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Rate the Dress: Fancy dress for 1830

The Halloween run-up purple and black dress from last week was very divisive.  You either loved the dress, or hated it.  One thing you did agree on though: the fringe was not good.  Perhaps my anti-fringe stance has influenced all of you after all!  The pro-black and purple-ites won a slight victory, bringing the rating in at 6.7 out of 10

Last week I gave a taste of the season, and I promised a proper Halloween Rate the Dress for this week, but when I came to pick something, I realised what a mistake my promise was!  How was I ever to live up to last year’s Victorian Batgirl?  How was I ever to find something else that was said ‘Halloween’ so clearly, that was from a different period (because the whole point is variety), and that wasn’t so historical that the costume would make no sense from a modern perspective.

So I thought about the timeless trends in costuming: things that make Halloween costumes Halloween costumes, and it boiled down to three things: scary, sexy and cross-dressing.  Last year we covered scary and sexy, so this year we’ll look at the one that is left: crossdressing.

With a little sexy thrown in.

Yep, crossdressing goes back a long time, and even happened in those periods that we think of as very prudish, like the early Victorians.  Here is a suggestion for fancy dress from August 1830:

Fancy Ball Dresses from La Belle Assemblee, August 1830

We are going to ignore the woman in crazy ethnic peasant dress on the right, and focus on her companion on the left.  Let’s take a closer look:

Fancy dress for August 1830

Yep.  That’s definitely a woman.  In man’s clothes.  In fact, I think she is supposed to be a soldier.  The saucily tilted tricorn hat, frogged vest, blue jacket, white pantaloons, and red sash certainly give that impression.  Among others.

So, does everyone love a girl in uniform?  Or is sexy cross-dressing tacky and unattractive in any era?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

ETA:  As people are having trouble seeing the soldier uniform, here are a few examples that might help you visualise it:

An illustration of French gendarme uniforms in 1830:

Garde Royal uniform, 1830

A 1940s costume from the Powerhouse.  100 years, and still very similar!

Soldier fancy dress costume, 1943-44, Powerhouse

And check out this page of French military uniforms

 

Fabrications: Mark your calenders!

Do you like textiles and fabric?

Mmmm...fabric! Who doesn't love it?

Of course you like textile and fabric!  That’s why you read this blog!

Are you going to be in Wellington on Sat the 19th of November?

If so, mark your calendars for Fabrications, an expo celebrating all things textile and fabric related.

And I’m going to be there doing something new and exciting.

An old and exciting Japanese fukusa (gift square)

I’ll be hosting a Antiques Roadshow type event, where you bring me a textile object of any type that you want to know more about, and for a gold coin I’ll tell you everything I know about the textile, except the valuation.

What, what’s that!?!  Isn’t that the whole Antiques Roadshow thing?  It’s all about what an object is worth?

Well, yes, kinda.

I don’t particularly like the value-focused approach to antiques in the first place, and it works particularly badly when applied to textiles, which are the most intimate form of antiques: worn on our bodies, carried with us, the mementoes of births and marriages, celebrations and survival.  What a textile is worth is so much more than a monetary value, and I like to focus on that.

My grandmother's novelty-print fabric. Worth a lot to me!

So what kind of textiles can you bring?

Anything really:  old fabric with fun patterns, your grandmothers wedding dress, a scrap of mystery brocade, or a perfectly pristine embroidered apron.  I know a lot about a lot of textiles, and well, if I don’t know about yours you will have had the honour of having completely stumped me!

And of course I’ll bring some of my own textiles to have on display, and will be wearing a fabulous frock.

A scrap of Chinese cloud collar

 

 

Shell’s dress: The skirt

Actually, this post is about the skirt lining of Shell’s dress, because I foolishly neglected to take any photos of the skirt outer in progress.

The skirt lining is cut to the exact same pattern as the skirt outer though, so you’ll get the idea.

The skirt: lots and lots of folds, and a wide train

Because of the width of each of the four back skirt panels, and how narrow my fabric was, I had to put joins in the bottom of each skirt panel.  You can see them in the bottom right of the photo.

They don’t look great on the lining, but I’m confident they will be barely noticeable in the final dress.

Isn't the spread of train gorgeous? And look whose watching...

I’m going to need to trim a lot from the skirt sides.  The train is also longer than it looks:  I have Isabelle the dress form raised to her full height.

I’m in love with the dotted swiss fabric.  It’s such a lovely fabric to work with.  I wish I knew what the fibre makeup was.

Felicity loves it too. It makes a good cat tent

The spotted fabric ads a lovely, fun, touch to the dress.  You’ll just see glimpses of it as you pick up the skirt, and the spots are so subtle that they won’t show through the outer chiffon crepe, or rub against Shell’s skin.

And besides, I firmly believe that lining fabrics should always be as cute as possible.  Even if they can’t compare with having Felicity as part of the dress.

We are teh cute