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Embarking on Elizabethan

Remember last year when I made a late Elizabethan pair of bodies?  And a farthingale?

Now I’m finally tackling a dress to go over them!

The dress is more of my ‘dabbling’ in Elizabethan, so it’s testing concepts rather than being 100% period accurate, and it’s also meant to be all from stash.

Thanks to the fabulous Lynne, I had two huge curtains in red velvet, so that decided the dress fabric.  With red velvet in mind, I went looking for inspiration.  The obvious place to start for construction is  Janet Arnold, and for inspiration, (since it is Elizabethan), portraits of Queen Elizabeth I.

I quite like van der Meulens’ 1560s portrait:

I particularly like the more restrained ruff, and the open effect of the neckline.  And the fact that it’s in red velvet is an added perk!

This portrait by an unknown artist has many of the same general design elements:

I like the idea of separate rather than matching sleeves, a look that is also repeated in the Pelican Portrait:

I am madly in love with her embroidered shirt, but doubt I will ever have the time to recreate it!

There is, of course, the Phoenix portrait, which Arnold helpfully provides a (very, very simple) conjectured pattern for in Patterns of Fashion.

The more I look at the portrait, the more I suspect that Arnold has gotten the sleeves wrong, but it’s still a helpful starting point.

And finally, the last portrait of Elizabeth that I find useful and interesting is Gowers’ Sieve portrait:

Once again, we’ve got lots of delicious red velvet, an open neckline, and contrasting sleeves.  The sleeves are starting to move towards 1580s gargantuanism* (blech), and the ruff is heading towards head on a platter (also blech).

So – conclusions.  There is obviously a lot that I could go into with clothing symbolism in Elizabeths portraits (hey, there are multiple books on it), but, in brief, her portraits reveal I like Elizabethan between 1563 & 1579.

My stays and farthingale are quite formal, so I’m aiming for equally formal in the dress: though not quite Queen status!  I’d like a skirt that can be worn open over a frontpiece, or closed, and sleeve puffs with detachable sleeves, rather than joined (I really need to stop writing posts at 11pm, because my brain starts going to sleep and I forget all the technical terms for everything)

So what have I got so far?

A skirt!

Sewing Elizabethan thedreamstress.com

The skirt shape is based on Eleanora of Toledo’s gown in Arnold.  It’s made from the red velvet, and trimmed with a gold metallic lace.

Sewing Elizabethan thedreamstress.com

I’d bought a couple of full rolls  of vintage jacquard woven trim specifically for this at fabric-a-brac, but they didn’t look good on the velvet, so I went for the gold (which was originally bought for Ninon, but didn’t look good on the yellow…).  The massive drawback to the gold lace is that it all had to be hand-sewn down.

6 hours of hand-sewing later…

The skirt is hemmed and faced with the same gilt linen I made the pair of bodies with:

Sewing Elizabethan thedreamstress.com

To go under the skirt, I’ve made a front part:

Sewing Elizabethan thedreamstress.com

The shape is based on the front part in Arnold, but this is definitely historical accuracy lite: it’s entirely finished with bias binding.

Sewing Elizabethan thedreamstress.com

Isn’t the fabric fabulous?  I inherited it from Nana, and as soon as I saw it I thought ‘that would make something fabulous and Elizabethan.”  It’s been sitting in my stash for 5 and a half years, waiting for me to sew Elizabethan.  It’s good to be finally putting it to use!

I have exactly enough of Nana’s brown and gold brocade to make a pair of sleeves out of (below you can see my pattern mock-up of Arnold’s conjecture of the sleeves of the Phoenix portrait, which I now think are inaccurate).  I’m not sure about the accuracy of matching sleeves + forepart, so those may not happen…

Sewing Elizabethan thedreamstress.com

This weekend is going to be devoted to constructing and trimming the bodice.  I’ve got a basic foundation made, I just need to do eyelets, and then attach skirt, cover and trim.

Sewing Elizabethan thedreamstress.com

Oh, and sew lace on the hem edge of a ruff, which (even when done by machine) is quickly becoming one of my least favourite tasks ever.

Sewing Elizabethan thedreamstress.com

So, if blog posts become a bit scanty in the next few weeks, you know what I’ll be doing!

* Have you noticed that they make her arms look exactly like some sort of disgusting maggot or grub-worm?

Camisoles thedreamstress.com3

Making my own camisoles

UPDATE:    Want to make your own singlet camisoles  from my pattern?  You can now buy the  Wonder Unders Pattern  (which includes knickers & slip) through my pattern line: Scroop Patterns.  Get it here!

The empire of things that I am making for myself because trying to buy them makes me too grumpy is expanding…

I’ve already developed a pattern to make my own sewn-not-knitted socks/stockings (OK, so I still buy most of my everyday pairs, but the idea is sound!).  And I make my own knickers.

And now, camisoles (or as they say in NZ, singlets):

Camisoles thedreamstress.com3

Actually, come to think of it, I’ve been doing this one longer than either of those.  It’s just that my first three years worth of  singlets were boring black or boring white, so not really worth showing!

Buying singlets drives me absolutely batty.  In Wellington your singlet choices are pretty much Glassons (but I hate the way theirs fit), Bendon (ditto), Kirkaldies (too expensive), Cotton On (OK, but rather poorly made and even though they get pretty good ethics ratings for a high street shop, I’m still not comfortable with their labour practices) and Farmers.

All but the last  involve either going to a mall (my life goals include never setting foot in a mall again) or parking in the CBD (major hassle).  I used to get mine at Farmers, because you could go to Farmers in Kilbirnie (a suburb) and parking is free and easy.  Plus, as long as you’re in Kilbirnie you can go to Wellington Sewing Services, and Stitchbird, and three awesome op-shops, and it’s totally worth the trip!

But now I’m boycotting Farmers, because    Farmers Kilbirnie persists in putting their lingerie section in a corner of the store that is all glass, and fronts right on to the sidewalk.  So as you try to pick unders, the whole world watches you.  Or at least the part of the world that hangs out in a dead corner of Kilbirnie, watching people pick lingerie, and let me tell you, it is NOT a happy experience.

For over 5 years now I’ve been complaining to Farmers Kilbirnie about the fact that the ONLY part of the store that you can look into from outside is women’s underwear, and every time I do they say “Oh, we know, it’s terrible, we’re so sorry about it, we’re working on a solution.”   Sometimes they say they are looking into view blocking screens.  But it’s been five years, and nothing has changed.  You know what an easy solution would be?  PUT A DIFFERENT SECTION OF THE STORE IN THAT CORNER.  Like housewears.  Mens clothing.  Kids clothing.  The twee gift stuff.  Even women’s clothing.  Anything but lingerie!

So anyway, I’m now totally boycotting Farmers, because even if it doesn’t change anything, at least it means I don’t have to pick out bras and camisoles while being ogled by the guy with the ‘Spare Change’ sign.  (the fact that I voluntarily choose to share the ones I make on this blog is an entirely different thing – it’s a choice, and most of you reading are doing so for sewing interest!).

So, with no camisole supplier, I make myself lots of boring white and black camisoles, and the occasional exciting ones, like these:

Camisoles thedreamstress.com1

The fabric is a Karen Walker print, and (in case you can’t see) it has paisley whales.

Paisley whales!

Also, it’s buttery soft and delicious and super fun to work with.  And I got so excited about it that I bought about 6 meters, so I’m set for paisley whale knickers and camisoles sets for the next decade of my life!

Camisoles thedreamstress.com4

I based the pattern of my favourite camisoles, tweaking the fit till I had it exactly where I wanted.  I even make versions with built-in bralets, which theoretically could be used for days when it is too hot to wear a bra, but since it is Wellington, really get used for days when every single additional layer between you and the outside world helps.

Camisoles thedreamstress.com5

Since this is Wellington, I wear these a LOT.  They go under merino layers every single day of winter, to cut down on wool irritation, and in spring (and, lets face it, half of summer) having an additional layer or two under your T-shirt or blouse is helpful too.

Camisoles thedreamstress.com2

I like that I can make these with materials entirely from locally owned businesses (Fabric Warehouse and Made on Marion), and that they cut down just a little bit more on our reliance on sweatshops.  And they are fun and quick and satisfying to make.

And that is pretty much everything remotely interesting I can think of to say about camisoles!

Rate the Dress: 1890s Puffed sleeves and stripes

Oh my, oh my…last week’s daisy decorated dress…!  Well.  I don’t think we’ll ever have another dress that will be compared to 1) a hornet’s nest, 2) a skin disease, 3) flaccid jellyfish parts, 4) potato chips, 5) zits waiting to be popped, 6) 1930s costume design for 1820 (for an original 1820 dress), 7) 1820s does 1860s, 8) B movie mad-scientist created things, 9) Daleks.

Yes.  Daleks.

Oh, but lots of you still love it and gave it a 10!

I guess it depends on whether you have  trypophobia  or not (the amazing things we all learn with RTD!)

So the overall verdict for the potentially creep-inducing dress? 6.9 out of 10 (which is what happens when you have a dress that a lot of people love, and a lot of people hate).

(I, by the way, totally loved it, and if I didn’t have to sleep I would recreate it!  Even at the risk of creeping everyone out).

This week I’m going to avoid any potential trim & embellishment issues by showing a dress that basically has no trim.

When you see ‘Day dress in striped cotton’, you assume the garment will be quite informal, but this  outfit uses unusual fabrics and colours, and a combination of almost severe cuts and fashionable excess to take a cotton frock well away from ‘knock around the house’ territory.

This day dress is made from a heavy black cotton with raised lines of red and yellow stripes, which create a changeable, almost shot effect to the fabric.

The dressmaker has made full use of the stripes, arranging them in chevrons down the front and back of the bodice, and running them through the huge leg’o’mutton sleeves (Anne would love them!) so that they form another chevron on the inside of the arm.

To make the cotton fabric even more formal, it’s been paired with a black velvet at neck, cuffs, and waist.  Sadly, the original velvet from the waist and neck has been replaced with blue velvet at some point, and in the process the original back pleats of the waist have been re-done, and not to the dresses benefit.

What do you think?  Does the dress do a good job of combining simplicity and extravagance, in fabric, colours, and cut?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10