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Rate the Dress: 1860s florals

Last week I showed you an unknown Italian woman in pink and ivory with gold.  While late Renaissance fashions aren’t always the most popular, you felt that this was the best possible variant of the silhouette (though you were a bit squicked out as to the probable point of the portrait – to advertise the marriageability of the very young lady).

(I’ll get the tallied score up shortly – I’m currently occupied cuddling Felicity, and I can’t add them up without kicking her off my lap 😉

UPDATE: And, now, the score!  Despite a few people who really didn’t like the dress (and possibly disliked it even more because everyone else loved it, because that’s how the human brain works ;-)), and a few high scores that I had to ignore because they were weird fractions (I’m sorry!  Please spare my poor brain and keep your ratings to whole or half scores!  Adding up gets far too complicated if I have  to deal with 7.3 and 5.6s!)  our lady was pretty in pink with 8.7 out of 10.

This day dress from the Indianapolis Museum of Art features a sleek silhouette, and a very busy floral print.

Dress, American, 1860s, wool, silk, cotton, metal, plastic, Indianapolis Museum of Art 2007.761

Dress, American, 1860s, wool, silk, cotton, metal, plastic, Indianapolis Museum of Art 2007.761

The intricate print, with swags of spirea and mock orange, and vivid colours of the wool challis are testament to the advances in both dye and print technology happening in the 1850s & 60s (dye & print innovations other than aniline dye, because while this print is very bright, this shade of blue was achieved with natural indigo rather than a synthetic dye until the advent of synthetic indigo in the 1890s).

Dress, American, 1860s, wool, silk, cotton, metal, plastic, Indianapolis Museum of Art 2007.761

Dress, American, 1860s, wool, silk, cotton, metal, plastic, Indianapolis Museum of Art 2007.761

The fabric would have been quite exciting and novel when the dress was first made, and the dressmaker has kept the focus on the fabric of the dress, with few  design details to compete with it.

Dress, American, 1860s, wool, silk, cotton, metal, plastic, Indianapolis Museum of Art 2007.761

Dress, American, 1860s, wool, silk, cotton, metal, plastic, Indianapolis Museum of Art 2007.761

The only ornamentation is the scalloped edges of the double-layered pagoda sleeves, finished with blue piping.

Dress, American, 1860s, wool, silk, cotton, metal, plastic, Indianapolis Museum of Art, 2007.761

Dress, American, 1860s, wool, silk, cotton, metal, plastic, Indianapolis Museum of Art, 2007.761

The same blue piping is used on the back seams of the bodice, and to define the line between the fitted bodice and tightly pleated skirt.

Dress, American, 1860s, wool, silk, cotton, metal, plastic, Indianapolis Museum of Art, 2007.761

Dress, American, 1860s, wool, silk, cotton, metal, plastic, Indianapolis Museum of Art, 2007.761

Interestingly, the dress description includes plastic as one of the materials used, indicating that either the dress utilised the first plastic, Parkesine, which was briefly available in the 1860s; the dress was altered with more modern materials at some point; or simply that someone cataloguing the dress got a little confused about their materials list (which definitely does happen!)

Dress, American, 1860s, wool, silk, cotton, metal, plastic, Indianapolis Museum of Art, 2007.761

Dress, American, 1860s, wool, silk, cotton, metal, plastic, Indianapolis Museum of Art, 2007.761

What do you think of the frock?  Does the simplicity of cut balance the elaborateness of the fabric, or did the dress need a lot more details to tone down the print?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10.

Wonder Unders

UPDATE:  Want to make your own Wonder Unders?  You can now buy the knickers pattern (along with a singlet camisole and slip pattern) through my pattern line: Scroop Patterns.  Get it here!

Superheroes are awesome.

Is there anyone ever  who hasn’t wanted to be a superhero?  Or played at being a superhero?

I know I have and this is despite the fact that I made it to adulthood without ever having read a single superhero comic,* seen a single episode of a superhero TV show, or watched a single superhero movie.

Despite this, I somehow knew about superheros, and, of course, their costumes.   The salient points being they wear 1) capes, and 2)  underwear on the outside.

As a kid I was extremely envious of my older sister, because someone had made her a red superhero cape with her initial on it, and I didn’t have a cape.  Much later, she made me a cape…out of crazy cat lady fabric (it had photorealistic cat heads completely covering it).

Not quite the same… (but I still loved it, because c’mon, crazy cat lady cape?  How could you not!)

I never did the underwear on the outside thing though, and (other than wearing actual historical underwear in public) I’m a bit old for it now.  That doesn’t mean I don’t want superhero undies though!

Enter, the Wonder Unders!

Wonder Unders thedreamstress.com3

 

Made out of incredibly buttery soft brown cotton knit  with gold sparkles (so sparkly!) and bound in sparkly silver foldable elastic binding (a present from the lovely Sewphist) they are the perfect hidden disguise for my superhero alter ego….

Hedgehog Girl!  

(Abilities include rescuing hedgehogs, being adorable, being prickly, rolling into a ball and ignoring the world, poking people I don’t like)

Wonder Unders thedreamstress.com1

 

The fabric was from Global Fabrics some 4 or 5 years ago, and was left over from an unsuccessful T-shirt dress that I made with it.  Somewhere I think I still have the T-shirt dress, and when I find it, there will be more…!

(maniacal hedgehog laughter)

Wonder Unders thedreamstress.com2

 

I ran out of silver binding before I ran out of fabric, so I finished  the last pair in less exciting picot elastic.

Obviously I’m only going to wear these for special occasions, when I need to channel the extraordinary  powers of Hedgehog Girl.

And, as a bonus, a pair of stunt unders for The Amazing Owless:

Wonder Unders thedreamstress.com4

 

They are stunt unders because the fabric is AWESOME, but totally unsuitable for actual wear (no recovery, a tendency to pill), so I made them as a demonstration piece during a class, and will keep them for teaching, because obviously I can’t show students actual unders.

But they have an owl on the bum, so someone needs to see them!

*Unless Calvin’s Stupendous Man counts.

** The original Unders post, if you’re wondering about the pattern, how I make them, etc.

Five for Friday: Pet Peeves

A few months ago I shared five things I love (that many people find weird), which started quite an interesting discussion.  And yay, I discovered lots of other people who like sardines!  (mmmm…sardines…and cardboard crackers….)

This week I thought I’d share five of my pet peeves with you: completely random things that I find inordinately annoying/cringe worthy/disgusting:

1) Orange juice.

OK, not orange juice as a whole.  Orange juice is fine if A) it’s being served with breakfast, or B) you’re under 10 years old.   Even then, it’s not the best juice.  Orange juice, however, is NOT fine if you’re at a black tie event and everyone else is walking around with champagne and you ask for something non-alcoholic and they say “Oh, we have orange juice.”

Seriously?  Orange juice?

Is it before noon?  Am I five years old?

No?

Then why are you offering me orange juice?

Orange juice is brightly coloured (thus making it super obvious you are not drinking, which has tons of drawbacks), has pulp, and is incredibly acidic, making it hard to drink more than one glass.  It is NOT a good drink alternative.

There are SO many better non-alcoholic options for drinks.  They make sparkling grape juice exactly for that purpose.  Mineral water is nice.  A really good cordial?  Or better yet, a good cordial in sparkling water (rhubarb and ginger cordial in sparkling water is just about the epitome of drink perfection).  Non alcoholic punch is awesome.  Gingerbeer is perfectly acceptable.  So is lemonade – real or NZ style (as in, Sprite).  Heck, I even drank a Coke at a US Embassy reception because I was so excited that it wasn’t orange juice.  And most of these options are even cheaper than orange juice!

Because orange juice is, for some demented reason (which was definitely not thought up by someone who has ever tried to subsist on orange juice for a 5 hour event where they didn’t even offer plain water!) the non-alcoholic drink of choice at NZ events.  I have been to SO MANY museum receptions, balls, university events, and corporate parties that offer four kinds of wine…and orange juice.

And water, if you are really lucky.

And in the afternoon or evening, when you are all dressed up and probably haven’t been able to have dinner yet, orange juice sucks.  I’ve got about as much respect for a caterer who would serve orange juice as their teetotaller option as I have for a seamstress who doesn’t iron.

2)  Centipedes.  

One of my ‘loves’ was spiders.  And it’s true.  I’m pretty much OK with all animals in a general sense – there are individual dogs and goats and horses I don’t like, but on a whole, I’m an animal lover.  Mice are cute and even feral rats, whole gross, don’t make me squeal.  Most creepy crawlies I find cute.

Except centipedes.  Those suckers need to die.

Or at least be banished to an uninhabited island that no human will ever visit*.

I’ve got a personal reason for hating centipedes.  They have them in Hawaii, and I was bit a number of times growing up, all while sleeping.

Do you know what a centipede bite feels like?  Like you’ve been stabbed and hammered and it burns.  For days.  Deep in your flesh.  And you swell, and swell.  And the flesh gets so hot that someone who isn’t expecting it who puts their hand on the area near the bite will pull their hand back as if they had touched a hot iron.  It’s bad.

I’ve got three  small, round, white, hard scars on my arms from centipede bites, and muscle and nerve damage above one eye where one bit me on my face.  Most of the time it’s OK, but when I’m really cold or tired or stressed the muscles can’t keep up.  I was pretty philosophical about the first few bites, but after the face incident centipedes and I were over.

* And while I don’t hate them, it would be nice if the centipedes would take all the mosquitos with them to the uninhabited island when they go.

3)  Perfume (and stores & airports that force you to smell it)

I don’t like perfume.  Most of it stinks to me, and most of it gives me migraines (and the chance of migraines is enough to discourage me from attempting to find the perfumes I don’t hate, and that don’t cause me migraines).

I know I’m far from the only one, because ‘Ugh, there was this person in the lift/airplane/meeting/bus who smelled like a chemical bomb’ is a pretty common story.  Teaching classes you hear a lot of small talk, and that one comes up a LOT.  As does “I cross the road so I don’t have to walk right in front of Lush” as the invariable follow-up story by another student (get any six random females in Wellington and ask them if they do this and I guarantee at least one of out of six will, every time!).

So it totally confuses me that not only is it socially acceptable to make your smell a public thing (Smells are personal.  They should be private.  Like underwear), but stores seem to think its a good thing.  Department stores put their perfume section right by the front door, so you have to walk through it to do any shopping.  And Wellington airport had this cunning idea to make you walk through the Duty Free perfume section every time you get off an international flight here.  I have to walk through with a scarf wrapped around my face and my inhaler clutched in my hand – just in case.

Gross.

I’d rather walk through the laundry while all the airport staff washed their underwear.

4) First person bios

All conference/magazine bios should be written in third person.  I just cringe when I’m at a conference or reading a magazine and the bios are in first person.  It just seems so amateur & unprofessional.  First person is for interview answers, memoirs, and blogs (which are basically just incredibly recent memoirs).  Otherwise first person bios are dorky and amateur.

5) Ummm…well…I’m out!  

There are quite a few more things that I dislike, but none obvious enough to make the list.  You can fill one in for me 😉