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Rate the Dress: muslin frills in 1822

Feelings on Anne of Austria’s over the top fleur de lys Rate the Dress were mixed, reflecting the division in taste between the minimalists and the maximalists.  Some of you didn’t like the dress aesthetically, but recognised that it achieved its aim.  It rated a 7 out of 10.

This week I visit an era that mixed minimalism and maximalism in equal parts: the 1820s and 30s.  Such a juxtaposition creates a trying time for fashion.  Past ratings have shown that occasionally designers get the Romantic silhouette right, but it is no easy feat.

Will this uber-feminine froth of muslin, lace and puffs over baby girl pink, from the collection of the V&A win your approval?  Or will you find the triple tiers of trim and daringly low cut back too perplexing, and condemn the dress?

Rate the dress on a scale of 1 to 10

Felicity and the bumblebee

Felicity finally managed to catch a bumblebee last Friday, with predictable chaos and unhappiness on all sides.

Felicity was freaked out and in pain, I was freaked out, and after finally managing to catch my freaked out cat, in a little cat induced pain of my own, and I doubt the bumblebee loved the ordeal.

After a quarter of an hour of Felicity running in and out of the house and bouncing around like a brickle ball, and me trying to get ahold of her so I could remove the bumblebee, she managed to knock it off herself.

There was another quarter of an hour of puffing and hissing while she calmed down, and then all was back to normal.

I do hope she retains a little wisdom from this experience and gives up on her effort to catch bumblebees in the future!

Oooh, what's that?

Fuzzy buzzy little bee

Poor Fissy!

Poor bee!

A different kind of robe a la francaise

In addition to all the recreation dresses that were in last Saturday’s talk, I used some real vintage garments as well.

I own this beautiful early 1930s rayon robe, made in Japan for the Western market.

The theme of Saturday’s talk was The Eastern influence on Western fashion, with a focus on Japonisme and Chinoiserie, so what could be better than a kimono inspired robe made in Japan for the Western market?

Madame O has a beautiful 1940s peach pink negligee that paired perfectly with the robe (and being the darling that she is, of course she was willing to let me use it for the talk).

The only thing we needed was a model.

I got asked to do Saturday’s talk at the last minute, and coordinating models was touch and go the whole time.

Enter Mrs C and Hortense (you have to say her name in the most glamorous French accent possible).

Hortense is a French exchange student who came to Saturday’s conference with her host.  Mrs C found her, pounced on her, declared she would be the perfect model, and presented her when I arrived.

Oohhh la la!

Is she gorgeous or what?

She was an absolute darling backstage, beautiful and poised onstage, and gorgeous during the photoshoot.

Occasionally I had to tell her not to be such a good model though!

I’m happy with my blog looking a little less professional and Vogue and a little simpler and more Dreamy.

Miss Elisabeth, the Sewphist, lent her wedding shoes to go with the negligee and robe.  Very sweet!

I love the late 40s negligee – it’s more sweet than sultry, and works perfectly with the unusual orange of the robe.

Mrs C did Hortense’s (remember, glorious French accent!) hair in 40’s poofs

The robe isn’t a particularly high quality example – it’s rayon crepe rather than silk, and the embroidery is very large and rough.

This doesn’t lessen its charm for me in the least bit – I like the ‘ordinary’ vintage bits as much as the extraordinary ones, and it’s interesting for me to know that exports from Japan were so common that there were lesser quality items being produced for the Western market.

The black lining around the edges of the sleeves and the robe front hints at the robes inspiration, and the layers of kimono that would have been worn in Japan.

I love peaches and pinks and apricots, in flowers and clothes.

And one last image of the exquisite Hortense

And some details of the robe:

Thank you so, so much Hortense!  You were wonderful!