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Devore velvet evening dress trimmed with metallic lace, c.1910 sold by VintageTextile.com

Rate the Dress: Second Decade Devore

Everybody knows that the 1910s are my favourite decade, and it’s been a while since I featured one on Rate the Dress, so that’s this week’s theme.

But of course, while I might like the decade, I don’t love every example… Is this week’s pick one you’ll like?  

Last Week: an 1860s day dress in raspberry pink

Well, when it comes to last week’s dress, you all agree with Maggie Prescott – it’s time to #thinkpink!

The Total: 9.4 out of 10

Pink perfection!

This week:  A 1910s dress in devore velvet and metallic lace

Last week’s dress was big, with bold design flourishes. This week I’ve gone for the slim, sleek lines of the 1910s, with an evening dress in devore velvet and metallic lace.

Devore velvet evening dress trimmed with metallic lace, c.1910 sold by VintageTextile.com
Devore velvet evening dress trimmed with metallic lace, c.1910 sold by VintageTextile.com

The layers of different fabric, with contrasting textures of stiff lace, plush velvet, silky underlayers and glass beads, is typical of the aesthetics of the era.

Devore velvet evening dress trimmed with metallic lace, c.1910 sold by VintageTextile.com
Devore velvet evening dress trimmed with metallic lace, c.1910 sold by VintageTextile.com

Also typical is the mix of symmetry and asymmetry.

Devore velvet evening dress trimmed with metallic lace, c.1910 sold by VintageTextile.com
Devore velvet evening dress trimmed with metallic lace, c.1910 sold by VintageTextile.com

The front bodice is balanced: a shallow scoop of neck, and swooping winged sleeves of gold lace, all held with an oversized beaded embellishment.

Devore velvet evening dress trimmed with metallic lace, c.1910 sold by VintageTextile.com
Devore velvet evening dress trimmed with metallic lace, c.1910 sold by VintageTextile.com

The front beading is balanced by a large clip holding the back wrap, and more embellishment anchoring twin sashes of metallic gold.

Devore velvet evening dress trimmed with metallic lace, c.1910 sold by VintageTextile.com
Devore velvet evening dress trimmed with metallic lace, c.1910 sold by VintageTextile.com

It’s unclear if the back bodice is purposefully unbalanced, or simply mounted badly, with the back wrap off kilter.

Devore velvet evening dress trimmed with metallic lace, c.1910 sold by VintageTextile.com
Devore velvet evening dress trimmed with metallic lace, c.1910 sold by VintageTextile.com

What do you think? Is this example the epitome of late Edwardian elegance?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

A reminder about rating — feel free to be critical if you don’t like a thing, but make sure that your comments aren’t actually insulting to those who do like a garment.  Phrase criticism as your opinion, rather than a flat fact. Our different tastes are what make Rate the Dress so interesting.  It’s no fun when a comment implies that anyone who doesn’t agree with it, or who would wear a garment, is totally lacking in taste. 

(as usual, nothing more complicated than a .5.  I also hugely appreciate it if you only do one rating, and set it on a line at the very end of your comment

The NZSEHR 2019 in 1360s Medieval gowns thedreamstress.com

Medieval Madness

My local historical sewing group has been setting a loose theme for every year, so that we all end up with a costume from a period, to wear to events together. In 2018 we did Regency, and wore it at our first Sew & Eat Historical Retreat.

Our 2019 theme was Medieval, and boy did we have fun!

The NZSEHR 2019 in 1360s Medieval gowns thedreamstress.com

I already had the 1360s dress that I made back in 2015 (was it really that long ago!), so I got to be a lady of leisure and not sew anything Medieval (instead I made Augusta Stays all year long!)

The NZSEHR 2019 in 1360s Medieval gowns thedreamstress.com

But I still helped. Nina & Priscilla used the same wool for their dresses, a heathered brown which we dyed yellow, using slightly different dyes for each of them to achieve different hues.

The NZSEHR 2019 in 1360s Medieval gowns thedreamstress.com

(side note: look at Nina’s beautiful buttons!)

The NZSEHR 2019 in 1360s Medieval gowns thedreamstress.com

We draped the frocks in our sewing meet ups, and they sewed the gowns all year long, working on sleeve fit and gore placement, and making accessories.

The NZSEHR 2019 in 1360s Medieval gowns thedreamstress.com

Hvitr made her beautiful black & white twill gown based on the Herjolfsnes finds.

We wore our dresses on Sunday, for our big Medieval Gala dinner. It was the right choice: Saturday was very warm, but Sunday was nice and chill, perfect for wool dresses (too chilly for Priscilla actually!).

We wandered around in the woods before dinner, taking photographs and trying to think of Medieval-esque poses.

The NZSEHR 2019 in 1360s Medieval gowns thedreamstress.com

We found a big tree with lots of fallen branches, so began collecting armfuls (while admitting that our frocks were a bit fancy for your average Medieval wood-gatherer).

The NZSEHR 2019 in 1360s Medieval gowns thedreamstress.com

The thing is, when your arms are full of wood and you’re in a Medieval frock, there is a very obvious, very terrible, joke you have to make.

It may have included us chanting ‘Burn the Witch’ at the photographer…

Luckily we didn’t burn her, and she wasn’t mad at us, and we all got to go in out of the cold and have delicious food!

Fun times!

My historical costuming people thedreamstress.com

Day dress, 1867, Marie and Josephine Virfolet, New York City, Ribbed silk, silk satin, glass seed beads, Albany Institute of History & Art, 1972.95.7

Rate the Dress: Big Skirts, Bold Hues

I know that boring colour to bold colour isn’t the most novel or inventive reason to choose a Rate the Dress, but Rate the Dress doesn’t always have to break the mould: sometimes it’s just about picking an interesting dress. Hopefully my choice this week at least fits that category! As to beauty, that’s up to you.

Last Week: an 1805 dress of uncertain colour

Last week’s Rate the Dress really was the opposite of the dress of the week before: muted hues, simple trimmings, a very different silhouette – and where the bustle dress of all-the-stuff elicited a lengthy and detailed conversation, the restrained Regency frock garnered half the amount of comments. And the rating spread was inverted: most ratings were right in the middle, with only a few on the extremities.

The Total: 6.7 out of 10

Last fortnight’s dress was one to love or loathe, last week’s frock did not inspire, but did not offend – and came out with the better rating. But some of us will still adore (or hate) one or the other, no matter the rating!

This week:  an 1860s day dress in raspberry pink

After a extremely decorated and extremely restrained dress, I thought I’d go for something that’s both simple, but undeniably bold:

Day dress, 1867, Marie and Josephine Virfolet, New York City, Ribbed silk, silk satin, glass seed beads, Albany Institute of History & Art, 1972.95.7
Day dress, 1867, Marie and Josephine Virfolet, New York City, Ribbed silk, silk satin, glass seed beads, Albany Institute of History & Art, 1972.95.7

This late 1860s day dress makes full use of the bold colours which became fashionable in the wake of the discovery of aniline dyes, pairing a bright raspberry pink with wine red, and setting it off with crisp white.

Day dress, 1867, Albany Institute of History & Art, 1972.95.7
Day dress, 1867, Marie and Josephine Virfolet, New York City, Ribbed silk, silk satin, glass seed beads, Albany Institute of History & Art, 1972.95.7

The effect is a play on complement and contrast.

Day dress, 1867, Marie and Josephine Virfolet, New York City, Ribbed silk, silk satin, glass seed beads, Albany Institute of History & Art, 1972.95.7
Day dress, 1867, Marie and Josephine Virfolet, New York City, Ribbed silk, silk satin, glass seed beads, Albany Institute of History & Art, 1972.95.7

The embellishments also play with polarities: big bold designs, which are made up of delicate details up close.

Day dress, 1867, Marie and Josephine Virfolet, New York City, Ribbed silk, silk satin, glass seed beads, Albany Institute of History & Art, 1972.95.7
Day dress, 1867, Marie and Josephine Virfolet, New York City, Ribbed silk, silk satin, glass seed beads, Albany Institute of History & Art, 1972.95.7

From a distance the appliqued lines are bold and simple. Each line placement is meticulously thought out. They hide the seams on the front of the skirt, echo the folds in the back and highlight the new elliptical skirt shape.

Day dress, 1867, Marie and Josephine Virfolet, New York City, Ribbed silk, silk satin, glass seed beads, Albany Institute of History & Art, 1972.95.7
Day dress, 1867, Marie and Josephine Virfolet, New York City, Ribbed silk, silk satin, glass seed beads, Albany Institute of History & Art, 1972.95.7

On closer inspection, the lines are made of layers of different colours and fabric, picked out with the tiniest seed beads.

Day dress, 1867, Marie and Josephine Virfolet, New York City, Ribbed silk, silk satin, glass seed beads, Albany Institute of History & Art, 1972.95.7
Day dress, 1867, Marie and Josephine Virfolet, New York City, Ribbed silk, silk satin, glass seed beads, Albany Institute of History & Art, 1972.95.7

Even the front buttons have bead embellishments:

Day dress, 1867, Marie and Josephine Virfolet, New York City, Ribbed silk, silk satin, glass seed beads, Albany Institute of History & Art, 1972.95.7
Day dress, 1867, Marie and Josephine Virfolet, New York City, Ribbed silk, silk satin, glass seed beads, Albany Institute of History & Art, 1972.95.7

What do you think? Does this dress provide equal visual rewards from a distance, and in intimate proximity?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

A reminder about rating — feel free to be critical if you don’t like a thing, but make sure that your comments aren’t actually insulting to those who do like a garment.  Phrase criticism as your opinion, rather than a flat fact. Our different tastes are what make Rate the Dress so interesting.  It’s no fun when a comment implies that anyone who doesn’t agree with it, or who would wear a garment, is totally lacking in taste. 

(as usual, nothing more complicated than a .5.  I also hugely appreciate it if you only do one rating, and set it on a line at the very end of your comment