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The Anzac Day Wearing History 1916 skirt

April 25, Anzac Day, honouring anyone who has served in New Zealand’s armed forces, is probably  New Zealand’s most widely commemorated holiday.

Waitangi  Day is just awkward and slightly anger or guilt inducing. Almost everyone does something for Christmas, but New Zealand is a mainly secular nation, and few people really celebrate or commemorate it.  Boxing Day is an excuse for sales, Guy Fawkes an excuse for fireworks, and New Years an excuse to get drunk (or set off fireworks – hopefully not both!). Easter is just a really awesomely long weekend – with the benefit or drawback of closed shops, depending on your views.

But Anzac Day is marked by almost everyone I know, regardless of their religion, politics, ethnicity, or age.  Every news presenter, shop assistant, and person on the street wears a poppy, and almost everyone I know has, at least once, gotten up to go to the dawn service, if they don’t make an annual event of it.  Sporting events in New Zealand and Australia have moments of silence before the game, and often  play the national anthems of both countries – even when it is two home teams.

This year Anzac Day was a bigger event than ever, because it’s the 100th anniversary of the day the Australia and New Zealand Army Corps (ANZAC) landed on the Gallipoli peninsula to try to capture it from the Ottoman Empire.  In 1915 New Zealand had been a Dominion for less than a decade, and Australia for just over a decade, and both countries were keen to prove their Britishness.  William Massey, then Prime Minister of New Zealand told England  “All we are and all we have is at the disposal of the British Government.”

Almost 3,000 Kiwi men (out of a population of just over a million  in 1915), and 8,000 Australian men lost their lives in just one month of the Gallipoli Campaign.  Overall, approximately 18,000 Kiwis would die in the war, and a further  40,000 would be wounded.

The Gallipoli campaign, and the entirety of WWI, were hugely influential in shaping New Zealand’s national identity and history.  Not only did New Zealand participate in major global politics on a large scale as a country for the first time, but the country lost a whole generation of young men.

And this is where I struggle with Anzac Day ever so slightly.  It’s been so long since the war, and so long since New Zealand officially participated in a war (participation in Afghanistan being covered by euphemisms like ‘training’ and ‘peacekeeping’), that too many people have forgotten how horrible and dumb it was.  Anzac Day memorials and mentions  sometimes (emphasis on the sometimes – as in ‘occasionally’, as in ‘definitely not the norm, but a very small percentage’) stray from commemoration to celebration and glorification.  There is nothing there to celebrate for me.  Even WWII, and other wars that were not illogical and pointless like  WWI, were not glorious.

Just as bad, people who point out the stupidity of WWI, or the utter waste of human life, are accused of being unpatriotic (or worse).  As soon as we fail to allow dissenting viewpoints, we’re falling into the exact group that we claim we send our soldiers to fight against.

What did we send our soldiers to fight for in World War I?

Thousands of men, barely more than boys most of them, went off overseas on promises of adventure and glory.  They were told it would be ‘over by Christmas’ and were fed propaganda of German atrocities in Belgium to give their fight the guise of righteousness.  They were told it was in service to their country and empire.  Some of them were good men, some average, some bad.  Some of them had never left their small corner of New Zealand before, and there were even soldiers from Pacific Islands like Niue and the Cooks who had never worn shoes before their army issued boots.  And they all died.

Some of them were heroes in that they saved the lives of their comrades, or even their enemies, but there was nothing heroic about the war itself.  War is not heroic, and WWI was a particularly dumb war.  It was a war sparked by extreme nationalism, an arms race, imperialism, and machismo.  In WWI in particular, I cannot agree that all those boys ‘gave their lives so we could be free’.  They gave their lives so the powers that were could try to stay the powers that they were.

That doesn’t make their loss any less terrible.  Whether they joined for patriotism, adventure, duty, peer pressure or the absolute conviction that they were doing the right thing and helping the world, when they died, it was a tragedy.

But I do not think it should be glorified.

As Jolley’s poem points out: “…  our glory lies only in life as it’s lived – /  Never in death and the dying. /  The cenotaph knows the truth:  /  Its very own legend is lying.”

I think the best way we can honour them is to do everything to make sure it doesn’t happen again.  That we never again hurl an entire generation to their deaths to settle an argument that 100 years on, we still can’t agree what it was actually  about, or why it happened.

So for Anzac weekend, I try to honour the past in different ways, and spend  my energy improving the world a little bit – sometimes in odd  ways.

On Saturday (Anzac Day), we worked on painting the outside of our house, and tidying the inside.  Our house was built in the early 1920s, and there were almost certainly veterans among the builders who constructed it, and perhaps the original owner was also a veteran.

Taking care of their tangible, lasting legacy: a building that has sheltered people and kept them warm and safe for close to a century, so it can continue to do so for another century, seems a very fitting tribute.

On the Monday holiday I did a little living history research, and tried to come to a closer understanding of the lives of the women who were left in New Zealand to carry on during the war.  I put on my 1910s combinations and corset, stockings and shoes, two petticoats, and my just finished Wearing History 1916 skirt, and blouse (more on that later), and my 7 year stitch apron (slightly too modern, but the overall shape is still very close to a 1910s apron).

And then I did the laundry and made the beds, swept the house, dusted, and cooked meals.

Thanks to a modern washing machine and stove, that job was significantly easier for me than it would have been for my 1916 counterpart, but it still gave me a really interesting insight into what it was like to do that sort of work in the clothes of the era.

I’ll write an entire post about doing the housework in 1910s clothes as this one is too  long, and covering too much ground.

To finish off the day, Mr D and I made the trek to the Massey Memorial to take photographs of my outfit.  It’s a bit ironic, as Massey was the Prime Minister who was so keen to offer England assistance in a far-flung war.  On the other hand, he was also known for working for better conditions for the soldiers who were serving.

Wearing History's 1916 skirt thedreamstress.com - 5

You can really see the wartime influence in the 1916 silhouette.  The raised hemlines (as short as hemlines would be in the vast majority of ’20s frocks) and fuller skirts make walking and working much easier than the longer, slimmer 1913-and earlier skirts.

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The blouse and skirt combination, ubiquitous in photographs of New Zealand women in the war years, is also incredibly practical.  The blouses are washable, and  with a half a dozen of them a woman would have a complete wardrobe for every day of the week.

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It’s not as well known as the shortages and rationing of WWII, but there were also clothing shortages in WWI.  They were particularly dire in Europe, but New Zealand felt the run-on effects.  One of the particular shortages was in dye.  Germany had been such a major dye producer in the years before the war that the war left  certain shades in very short supply.  So practical suits in dull browns and blacks became common, and the vivid, exotic shades that characterised pre-war fashion were replaced by muted pastels in wartime frocks.

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My fabric is a wool-rayon blend.  Rayon (viscose) was available in New Zealand from 1911.  Wool-viscose blends were used during the war, because so much wool was being used for the military  that there were civilian shortages.

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The Challenge:  #4  War & Peace

Fabric:  1.2m of  black and charcoal striped wool-viscose blend, found in the Fabric Warehouse $5 bin.

Pattern:  Wearing History’s 1916 skirt pattern

Year:  1916

Notions:  cotton thread (really old stuff – possibly as old as the pattern!),  vintage velvet covered buttons from my Grandmother, horsehair interfacing, silk organza interfacing, vintage belting, hooks and loops.

How historically accurate is it?:  I’m not certain about the use of velvet buttons on a 1910s skirt, but other than that the materials and techniques are period perfect, so 95%.

Hours to complete:  6 or so —  this is an advanced pattern, and figuring out the interior belt was complicated.

First worn:  Thur April 16, by a model, at the Museum of Wellington City & Sea ‘Home Front’ talk, and then again Mon 27 April, for cooking, cleaning, and a photoshoot.

Total cost:   Under  $10  — the fabric I picked up for $5,  and the silk organza was also from the $5 bin (and I only used a fraction of it), plus $2 for hooks, $1 for thread, and another $1 worth of horsehair interfacing (thrifted).  

To end, a photo where I actually smile, as this has been a quite sombre and serious post:

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The Fine Feathered Friends Dress

Two weeks ago I posted about the 0Degrees of Sewing Separation challenge, and now it’s time to finally show you my make!

(well, one of my makes…I’m doing at least two, and maybe as many as 4….!)

This is definitely make #2, because it’s not the one you’ve already seen a sneak preview of.  It is, in fact, the one that started it all:

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This is  the Decades of Style Dorothy Lara dress  from the vintage feathered rayon that both    Juliet  of Crazy Gypsy Chronicles  and I bought a piece of at Fabric-a-Brac in Palmy.

Does that mean that Juliet made something in it?  Why yes, she did!  And shortly you’ll be able to read her blog post about it too! (and you even get a photo of us together in our garments, thanks to the ‘ask a random stranger to photograph you’ technique)

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Juliet wasn’t able to make the 0Degrees get together, so the two of us decided that we needed to meet to  take photos.  I took a break from pattern drafting and class planning, and she took a break from being an awesome museum person, and we  managed a quick photoshoot  at Parliament.

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It’s really quite amazing and wonderful that you can just wander around the parliament grounds, and that they are full of office workers sitting on the lawns and benches having lunch, and school kids climbing the pohutakawa trees.  It’s a good reminder that it wasn’t that long ago that the Prime Minister of NZ had his personal phone number listed in the phone book for anyone to look up!

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This is iteration #3 of the Decades of Style Dorothy Lara dress, and I feel I’ve finally got the fit just right.  I cut a 36″ skirt and waistband, and a 34″ bodice, and take in the angled raglan sleeves 1cm at the bottom and 1.5cm at the top, to compensate for my narrow upper back and shoulders.

Now that I have the fit right, I really love the dress, though the process of making it is still:

“AAAAGGGHHHhhhh!  I hate this so much!  This is so finicky and tedious and annoying!  It goes on forever!  Why am I doing this!  Oh…wait…I’m almost done.  Well, that last bit was fast!”

And then I try it on, and suddenly I’m in love all over again!

I hope Nina, who is the link before me in the 0Degrees chain, with a Dorothy Lara in white spotted sateen, likes hers as much!

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I did have a tiny last-minute upset with this dress.  I was putting it on to get dressed to take photos, and the invisible side zip broke!  Total panic, frantic unpicking, a mad search through my zip stash, and I managed to find a suitable zip and install it in time!  Whew!

I’m a little gutted though, as I was planning to replace the zip with a proper 1940s lapped fastening when I had time, and I’m not sure I can face unpicking another zip – nor am I sure the fabric can handle it.

I’ve paired the dress with a leather belt, a rust coloured silk and viscose cardigan (my new favourite not-me-made garment, for those days in winter when my skin is throwing hissy fits about having to wear wool, again), and NW3 Hobbs ’30s inspired shoes (mostly because I was in a mad hurry and they were the first brown shoes I located).

I really like the Dorothy Lara with a belt, and it sits very comfortably.

And I really love the whole look, because it does feel very  1940s.

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(a moment of appreciation for what a wiz with the camera Juliet is!  Even the NZ flag is perfect in that photo!)

The 1940s look is quite appropriate, because this isn’t just a qualifier for 0Degrees.  This also fits nicely into the HSF ‘War & Peace’ challenge, as the perfect example of a wartime frock using a fabric that was more widely available  (rayon), in a small, allover, non-directional print, perfect for conserving fabric.  The pattern is also a classic wartime pattern – giving the impression of lush fabric usage, while actually being quite frugal.  I’ve even gone for a teeny-tiny hem, to really conserve fabric.

And because it’s a wartime frock, we got some photos at the Parliament war memorial, with the cenotaph and lions:

Fine Feathered Friends Decades of Style Dorothy Lara dress thedreamstress.com - 2

The Challenge:  #4  War & Peace

Fabric:  3m (more or less, I forgot to measure exactly) of vintage feather patterned rayon – from the hand and width, it’s probably original 1940s fabric, picked up at Palmerston North’s Fabric-a-Brac.

Pattern:  Decades of Style #4013 Dorothy Lara dress

Year:  1943

Notions:  thread,  an invisible zip, silk organza to interface.

How historically accurate is it?:  Other than the invisible zip, the pattern, materials, and sewing techniques are all accurate to the early-mid 1940s.

Hours to complete:  7 or so —  I started, and then didn’t do anything for two weeks, and then got back to it

First worn:  Wed April 29, for the photoshoot.

Total cost:   About  $10  — the fabric I picked up for $6, and there is still enough of it left for a blouse, plus two $3 zips, a 50cent spool of vintage thread, and scraps of silk organza from a meter length I found in the Fabric Warehouse $5 bin (I LOVE that bin!)

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Rate the dress: Green in 1865

Draped and layered 1910s dresses just aren’t doing it for you are they?  First the blue chiffon and lace frock was compared to curtains and kids dress-ups, and then last week’s pale paisley 1910s frock was given the exact same criticism (only this time you said tablecloths) by some.  And quite a few of you thought it was nice but meh.  But some of you thought it was fabulous, so it did score enough 10/10 to bring it up to a respectable 8.2 out of 10 – which is pretty much exactly what I’d give the dress!.

I’ve been doing a bit of research into 1860s fashions as a potential project for my HSF Heirlooms &  Heritage challenge (not exactly a hint, because I’ve also discovered that thanks to some amazing family genealogy work I can trace a direct line of ancestors all the way back to Baldwin of Flanders in the 9th c (and, through Judith, all the way back to Charlemagne) so maybe I’ll get excited and do something early Medieval – or anywhere in between, because a lot is known about all the Sirs and Esquires that happened before you finally get a younger son who emigrates to America 800 years later), and I can across this dress.

And I think it’s fascinating:

The fabric is apparently a warp-printed moire silk taffeta, and the dress is a perfect example of the transition from the full crinoline silhouette, to the back-emphasis bustle silhouette.

Transitional styles are quite interesting: they can either be incredibly successful, combining elements of the more classic periods to create something unusual and unexpected, or they can be an awkward melding of disparate aesthetics.

How do you feel about this transitional gown?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10