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Rate the Dress: Dudes dress-off

WOW!  Such consistent ratings for the red-velvet-and-chains 1880s dress last week!  8-10 across the board!  I don’t think we’ve EVER had a Rate the Dress before (exempting, of course, the one and only 10/10) where everyone concurred so wholeheartedly on a frock.  The final tally was 9.3/10, for being unusual, striking, and restrained in the face of overwhelming temptation to just be…overwhelming.

It’s feeling very spring-y here in Wellington.  The kowhai are in full flame of glowing golden yellow, my freesias and irises are blooming, and the promise of summer is in the air.  It’s also been a few Rate-the-Dresses since I’ve posted a Dress-Off, where you compare two garments on a similar theme, and rate each of them.  So this week’s Rate the Dress will be a spring-themed Dress-OFF.

For your sartorial judgement, I present a spring-green gentleman’s suit from the end of the 18th century.

The Los Angeles County Museum of Art gives us two views of this ensemble.  First, an elegantly sober variant, with matching pale green coat, waistcoat and breeches:

Version number two shows it with a vivid coral waistcoat and a bouffant hairdo: the last gasp of the 18th century macaroni.

What do you think?  Do you prefer the more restrained, sober variant with the matching waistcoat, or the more daring take on it, with the coral waistcoat?

Rate EACH version (with a different rating) on a scale of 1 to 10

 

Frocks & ‘Farewell my Queen’

Faced with the lack of costuming events in Wellington, one of the things we costume enthusiasts like to do is dress up in full frockery to see period movies.  I noticed that the French film ‘Farewell, My Queen‘ (Les Adieux à  la Reine) was playing at one of Wellington’s fabulous little boutique theatres, so off we went to see it.

On Saturday I mentioned to Mr D that the girls and I were going to watch a film on Sunday afternoon.  We had this conversation:

Mr D: “What movie?  Why didn’t you ask me”

Me: “It’s called Farewell, My Queen”

Mr D: (dubiously) “Oh”

Me: “It’s about Marie Antoinette”

Mr D: (with disgust) “Oh”.

Me: “It’s a costume movie.”

Mr D: (slight horror) “Oh”

Me: “It’s in French”

Mr D: (with fervent gratitude) “Thank you for not asking me!”

Alas, most of us who weren’t scared by costume movies in French were too worn out to dress up, but I put on my pet, and the Sewphist borrowed my chemise a la reine, and the whole group had lovely time.

Frocks at Farewell, My Queen thedreamstress.com

Thanks to Sarah the Photographer for being camera guru with my camera

Double alas, the movie wasn’t that good.  It’s yet another take on Marie Antoinette’s story.  Based on Chantal Thomas’ novel of the same name, it’s a look at four days at Versaille from the storming of the Bastille from the perspective of a servant who reads to the queen.  The back-stairs perspective is novel, but I doubt the accuracy of a very lowly servant, one who wears the same dress for four days, reading, much less being able to get within wiff distance of Marie Antoinette on a daily basis.

The film wasn’t strong on history either: it revolves around Marie Antoinette’s ‘crush’ on the Duchess de Polignac, and the film, while not explicitly claiming a lesbian relationship between the two, definitely describes a friendship (at least on the queen’s side) that is significantly more…ummm…devoted than the usual close female friendship.  I have to wonder how closely the film adheres to Thomas’ novel, as Thomas is supposed to be a reasonable historian, and the rumorous of lesbian relationships been pretty clearly proven to existing only in anti-monarchist propaganda based on everything recent I’ve read.  Resurrecting that dreadful old chestnut does nobody any favours.

And the costumes?  Oh dear

I was a bit dubious based on the poster, but all the reviews described it as a visual triumph.  Clearly the reviews weren’t written by anyone with any background in historical costuming.  Tons and tons of embroidered dupion.  Lots and lots of dresses criss-cross laced down the back with great honking metal eyelets.  Acid green.  Jackets worn fully buttoned over full dresses.  Servants with lace trimmed chemises.  Rose Bertin wearing the exact same outfit three days in a row.  And a ‘chemise a la reine’ inspired thing that is just…just…just oh dear.

Finally, the costume designer  was inexplicably attached to 1980s organza roses stuck to the wearers upper right bodice.  Here is Marie Antoinette with some.  And de Polignac with some.  And Rose Bertin with some.  And oh look, de Polignac with more of them  (and more of that embroidered dupion)!

Frocks at Farewell, My Queen thedreamstress.com

The best part of the film came when an upper servant informs our reader heroine that she is wanted by the Queen and hurries her along with an urgent ‘Allons-y’.  Our whole row burst into giggles, and as Madame O said later “a Tardis showing up at that point could only have improved the movie!”  It was definitely a little slow in places.

Frocks at Farewell, My Queen thedreamstress.com

ca. 1760 Robe a la Francaise inspiration

Though it’s going to be very late, I am working on my Robes & Robings project: a 1760s robe  Ã   la française.

My progress hasn’t been quite as fast as my very ambitious schedule, but it’s coming along.  I’ll show you the progress soon, but for now here are the extent garments and paintings that I am using as inspiration, because every good frock begins with research and inspiration.

My original jumping off point was, of course, Ramsay’s painting of Queen Charlotte:

The painting was begun in 1764, but Charlotte’s dress is not particularly fashion forward, which is good because I would like my dress to date a little earlier, without any design details that would be out of place in 1755.  The big problem with Charlotte’s frock is that you can’t see much of it.

You get a better look at these two frocks.  I’m particularly fond of Laura’s scrumptious blue & white number:

For some earlier inspiration, I adore this depiction of Louise-Elizabeth of France.  Her skirt trim is amazing, although my petticoat is already done.  And the pops of coral with her white frock are fabulous!  So no idea how much I’ll borrow for my gown, but I still find the portrait quite compelling.

Philippe de Bourbon, duke of Parma with his family (detail of his wife Louise-Elisabeth de France), G. Baldrighi about 1755, Galleria Nazionale, Parma

Philippe de Bourbon, duke of Parma with his family (detail of his wife Louise-Elisabeth de France), G. Baldrighi about 1755, Galleria Nazionale, Parma

Also in the 1750s is the first of three portraits of beautiful ladies in blue, all with very similar robing trim.  Madame Favarts dress inspires me because of the fabulous sleeve ruffles.

My earliest inspiration is this Portrait of an Unknown Lady: I love, love, love her robing trim, and the yellow & white stomacher?  Be still my heart!

An Unknown Lady at the Spinett, Johann Heinrich Tischbein d.Ä. (1753)

An Unknown Lady at the Spinett, 1753, Johann Heinrich Tischbein d.Ä.

Our Unknown Lady has very similar robings trim as Lady Innes, and I think they will be the primary inspirations for my robings trim.

Lady Innes, Thomas Gainsborough, 1757

Sarah, Lady Innes, Thomas Gainsborough, 1757.  The Frick Collection

And finally, an extent garment.  This fabulous frock has trim that matches Madame Favart, the Tischbein portrait and Gainsborough’s Lady Innes portrait, and matches my timeperiod perfectly:

I’ve also got a pinterest board with a bit more inspiration.

So that’s what I’m working towards, but first I have to actually construct the dress!  Then I can get to pretty trims 😉