creating costumes at a level way above mine is super scary.

However, even when wearing things that are 5 years old, and that don’t reflect my current skills, I never once felt inadequate, or lacking in accomplishments.

No matter how spectacular and fabulous a garment was, I found seeing it in person both incredibly inspiring, and incredibly reassuring. I’m used to seeing costumes in photos, and when costumers post photos they post their favourite ones, where they, and the costume, appears to the very best advantage. Not only do nice angles obscure awkwardness that is pretty obvious in real life, but good lighting and lovely locales enhance even the most exquisite of garments. Everything looks better with a pretty backdrop!

Even when I’m studying photos for the technical and construction details I find myself getting swept away in the romance of the image: the atmospheric light, and the fabulous setting. In the reality of a hotel hallway, a costume may still be a triumph of technical skill and aesthetic artistry, but it is still clearly a garment made by a person. No matter how perfectly an outfit was constructed, being able to see it in person, and to see how it moved and was made, made it accessible. Even when a garment was even MORE amazing in person than in photos, seeing it in real life turned it from something that you looked at as a still image and felt you could never possibly do, to something where you saw how it had been done, and could aspire to.

I look at all my photos from Costume College, and instead of thinking “I’ll never be that good” I think “Yeah! I saw that thing and it was AMAZING but now I’m that much closer to being that amazing myself.”

This was really one of the biggest things I’ve taken from CoCo. Everything was SO fabulous, but I don’t feel diminished by it, I feel inspired. I’m pretty sure you’re going to see a massive leap in the level of things I create over the next 12 months, thanks to the things I saw at CoCo.

How to have an awesome time at Costume College, thedreamstress.com2

Worry #2: Everyone will judge my work

As hard as I am on myself about my work, it still really hurts when others critique it. There is a huge difference between knowing and pointing out your own faults, to having someone else point them out. So I was scared about wearing things like Ninon that I love, but know could be so much better if I made it now (more experience + so much new research has been published).

Of all the hundreds of conversations about the outfits at CoCo that I participated in or overheard, not one was a critique about construction or historical accuracy, and only one of them was a comparison (“my X being better than similar Y” – and it was pretty clear that the listeners on that one were a bit shocked and felt that a judged comparison was quite unnecessary, and did the speaker no favours). Bar that one comment, everything was a rave review. The weekend was a sea of “Oh my goodness, did you see that dress! It’s amazing! And that one, and that one, and that one…” and “You look FABULOUS, do you mind if I take a picture?”*

How to have an awesome time at Costume College, thedreamstress.com

Photographing two awesome costumes, as one is photographed by the other

People were clearly not there to judge, and they weren’t there to compete, they were there to learn, admire, and enjoy. The only competition at Costume College is with yourself: how much better can you be than you were before?

Worry #3: I don’t know anyone.

There were only three people at CoCo that I had ever met in person before my trip, and with all three it was very briefly, at one event almost a decade ago. However, I did KNOW lots of people who were there. I’ve read their blog, and they have read mine, and I’m in costuming groups with them on Facebook.

The internet has made it really easy to know people, and to be part of the community even before you arrive. If you take an effort to participate in groups, and blogs, you’ll already have friends when you get there. You don’t even have to have a blog or make things: trust me as a blogger and group facilitator when I tell you we LOVE frequent supportive commenters, and are very excited about meeting them!

How to have an awesome time at Costume College, thedreamstress.com

Hanging out with fellow Historical Sew Fortnightlier Maria

You can also make instant friends by using patterns from the small independent costuming patternmakers, and tutorials from the bloggers, as most of them were at CoCo. I was incredibly delighted whenever someone recognised me from my blog, and even MORE delighted when someone was wearing pocket hoops or stockings or something else from one of my tutorials. I made so many amazing friends because someone came up to me and showed me their legs!

I highly recommend trying to be part of the community online before CoCo, but even without that I don’t think it would be hard to make friends as long as you are willing to try too. The costumes make it really easy for people to come up and talk to you and vice versa.

Worry #4: People will be cliquish and unfriendly.

I’d heard numerous rumours of cliques and drama at Costume College before I went. I did not experience ANYTHING remotely drama-filled or cliquish at CoCo. Everyone was extremely friendly and welcoming. People were a bit shy  at the Thursday night mixer pool party, but by Friday morning everyone was just bouncing up to anyone in costume and telling them how great it was.

Friend-making and getting togethers were happening all the time: I made friends with  people I sat next to in classes and shared excited asides of ‘ooh, I’ve been doing it right’ as the teachers explained things, had breakfast with Cynthia of Redthreaded because we were the only CoCoers in the restaurant (also, because she’s awesome!), got taken out to a dinner for anyone at loose ends the last night, and was invited to sit at three different pre-booked reserved tables on Gala night, because I was walking around trying to find the table I was supposed to be at.

Those examples aren’t because I’m particularly fabulous or people were that excited about meeting me — they are just what happens at Costume College if you’re a little bit friendly and bounce up to lots of people and tell them how wonderful their outfit is, and how much you’ve learned from their blog.

How to have an awesome time at Costume College, thedreamstress.com

Yes, there are a lot of clusters of small groups admiring and talking, and group costume projects that all ‘go’ together, which can look superficially clique-y, but I really don’t think they are because…

The thing to remember about Costume College is that:

  • This is the only time of year that many costumers from across the country and around the world get to see each other, so of course everyone wants to spend time  with friends they haven’t seen in a year. That doesn’t mean they aren’t excited about meeting new ones too, simply that they want to catch up with everyone they already know, and already knowing them can be a bit easier for lots of people because…
  • MANY historical costumers are introverts. I think this is particularly true of costuming bloggers (i.e. the ones who you will recognise and know about beforehand). Blogs allow us to be social and outgoing in very calm, controlled environments. CoCo is wonderful, but a little scary in person, because of all the persons. There were so many costumers who seem outgoing on their blog, and at CoCo I’d find them escaping to back corners, trying to get away from the crowd. This is great because it meant it was really easy to have proper conversations with people in small groups, but I did notice people getting a little shy and quiet when a group got too big, no matter how well they knew every individual member of the group. Be understanding of the introverts. We aren’t quiet because we don’t like you, or don’t want to know you, we’re quiet because there is already too much noise for us.  We hang out in small groups because big groups are too hard, but that doesn’t mean we aren’t still excited about meeting lots of new people, just not all at once.Before Costume College someone posted a meme about fabric and hoopskirts etc.  and ‘these are my people’.  That’s true.  But when I realised  how much of the rest of Costume College was escaping back to their rooms for a few hours a day to decompress I though ‘Aha, these are my people!’
  • From chatting to people in themed costume  groups, and from watching them develop in blogs and Facebook for years, the themed groups aren’t about ‘Let’s do something so that we’re an exclusive group’, they are ‘I love X thing and think it would be fantastic if lots of people did X thing!’  Most of these groups are publicly mentioned/advertised beforehand on FB and in blogs (I know of four being planned for next Costume College, and all are delighted to let you join if you want), and everyone in them is happy to have anyone else in them.  And if you happen to be there  an outfit that fits the theme, without planning, the groups will include you with even more enthusiasm – the Star Wars group was very sad to find out I hadn’t brought my 1950s Jedi Knight/La Pieta with Stormtrooper outfit!

Worry #5: It will be hot and horrible

One of the biggest things that held me back from going to Costume College for years is the fact that it’s held in LA in August. I’m not very good at heat. And I’m even worse at dry heat. And I have perfume and chemical allergies. So a conference in LA, in August, in a hotel, with lots of people, when you’re expected to wear costumes, was scary.

LA was VERY hot this year, but the hotel has very good air conditioning. It not only made super elaborate costumes comfortable, but also did a good job of filtering a lot of the pollutants I’d usually have problems with. I actually didn’t even go outside for two full days, and was fine. Don’t worry about the heat!

How to have an awesome time at Costume College, thedreamstress.com

Perfume was still a problem (if I didn’t come up to you on Gala night and tell you your outfit was amazing, it was either because there were so many amazing outfits I didn’t manage to see them all, or because you were wearing perfume), and I had to leave one class because someone wearing lots sat near me, but if you’re a normal person who hasn’t ended up in the ER because someone drenched in scent sat next to you on a bus, you’ll be fine.

So that’s it – my biggest worries not at all an issue.  If you’ve thought about Costume College, but have held back because some of these worried you, I really encourage you not to.  Everyone is lovely.  The event is fabulous.  You’ll have a wonderful time, and you’ll learn so much.

Now that all my worries about Costume College have been laid to rest, I have a new worry:

#6:  How on earth am I going to be able to afford to do this every year, because it’s SO FANTASTIC!  

How to have an awesome time at Costume College, thedreamstress.com

* I actually found it hilarious how often someone said to me “Oh, I hope you don’t mind, but I’ve been sneaking pictures of you from across the room.”  It’s super sweet that people were so polite and asked, but I also felt that by dressing up at Costume College I had entered into  an  agreement that it was fine to photograph me!