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Dress, 1910-1919, silk?, wool? beads, Gift of Beryle Christesen, Goldstein Museum of Design, 1983.025.007

Rate the Dress: black, green, pink, and brightly beaded wartime daywear

This week’s Rate the Dress is mid-1910s themed, to celebrate the launch of the Selina Blouse.

Last Week:  an 1830s banyan and waistcoat of 1740s fabric

Apparently men need to go back to wearing beautifully fitted housecoats in lavish floral fabrics, because last week’s banyan and waistcoat were very popular.

The Total: 9.7 out of 10

In Rate the Dress that’s practically perfection!  And no surprise – fabulous fabric, fabulous fit, and so interesting.

This week: a 1910s day dress with touches of colour:

This dress is an excellent example of high-end mid-1910s day dress:

It’s got a simple, practical silhouette, enlivened by interesting details.

The black colour shows the trend towards black as a chic, practical, everyday colour which was had been championed by couturiers like Paquin  since the late 19th century.

Black was practical in more than one sense in the middle of WWI.  Germany had been the world’s largest dye producer prior to WWI.  The war cut off supply lines, even to countries not involved in the war.  One of the few dyes manufactured in large supply outside of Germany was black: so black clothes were in.

This dress uses touches of unexpected colour to relieve the black: the green collar edged with hot pink embroidery, and multicolour glass beads running up the front.

The grouping of the beads, rather than running them at regular intervals down the front, is a typical feature of mid 1910s design.

The dress is full of other classic war-year design features: quirky double collars, a loose sheath silhouette that anticipates the 1920s, but is pulled in with the two side sashes, layered skirts, and beautiful finishing details.

I’ve puzzled over the entry to this dress, and think I’ve figure it out.  It fastens down the centre front under the front panel.  The panel hooks or snaps under the collar on the proper left, and is caught with a hook under the proper left waist sash bead.

What do you think?  A good balance of practical, luxurious, elegant and fun?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

A reminder about rating — feel free to be critical if you don’t like a thing, but make sure that your comments aren’t actually insulting to those who do like a garment.  Phrase criticism as your opinion, rather than a flat fact. Our different tastes are what make Rate the Dress so interesting.  It’s no fun when a comment implies that anyone who doesn’t agree with it, or who would wear a garment, is totally lacking in taste.

As usual, nothing more complicated than a .5.  I also hugely appreciate it if you only do one rating, and set it on a line at the very end of your comment.

@jayagracecostumes in the Scroop Patterns Selina Blouse

The Selina Blouse: the tester makes Part II: historical

Get ready for even more Selina Blouse tester makes gorgeousness!

Here’s Part 2 of the tester makes.  Today’s makes are all the historical makes.  By random coincidence they are also almost all in classic white.  So it’s a round up post showing how different the Selina can look in a dozen different white fabrics (and a couple of florals and spots)!

The Scroop Patterns Selina Blouse ScroopPatterns.com

In Part 1 I showed all the testers who styled their Selina for modern or historybounding wear.

Now for the historical fabulosity!

Jaya of @jayagracecostumes

Jaya’s photos have the most wonderful, dreamy, Anne of Green Gables feel.

@jayagracecostumes in the Scroop Patterns Selina Blouse

Her Selina is a great example of how well the blouse works in a lighter fabric with more drape – and how well it works tucked in.

@jayagracecostumes in the Scroop Patterns Selina Blouse

Jaya made View A in Size 36, graded down to a Size 34 in the peplum.   Check out her instagram to see all her other beautiful makes.

Sally

Sally made View B for her classic white Selina.  Her take on it is equally beautiful.  How perfect is that fit!?

Sally in the Scroop Patterns Selina Blouse

It’s a side note to the blouse itself, but I love her braid coils: it’s a 1910s hairstyle that not many people do, but occasionally you see it in fashion magazines or photos, and I love seeing it in person.

Sally in the Scroop Patterns Selina Blouse

Myrthe made View A in Size 44, with a Size 40 back.  This is an easy way to accomodate a narrower back and fuller bust.

Michaela of @parallelsofthepast

Michaela really loved the possibilities for embellishment that View B allows.  It’s really such a blank slate: you could do anything with it.  What did she do?  Ruffles!

Michaela of @parallelsofthepast in the Scroop Patterns Selina Blouse

Her inspiration?  The beautiful blouse in the lower right corner of this 1915 mail order catalogue she owns (shared with her permission):

Michaela of @parallelsofthepast in the Scroop Patterns Selina Blouse

Like the Selina it has raglan sleeves and a V neck.  Take the Selina and add a cascade of ruffles down the front, and there you have it!  And isn’t it gorgeous!

Michaela of @parallelsofthepast in the Scroop Patterns Selina Blouse

I love that she took the pattern and showed what you could do with it based on period information.  Brilliant and beautiful!

Michaela made a Size 38, with a Size 32 peplum

@Robescherie  

Robescherie already appeared in yesterdays post, but she’s here again because she made three versions.  I can’t decide if yesterday’s black blouse or this white one is my favourite:

@Robescherie in the Scroop Patterns Selina Blouse

That floral voile!  So fabulous!

@Robescherie in the Scroop Patterns Selina Blouse

She also made a coloured version.  Doesn’t it work perfectly with the yellows of spring?

@Robescherie in the Scroop Patterns Selina Blouse

Beautiful!

Robescherie made View A in Size 40, with adjustments to the peplum following the alterations and fitting guide given in the pattern.

Mie

I’ve had Mie test a couple of Scroop Patterns, because she always provides incredibly thoughtful feedback, and makes beautiful garments.  Her Selina Blouse is no exception!

Mie in the Scroop Patterns Selina Blouse

She chose a sweet floral print for her blouse.  Aren’t her photos gorgeous?  Like film stills.

Mie in the Scroop Patterns Selina Blouse

Mie made View A with no collar in a straight Size 34.

Costume Kullan

Costume Kullan made the loveliest Selina in an adorable polka dotted cotton.  She used it because it was the only suitable thing at her local fabric store, but I think it’s perfect!  (Obviously I’m a fan of polka dots for this blouse: just look at the version I put on the pattern cover!)

Costume Kullan in the Scroop Patterns Selina Blouse

Plus, she already has a gorgeous skirt and hat to match!  And she’s already written a great post about being a pattern tester, and her blouse.

https://www.facebook.com/costumekullan in the Scroop Patterns Selina Blouse

She made View A, and a straight Size 46.

Hope of @historical_hopes  

Like Michaela of @parallelsofthepast, Hope really played with the possibilities of View B.  She added lace, and paired it with a matching skirt to create a ‘lingerie frock’.

@historical_hopes in the Scroop Patterns Selina Blouse

Isn’t it just divine?

@historical_hopes in the Scroop Patterns Selina Blouse

All those lace insets and floaty panels!   So beautiful!

@historical_hopes in the Scroop Patterns Selina Blouse

Hope made a Size 40, with alterations to the peplum using the Fitting and Alterations Guide.

Cela of @totchipanda  

Instead of classic white, Cela made their blouse in classic blue – and then paired it with a green skirt (the Wearing History 1910s suit skirt) in emerald green.

Cela of @totchipanda in the Scroop Patterns Selina Blouse

It’s brilliant 1910s colour madness at its best and I love it.

Cela of @totchipanda in the Scroop Patterns Selina Blouse

Cela made View A in size 40.

But wait, there’s more!  You absolutely must check out Cela’s instagram, and keep an eye on their blog: they already turned the Selina Blouse into a dress, and will be blogging how they did it!

Elizabeth of @littleantiqueme

And to finish off, another beautifully classic white version of the Selina.

@littleantiqueme in the Scroop Patterns Selina Blouse

Perfectly 1915, and absolutely timeless.

@littleantiqueme in the Scroop Patterns Selina Blouse

Such crisp details in her cuff!  And wonderful period hair and accessories.

@littleantiqueme in the Scroop Patterns Selina Blouse

She made a Size 30.

Thank you, thank you, thank you to these testers, and to the ones I showed yesterday.  You are wonderful and so helpful.

Gaëlle of @supergaelle in the Scroop Patterns Selina Blouse

The Selina Blouse: the tester makes Part I: modern & historybounding!

What time is it?  Tester makes time!

It’s the best part of pattern releases: where you get to see how a bunch of fabulous sewers interpreted the pattern.

The Scroop Patterns Selina Blouse ScroopPatterns.com

Testers help make a pattern perfect, by pointing out any bits in the instructions that are a bit confusing, and by helping me refine the fit so it works as well as possible on as many bodies as possible.

I mentioned that there were a lot of exciting Selina Blouse tester makes, and I am not kidding!  In fact, there’s so many makes that I’m going to be doing two tester posts.

Here’s the first one: all the testers who styled their Selina Blouses with modern clothes or as historybounding.

Here are the tester makes!

Gaëlle of @supergaelle

I’m in love with the fun floral print that Gaëlle used on her Selina Blouse, and the way she highlighted the collar and placket detailing with trim.

Gaëlle of @supergaelle in the Scroop Patterns Selina Blouse

Her photos are a great example of how fabulous the blouse looks with trousers.  Am I going to copy this look in my wardrobe?  Absolutely!

Gaëlle of @supergaelle in the Scroop Patterns Selina Blouse

Gaëlle made View A in Size 42, graded down to Size 40 in the hips.  She’s petite, so she shortened both the bodice and sleeves 2cm.  Check out her IG for more cute photos.

Myrthe of @atelier.nostalgia and Atelier Nostalgia

Myrthe’s take on styling the Selina is totally different to Gaëlle’s, but I’m equally enamoured of it.

Myrthe of @ateliernostalgia in the Scroop Selina Blouse

Super crisp shirting Selina and super full circle skirt?  Yes please!

Myrthe of @ateliernostalgia in the Scroop Selina Blouse

You could wear this into the office any day!

Myrthe of @ateliernostalgia in the Scroop Selina Blouse

Myrthe made View A in Size 34, and lengthened the sleeves 1” as she’s tall.

Megan of @boldly_sews

There are a lot of 1910s blouses that have different coloured front panels.  Megan gave her version of the Selina a more modern twist on that look, with a mauve central panel that matches the mauve stripes of the rest.

Megan of @boldly_sew in the Scroop Patterns Selina Blouse

Megan’s blouse really shows how fun stripes are with the peplum.

Megan of @boldly_sew in the Scroop Patterns Selina Blouse

Megan made View A in Size 50.  She lengthen the sides and back of the bodice 1”, and the front an additional two inches using the 1910s style FBA alternative suggested in the  Fitting and Adjustments manual.

@Robescherie  

Robescherie is going to appear in both Selina tester round-up posts, because she liked the pattern so much she made three versions!@Robescherie in the Scroop Patterns Selina Blouse

Here’s her black version of the Selina shown with a sexy pencil skirt…

 

@Robescherie in the Scroop Patterns Selina Blouse

And with a black skirt as Edwardian mourning wear.

@Robescherie in the Scroop Patterns Selina Blouse

Perfect both ways!

Robescherie made View A in Size 40, with adjustments to the peplum following the alterations and fitting guide given in the pattern.

Astrid of @astridpiepschyk

I wasn’t sure how the Selina would look in stripes, but Astrid’s version has me convinced.  The Selina is gorgeous in stripes!

Astrid of @AstridPiepschyk in the Scroop Patterns Selina Blouse

Not only is her stripe matching perfection, Astrid took a lot of care to get the Selina to fit exactly to her liking, and it shows!

Astrid of @AstridPiepschyk in the Scroop Patterns Selina Blouse

She made View B in Size 40 front, 38 back, and 40 peplum.  She lengthened the arms by 10cm, and the overall bodice by 5cm, and added an extra 2cm to the front bodice length in a period-accurate FBA.    All the adjustments are covered in the Fitting and Adjustments document that comes with the Selina.

And last, but definitely, definitely not least…

Nina of @ninavirgo  

Nina was both a tester and a model!  She made her Selina, and the Eastbourne trousers she’s wearing it with.

The Scroop Patterns Selina Blouse ScroopPatterns.com

I love how the Selina is almost historical with the Eastbournes, but also totally modern.

Nina of @ninavirgo in The Scroop Patterns Selina Blouse ScroopPatterns.com

To give her Selina a modern fit, Nina lengthened it by 1”, and graded out from a Size 46 in the bust to a Size 50 in the peplum, to give the peplum a relaxed fit.

Thank you to all the awesome testers! I am incredibly grateful for your input!

And check back in for the next tester post, where I show off all the historical versions of the Selina Blouse...