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The Word’s Enchanted Island Playground: A vintage Hawaiian holiday

Continuing on my ‘let’s escape from winter!‘ theme, let’s go on a vintage Hawaiian holiday.

One of the fascinating things I discovered in researching in old magazines in New Zealand is how early Hawaiian holidays from New Zealand were advertised.  This advertisement for the Union Steam Ships Hawaiian holiday sailings appeared in the New Zealand Home magazine in 1932:

A Hawaiian escape thedreamstress.com1

It might be 1932, it might be the middle of the Great Depression, your holiday might be 6 weeks long, but there was enough of a market to advertise it!

It’s fascinating to see what the ad features: a bit of ‘Old Hawaii’ (looks like they are making poi!), surfing (made popular around the world by actor and Olympian Duke Kahanamoku), the beaches, the famous statue of King Kamehameha the Great in front of AliÊ»iōlani  Hale (now the state Supreme Court), Akaka  Falls, pineapple pickers (Dole’s tinned pineapple advertisements of the ’30s focused heavily on Hawaii, so this makes more sense in context), some tropical flowers (Hylocerius Undatus), Diamond Head, and, of course, Waikiki beach and the Pink Palace of the Pacific itself: the Royal Hawaiian Hotel.

For some further eye-candy, here is a (very sweet and innocent) pin-up from a 1945 magazine promoting Hawaii  in the post-WWII era:

A Hawaiian escape thedreamstress.com1

I’d like to be where the Trade Winds blow…

The HSF/M: Favourites for Challenge #4: War & Peace

There was a big drop-off in submissions for the HSM War & Peace challenge.  Either the novelty wore off for some people after the first three  challenges, the theme was too obscure, or it’s just a really busy time of year.  Still, the submissions there were were fabulous, and hopefully  people will regain their enthusiasm and we’ll see a surge in entries for future challenges.

Not surprisingly, there were more entries tied to war’s influence on fashion than peace’s influence on fashion, but there was a fascinating spread of historical fashion from both ends of the spectrum.  While there weren’t as many entries, there were some of my favourite entries of anything made so far this year, simply because of the research and history and new things I discovered.  (and it’s become one of my favourite challenges personally because I finally had the excuse to make a dazzle swimsuit!  Cue major excitement!  Plus a 1940s dress and WWI era  skirt – super productive month for me!).

In picking items to showcase I’ve chosen the items that tell a story, that demonstrate research and knowledge and help spread understanding, and that I thought best represent the spirit of the challenge itself, and of the Historical Sew Fortnightly/Monthly as a whole; the quest to explore history, raise our skill levels and standard as creators and historians, stretch our comfort zones, and occasionally, just to get something finished.

As always happens, there were dozens of items I thought were fabulous that I couldn’t show off, so do have a stroll over to the blog post and the FB page  (yep, you do have to be a member to see it, yep, if you ask to be a member we’re going to ask you some questions, and yep, it might take us a few days to answer, but if you are really interested in the HSF, as a participant or active cheerleader, we’d LOVE to have you) to check them out.

And now, on to the intellectual stimulation and prettiness!  Entries with photos link to FB, entries without link to the blog post of the maker.

  1. Cate’s 1944 Eisenhower Jacket.  A great piece that I would love to have in my wardrobe, and a total favourite for the fact that it is the perfect illustration of the challenge – the garment was directly inspired by Eisenhower’s wardrobe and his fame as a result of WWII.
    4 Cate's 1944 Eisenhower jacket
  2. Karin’s 1910s bust confiner  this is a rarely replicated piece of costume history based on extent examples and advertisements that might fit  Karin’s own needs and  an extrapolation on the needs of women entering the workforce during WWI.  Really cool!
    4 Karin's 1910's bust confiner HSF War & Peace Challenge thedreamstress.com
  3. Juliana’s 1807-1820  military inspired spencer.   Great inspiration pieces, research and construction all came together in a gorgeous spencer.  I love it!  
  4. Blumen und Ferden’s boy’s sailor shirt.  A great garment, but mostly amazing for her fascinating exploration of the way the sailor suit transitions from a cross-national peacetime garment to a patriotic wartime garment and back again a number of times.
  5. Michaela’s sheer 1860s gown:  a beautiful, beautiful garment, and a great write up on the way the South’s dominance of cotton production was used as a political tool in the Civil War.

For the rest of the favourites posts see:

Favourites for Challenge #3: Stashbusting

Favourites for  Challenge #2: Blue

Favourites for  Challenge #1: Foundations

Rate the Dress: Trendy 1820s

Last week I showed you a late 1880s Worth gown in blond  lace and creamy pink feather patterned brocade.  A few of you loved it, but most of you felt it was pretty ‘meh’ for the 1880s.  As for me, there were some things about the dress that I love SO MUCH (the brocade!  the sleeves! that bustle) that I both struggled to see beyond the things that weren’t well done (ugh.  that lace swag.  And the weird awkward level of the brocade line on the bodice) and hated them all the more for ruining the potential.  Not surprisingly, the frock only came in at a 6.8 out of 10.  Try harder Jean-Phillipe!

This week’s dress is like a sample of all the things that were ‘on trend’ (humble apologies) in the later 1810s & 1820s.

It’s the classic all-white frock, with a bit of military-inspired (maybe with a hint of Renaissance historicism)  lacing up the front.  There is more Renaissance inspired historicism in the puffed sleeves with ‘slashed’ inspired lace.  The neckline is classically influenced, taking it’s aesthetics  from ancient Greek & Roman styles.  The bottom of the dress features the classic hem interest of the ’20s, with gathered pick-ups and bobble buttons over a layer of the newly fashionable broderie anglaise.

The museum has accessorised the dress with a paisley shawl – far from the newest thing in 1820, but still quite a fashionable, high-status garment.

What do you think? Do you like the eclectic influences of the frock? Do they add interest to the plain white dress, or just make it silly? And is the paisley shawl a nice touch of colour, or too much of a clash?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10