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Rate the Dress: a field of flowers, 1920s style

Last week I showed you a walking dress in blue cotton, with red accessories and a little twist of the exotic.  While many agreed that the moire yoke was out of place (and then again, some of you loved it), and quite a few of you weren’t sure about the red accessories (but, of course, some of you thought they made it!), the overall reaction was positive but not gushing, scoring the dress a very respectable 8.9 out of 10.

It’s really starting to feel like summer here, so I’m suddenly fixated on light silks, high hems, and florals, hence today’s Rate the Dress pick.

This dress features the very simple silhouette of the early-mid 1920s.  It would be an extremely boring frock, if not for the visual interest of the whimsical embroideries of typical summer flowers: red poppies, blue cornflowers, white daisies, and golden wheat or grass sheaves.

The embroideries are framed with scalloped hems and sleeves, anchoring the patterns with four rows of borderings.

Just for this Rate the Dress, I’m going to do something I’ve never done before, and give our frock an accessory, because  look at this:

Hat, 1920-25, probably French, straw and silk, Metropolitan Museum of Art, C.I.45.114.4

Hat, 1920-25, probably French, straw and silk, Metropolitan Museum of Art, C.I.45.114.4

What do you think?  Is the dress  a good  balance of simplicity and pattern?  Do the embroideries and scallops provide the right amount of detail?  And would the hat be just the thing to wear with it, or is it too much?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

Spring Styles for Blouses & Skirts, Feb 1928

Spring is almost over here in the Southern Hemisphere, and winter is well on the way for you in the Northern Hemisphere, but I’m still in love with these spring styles from the February 1928 issue of The Women’s Magazine.

The Women's Magazine, Feb 1928 thedreamstress.com

This is really the moment when vintage fashions become totally wearable in a modern sense.  You could wear any one of these skirts or blouses to the office in NZ today, and no one would blink an eye.  I’m particularly loving 5007, and 9898, because I have a little obsession with 1910s and 20s waistcoat-blouses.

Also of interest is the fabrics they recommend.  Both ‘Rigosil’ and ‘Delysia’ were early rayon fabrics.

Pilot Frixion pens – my newest favourite sewing trick

These are Pilot Frixion pens, and they are my newest favourite sewing toy:

Sewing tips thedreamstress.com

They have been around overseas for a while, but haven’t been available in NZ for that long, so they are a relatively new toy to me.

Pilot designed these as erasable pens: you can write with them, and then use the special eraser end to erase the writing with friction.

Only it’s not really friction that makes the writing disappear.  It’s what friction creates, which is heat.  And that makes them perfect for marking fabric for sewing.

Let me demonstrate!

You start with a plain piece of fabric:

Sewing tips thedreamstress.com

Write on it!

I use my pens for marking darts, pleats, notches, drawing out embroidery designs, marking dots for cartridge pleating: anywhere you want to be able to make a fine, precise line that is going to completely disappear.

For this demonstration, I’m just going to write a slight mis-quote of one of my favourite Katherine Mansfield lines.  The actual quote is “Modern souls oughtn’t to wear them”  with the ‘them’ referring to stays (i.e. corsets – a lovely example of how stays was still used  instead of  corset by many people well into the 20th century)

Sewing tips thedreamstress.com

Writing all over the cloth!  Nice, clear, precise, easily readable writing in a whole host of colours that will stand out on almost every fabric.  So useful as a sewist!

But how to get rid of it so it doesn’t show on the finished project?

Just iron it:

Sewing tips thedreamstress.com

And look!

Sewing tips thedreamstress.com

COMPLETELY gone!

Better than any chalk or fabric marking pen, and more precise and easier to use!

The pens work (to break down the science in to total layman’s terms) because the heat of friction on paper, or of an iron on fabric, heats up the molecules and gets them excited and they move apart and loose the ability to reflect colour.

Because the marks are heat reactive, a funny thing happens if you get them really cold.  For example, put them in the freezer:

Sewing tips thedreamstress.com

20 minutes later the ghost of writing has returned (the Frixion highlighters come back almost at normal):

Sewing tips thedreamstress.com

After two hours in the freezer, the writing is a bit more distinct:

Sewing tips thedreamstress.com

Another iron, and the writing disappears again:

Sewing tips thedreamstress.com

In addition to ironing, you can also make the marking disappear by washing your items in hot water.  If you wash before ironing, the marks are less likely to come back when exposed to extreme cold – ironing them first almost seams to ‘set’ the marks.

I LOVE these things!  Of all the tools I have for marking fabric (basically, all of them) these are the easiest to use, most precise, and most versatile.  Tailors chalk and chalk pencils aren’t that precise, and the chalk pencils are hard to get out.  I’ve had really bad luck with the fade-away pens  refusing to fade away on a variety of fabrics.  Chaco chalk pens are amazing, but super expensive and don’t work for every situation.  These pens are also quite reasonably priced (hence the reason I have two in every colour!).

They do have the minor drawbacks of not being a suitable marker for situations where you are ironing a lot as you work but still need to be able to see the markings, and  having the slight risk of reappearing on a finished item if it gets stuck in below-freezing temperatures for more than 15 minutes, but other than that they are AWESOME.

There is a similar looking erasable pen available in NZ, but they don’t work.  Only these ones.

When I first used them, I was quite worried about some of them not disappearing, or re-appearing, and was very careful to only use them for marking notches on the selvedges and in other places where they could never show on the finished item.  However, I’ve used them quite a bit, and have a number of students using them, and have yet to encounter a fabric or use where they refuse to disappear or do reappear (granted I rarely sew with synthetics or other super-heat sensitive fabrics).

I’d still recommend testing on new fabrics before blithely scrawling the name of each pattern piece across the front of your cut fabric 😉