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A lucky sixpence hussif (and what are hussuf or housewives)

What is a hussif thedreamstress.com

Last week I stopped by one of my favourite op-shops between errands, and had a rummage in their $3 fill-a-bag fabric bin.  I didn’t find any fabric, but I did find something even better.

This:

A vintage housewife thedreamstress.com

This is a hussif, hussuf, hussy, huswif, hussive or housewife (so, basically any way you can spell a contraction of housewife).

A hussuf is a  fabric case for carrying all your sewing implements.  The most common form is a long rectangle of padded fabric that rolls up into a small packet, so that you can easily take all your sewing bits with you everywhere.

A vintage hussuf thedreamstress.com1

A 1910s dictionary describes it as:

Husszf, that is, house-wife; a roll of flannel with a pin-cushion attached, used for the purpose of holding pins, needles, and thread

The term housewife (and its derivatives) for a sewing kit dates back to the mid-18th century.

The many variants  of housewife are theorised to have originated in the regional dialect of Lancashire:  during the 18th and 19th century the port of Lancaster was one of the busiest in England (heavily involved in the slave trade, among other things).  Sailors had to do their own mending, and had to be able to easily carry all their own goods, so housewifes were perfect for their lifestyle.  Many sailors came from Lancashire, and other sailors picked up the local term for the kits from them, or when they visited the port.

While women certainly carried and used them, housewifes are most associated with sailors and  soldiers.  We know that soldiers on both sides of the conflict brought their own kits in the American Civil War.  An 1855 investigation into  the poor performance of the  British army in  the Crimean war pointed out that the Russian soldiers all carried hussifs, and that if the English army had done the same, English soldiers would not have been  in rags at Sevastapol.  In  WWI and WWII  they were popular items for women’s sewing groups to make to include in care packages.  Patriotic councils provided guidelines for the appropriate housewife to best fit the soldiers.  According to one newspaper report, almost 50,000 kits were made and/or filled by ‘hussif groups’ between 1940 and 1944.

While military and naval housewives were probably quite functional, there were also prettier housewives for less strenuous use.    The pages who attended on Prinny were supplied in 1789 with a “striped silk Housewife filled with coloured silks, thread, needles & thimbles” presumably so they could assist if the Prince had any  urgent wardrobe malfunctions.  Over a century later, and slightly less factually, Barrie’s Wendy has a housewife which she produces  to sew Peter Pan’s shadow to his foot.  Most were probably homemade, but they could also be purchased commercially.

Housewives were common throughout the mid 18th and 19th centuries, and into the first half of the 20th.  They were standard issue for British soldiers until after WWII (that 1855 report must have had some effect), and there are at least a few stories of soldiers carrying them in the Vietnam War.  Along with the military  using them in their original sense, as transportable sewing kits, many modern sewist still make their own housewives.

I’m not sure how old my kit is: the  outer fabrics and satin are no older than the  1940s, but it’s in very good condition and doesn’t appear to have had much use.  Unless it was made with entirely vintage materials, right down to the cardstock of the scissor holder, it’s not a modern piece.

A vintage housewife thedreamstress.com

It’s got a cunning gathered pocket:

A vintage housewife thedreamstress.com

And a perfectly fitted holder for a pair of scissors:

A vintage housewife thedreamstress.com

And a beautifully embroidered pincushion:A vintage housewife thedreamstress.com

And a wee little pocket, possibly for a thimble:

A vintage housewife thedreamstress.com

And  what I suspect is a bodkin holder:

A vintage housewife thedreamstress.com

Plus a buttoned pocket, and a bit of fabric for holding threaded needles, all covered with beautifully enthusiastic, if not necessarily particularly skilful, embroidery.

A vintage housewife thedreamstress.com

It also had three delicious secrets.

I bought the housewife just because I thought it was too wonderful to pass on, but when I got it home, I realised there were lumps in two of the pockets.

The first lump revealed itself to be a teeny-tiny cunning measuring tape.  I’ve never seen one like it.  You twist the sides to scroll the tape in and out, and can twist the numbers on either side (presumably to record the measurement while you work with it, so you don’t forget?)

A vintage housewife thedreamstress.com

The measuring tape is Made in England, and in inches.

The other secret is even better, and I missed it at first, and only noticed it when I was checking all the pockets to photograph them.

The buttoned pocket had a flat lump of paper in it, which I initially thought was just scrap.  But I unfolded it, and it revealed two NZ sixpences:

A vintage housewife thedreamstress.com

One from 1934, and one from 1937:

A vintage housewife thedreamstress.com

What a find!  I’d love to know the story behind it!

Rate the Dress: Tassels, pleats, and pockets on an 1870s bustle

Last week I showed you an 18th century menswear ensemble, just making the transition from Rococo peacock to Regency Beau.  Reactions to the ensemble were quite mixed: you  though the colours were the perfect balance of interest/hated them and thought them boring, adored the mix of pattern coordinating without matching/thought it clashed terrible, loved the slightly wacky hat and big buttons for the pop they gave the outfit/found the hat and buttons utterly awful and cartoonish.  Still, most of you really liked it (I think it’s just SO MUCH BETTER than most modern menswear (though we’re getting better) that it’s hard not to at least like it somewhat, so it came in at 7.8 out of 10.

This week we’re going from slightly wacky menswear, to slightly wacky womenswear – with a little menswear inspiration.

This mid-1870s bustle dress  has a hint of militaria and menswear tailoring in the bodice,  combined with the 1870s bustle silhouette at the height of excess trimmings.  The dress features not only a fascinating bit of centre back trim, elaborate jacket pleats, heavily fringed layers of skirt, an asymmetrical bustle, three-dimensional turn-back pleating at the hem, but also the height of ridiculous/whimsical 1870s skirt ornamentation: a parasol pocket.  For those moments when it’s so much handier to tuck your parasol into a pocket than carry it, of course.

Sadly the MFA does not provide an image of the front of the dress, so you’ll have to rate it based on what you can see from the back.  Do you find it  charmingly whimsical, or laughably ridiculous?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

A sewing secrets lace 1900s blouse

This is a the tale of a serendipitous sewing secret…

When we’d decided on an ‘Anne of Green Gables’ theme for our Pukekura Park dress ups and photoshoot, I knew costuming ‘Priscilla’ was going to be a bit tricky.  She’s petite, and I’m tall, and most of my outfits are made to fit me.

I was super busy the whole week before the our trip, but figured I had plenty of white voile, and could make a simple white voile Wearing History Edwardian blouse in an evening.

And then, late Thursday, I popped into an op-shop while waiting on a print job, and got lucky: I found an amazing lace tablecloth that I thought would be perfect for a blouse.  It had flowers, and scallops, and greek key meanders, and was simply marvellous.  However it was stained, and they wanted $3 which I thought was pricey for a small, stained, tablecloth, and it was a cash-only op-shop, and I had  only $3 in cash, and they had a couple of sewing patterns I also wanted…

But I sucked it up, passed on the patterns, and bought it and hoped…

I took it home and threw it in a Napi-San bath to soak overnight.  In the morning, I washed it, and draped it on the drying rack over the dehumidifier, because the weather was foul and we don’t have a dryer.

And then I ran around the house like a mad thing packing everything else three girls need to dress up in 1900s garb, and everything I would need for a three day weekend, and making dinner, and re-shaping hats, and trying to do a bit of tidying.

Every once in a while I peered at the tablecloth and and rotated it to maximise drying.

Finally, around 4, it was dry, so I spread it out on a piece of very white fabric, and found that while the spots had faded, there were still quite a few visible  stains.  So I carefully marked them with pins, and  rearranged and fiddled with the pattern pieces until I found a layout that was not only mark free, but awesome.

A lace 1900s blouse thedreamstress.com

Seriously, how impressive is that?

Then I cut the lining, finished the lining interiors, and flat lined the whole thing, just in time for ‘Stella’ to show up for a pre-road trip sleepover.  Together we assembled the blouse, set in the sleeves, finished the neckline, hemmed everything, picked buttons, and worked buttonholes on it.  We also shortened Priscilla’s  skirt, assembled three hats, hemmed my skirt, and worked buttonholes in my skirt.

And then we collapsed into bed!

The day of the photoshoot we made Priscilla sew on the buttons (while I sewed buttons on my skirt and Stella and I trimmed hats) – so she also contributed to it.

There is even a cute, serendipitous story about the buttons.  We picked 10 small white plastic buttons  from my stash for the blouse – they were small, unobtrusive, and uninspiring, but the best I found in a quick rummage in my button box.  I almost forgot them in packing, and Stella said “Don’t worry, we’d find some in an op shop on the way up” and I said “There is NO way we’d find enough buttons in the right size just by chance”

Yep. You guessed it.  I found a whole bag of buttons for $2, with multiple choices of vintage shell buttons that fit perfectly!

A lace 1900s blouse thedreamstress.com

Very serendipitous all round!

Also, the shirt fit Priscilla perfectly (I completely just guessed, and graded  between sizes all over the pattern).

And she’s madly in love with it, as is Stella, who desperately wants me to sell it to her (and she hasn’t even tried it on!).  Stella’s out of luck, but I am keeping my eye out for another tablecloth for her.

 

A lace 1900s blouse thedreamstress.com

The blouse is a combination of the Wearing History Edwardian blouse, and the Wearing History Edwardian corset cover – I shortened the blouse at the drawstring line, and used the peplum from the corset cover below that, for more controlled front gathers, and less bulk under the skirt.  I also modified the sleeve shape to best take advantage of the fabric’s motifs.

A lace 1900s blouse thedreamstress.com

She’s wearing the blouse with a skirt that the marvelous Lynne made for Lady Bracknell in the production of the Importance of Being Ernest that was also responsible for the wonderful 1900s Greek Key Dress.  We had to shorten the skirt a good 5″ for Miss Priscilla, but she looked fabulous in it, and it can easily be let out again.

A lace 1900s blouse thedreamstress.com

The Challenge: Sewing Secrets

What’s the Secret?: The blouse is made from a vintage lace tablecloth.

Fabric: A vintage cotton lace tablecloth ($3), cotton voile lining ($2)

Pattern: Wearing History’s Edwardian Blouse pattern, modified for an earlier pigeon breast look, with modified sleeves

Year: ca. 1905

Notions: vintage shell buttons (50 cents), bias binding (50 cents)

How historically accurate is it?: The pattern and construction are perfectly accurate, the motifs and overall look of the lace are reasonable, but of course using a tablecloth isn’t

Hours to complete: 6 man hours

First worn: Sun 25th October, for an Anne of Green Gables inspired photoshoot in New Plymouth’s Pukekura Park

Total cost: $6