All posts tagged: sewing

Making linen buckram: gum tragacanth vs xathan gum

Making Linen Buckram: Gum Tragacanth vs Xanthan Gum

I’ve been doing a lot of experimenting with making linen buckram in the last year and a half, playing with using both historically accurate gum tragacanth, and a much cheaper and easier to source modern equivalent: xanthan gum. We’re getting very close to launching Scroop Pattern’s and Virgil’s Fine Good’s first collaboration: a 1780s stays pattern with extensive historical instruction. Historical stays use linen buckram, so here’s what I’ve learned about it to help you make your own. What is linen buckram? Linen buckram is stiffened linen. It was used in 17th, 18th and early 19th century sewing as support layers where stiffening was needed, such as in stays, stiff collars, stomachers, and hatmaking. It’s made by coating linen with a gum paste, usually gum tragacanth, or xanthan gum, and then letting the gum dry. The more layers of gum that are applied, the stiffer the linen gets. Here is what it looks and sounds like in motion: In addition to historical sewing, I think it has lots of potential for general costuming: particularly for …

Barcode Shirt & Smaug Shorts

Dinosaur Eggs & Dragon Shorts

Last year summer in Wellington was a non-starter.  I barely made a summer wardrobe, and didn’t get to wear the few pieces I did make.  This year Wellington is making up for lost sunshine with a vengeance.  It’s been SUNNY and STICKY.  Mr D & I have been spending lots of time outside, gardening and going for walks, which means lots of shorts & T-shirts. Luckily I found the perfect shorts fabric over winter.  Isn’t it wonderful when you find a fabric and it tells you exactly what it wants to be?  Down to the last detail!  So often I know what I want to make, but can’t find the right fabric, or find gorgeous fabric, and have a good general idea of what it should be, but figuring out the design details takes more time than making the actual thing… Last winter Made Marion Craft got in this fabulous linen blend with a little triangular pattern in yellow & black: It immediately said two things to me: shorts, and Smaug. Smaug? Yep! Think of …

The Black Friday Pattern Roundup

Is your Indie Pattern company running a Black Friday/Cyber Monday Sale? Let me know!

Get excited! I’m going to be doing a round-up of ALL the indie pattern companies that are doing sales between November 20-30.  It will be your one-stop shop for finding out all the amazing sales that will be on in the next week. I was inspired to do this because I’ve realised that most of the indie pattern sale round-ups don’t include historical & vintage based indie pattern lines (which is very sad – they were basically the original indie patterns!).  Plus many of them charge indie pattern companies to be included on their list.  As an indie pattern designer, I know how hard you have to work for every dollar you earn.  I thought it would a free, all-inclusive list would be a nice service I could offer back to the sewing and pattern designing community. Know an indie pattern company planning to run a sale? Let me know through my contact form here, or through my page messages on Facebook, or through the @scrooppatterns PM on Instagram.  Or, just leave a comment with …