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Watteau in Paradise

A couple of years ago I got a facebook message from the lovely Sadie.  She’d found a 1960s Hawaiian dress at an op shop.  Would I like it?  Oh sure, the 1960s did lots of Hawaiian stuff – it might be fun.

Nope, turns out, it’s actually Hawaiian!  As in, the fabric is by a Hawaiian fabric company (who knew?  There were, and are, still fabric companies in Hawaii!), and the dress is made from a Patterns Pasifica (a short lived 1960s-70s Hawaiian pattern company) design.

Watteau in Paradise 1960s dress thedreamstress.com

Sadly, the dress is  not from a Patterns Pacifica pattern that I own (my Mum bought me half a dozen when I was a teenager, and I’m gutted that I didn’t take better care of them), but it’s from that I’ve wanted to own for ages, because it’s very 18th century inspired, with those 1960s Watteau pleats.

Patterns Pacifica thedreamstress.com

So obviously I was VERY excited about the dress!

Watteau in Paradise 1960s dress thedreamstress.com

And it fits me!  (more or less.  It would help if I was 4 inches shorter and half a size smaller – as it was, I had to let out the hem as much as it would possibly go, and add a bias hem facing).

Watteau in Paradise 1960s dress thedreamstress.com

Unfortunately there aren’t very many opportunities to wear a mad Hawaiian evening gown in Wellington, but I was SO in love with the dress that when I was heading home to Hawaii in 2012 I convinced my parents that the theme of their 30th wedding anniversary should be ‘1960s Tiki Lounge’, complete with mocktails and pineapple hedgehog hors d’oeuvres, so I could wear the dress to that.

I’d show you pictures of the event but my little sister will kill me if any of the photos of her in a bright blue and orange micro-mini muumuu go public.

When we planned our Vanuatu holiday I was determined that I’d finally get proper photos.

Vanuatu was the perfect place to wear it and take pictures: I was definitely the most glamorous guest at the resort, and the staff loved it that I dressed for dinner.

It’s a bit sad that so few people do dress up.  Most people were going to dinner in tank tops and ripped shorts, despite the spectacular setting with formal candlelit dining right on the beach.  And since it was so hot, you wanted to change outfits three times a day anyway, so why not put on something a little fabulous?

Watteau in Paradise 1960s dress thedreamstress.com

The gorgeous  handbag, btw, is by my sister,  it’s handpainted leather and the lining has monkeys and if you ask nicely enough, you can probably buy your own from her!

Mr D did quite a good job with photos, don’t you think?

Watteau in Paradise 1960s dress thedreamstress.com

Watteau in Paradise 1960s dress thedreamstress.com

Watteau in Paradise 1960s dress thedreamstress.com

Watteau in Paradise 1960s dress thedreamstress.com

I only have one regret about the photos.  After we’d taken a lot and I’d declared that we were done, we walked back to our fare, and I noticed the light and snapped this photo of Mr D as a test:

Watteau in Paradise 1960s dress thedreamstress.com

 

Obviously it was VERY exciting, and we needed to take more of me down that path!

Nope.  Mr D threw a grumpy and said I’d said we were done, so we were DONE and refused to get any more.  Bah humbug.  What a poohead.

Watteau in Paradise 1960s dress thedreamstress.com

Rate the Dress: Charles Worth in 1897

Last week I showed you a striped 1860s number, and pointed out that the stripes weren’t aligned as we would expect them to be.  Oh foolish me!  Having had it pointed out, you all obsessed about the stripe placement, and were rather harsh on the poor gown (I know there was a tiny mis-match as well, but other than that, I actually though the unusual stripe action on the chevrons made the gown far more interesting and dynamic than a ‘normal’ stripe placement).  Beyond the stripes, some of you decried it as quite dull and blah.  Poor frock!  Some did love it though so it managed a 7.4 out of 10.

I’m quite obsessed with the late 1890s at the moment: the stiff, A-line skirts, the focus on menswear inspired tailoring, the pleating, the peculiar puffed sleeves.

This House of Worth evening gown from ca. 1897 is the perfect summation of the whole look.  The skirt,  with its heavy folds and widening gores.  The juxtaposition of the über-feminine pink floral warp-patterned silk with a strong, tailored silhouette.

Evening dress House of Worth ca. 1897, silk & linen, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2009.300.638.a.b

Evening dress House of Worth ca. 1897, silk & linen, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2009.300.638.a.b

The bodice which manages to be inspired both by men’s jackets and waistcoats, and 18th century stomachers and redingotes.  The sleeves: ruched below, surmounted by faux-renaissance puffs, with bands of lace forming slashings.

Evening dress, House of Worth, ca. 1897, silk & linen, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2009.300.638.a.b

Evening dress, House of Worth, ca. 1897, silk & linen, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2009.300.638.a.b

And finally, the skirt pleats, perfectly framing repeats of the floral pattern.

Evening dress, House of Worth, ca. 1897, silk & linen, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2009.300.638.a.b

Evening dress, House of Worth, ca. 1897, silk & linen, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2009.300.638.a.b

It’s quite a dress: feminine, masculine, multi-period historical, both ornate and paradoxically  severe.

Evening dress, House of Worth, ca. 1897, silk & linen, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2009.300.638.a.b

Evening dress, House of Worth, ca. 1897, silk & linen, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2009.300.638.a.b

What do you think of it?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10.

What a girl should wear, ca. 1907

I’ve been digging around in my stash of pages  from the Girl’s  Own Magazine, and came across these glorious evening gowns:

IMG_4452

 

Aren’t the butterfly gathers across  the bust of dark one just delicious?  And the decorative band on the light one, ducking in and out behind the bodice and sleeves?  And those droop puffed sleeves!  Fabulous!

I’m not sure about the merits of having a big circle on your chest though!

And just so you can read the fabulously hilarious write-up (“nothing flops this years but our sleeves”), here is the whole page in large size.

Evening gowns featured in the Girls Own Magazine thedreamstress.com

 

I’m 90% sure this is from sometime between Aug-December 1907.  Unfortunately my Girl’s Own Magazine pages from 1905-7 are an incomplete set of loose pages.  I’ve put them in the best order I can, but some I just have to guess at.