Historical Sew Fortnightly
Published on November 20, 2013

Historical Sew Fortnightly ’14 Challenge #4: Under It All

written by The Dreamstress

The fourth Historical Sew Fortnightly challenge for 2014, due March 1, is the first repeat of a ’13 Challenge theme: Under It All.

This theme is all about the foundations to a garment: the things that go under it to provide the right shape and support, and to protect your fancy outer garments from sweat and grime.

What could you make?

Chemises and shifts:

Chemise claimed to have been worn by Marie Antoinette during her imprisonment, 101 x 83 x 67 Musee Carnavalet, Paris, France

Chemise claimed to have been worn by Marie Antoinette during her imprisonment, 101 x 83 x 67 Musee Carnavalet, Paris, France

Chemise, 1840—59, American, linen, Metropolitan Museum of Art

Chemise, 1840—59, American, linen, Metropolitan Museum of Art

Corsets (and stays and jumps, but not, of course, swiss waists):

Waistcoat (probably of the type also known as jumps) England, ca. 1745, Silk quilted and bound with grosgrain silk ribbon and braid, with boned canvas, Victoria & Albert Museum

Waistcoat (probably of the type also known as jumps) England, ca. 1745, Silk quilted and bound with grosgrain silk ribbon and braid, with boned canvas, Victoria & Albert Museum  

Petticoats and slips:

Petticoat, 1855—65, American, cotton, Metropolitan Museum of Art

Petticoat, 1855—65, American, cotton, Metropolitan Museum of Art

'Utility' slip and cami-knickers, rayon, England, 1940s

‘Utility’ slip and cami-knickers, rayon, England, 1940s  

Drawers and pantalets and tap pants:

Tap pants & Brassiere by Boue Soeurs, French, 1920's via Vintage Textiles

Tap pants & Brassiere by Boue Soeurs, French, 1920’s via Vintage Textiles

Hoopskirts and bustles and bum rumps:

Hoopskirt, corset & wedding dress, mid-1860s, Museum of London

Hoopskirt, corset & wedding dress, mid-1860s, Museum of London

Bum rump, 1785, Lewis Walpole Library

Bum rump, 1785, Lewis Walpole Library

Plus garters and stockings and lots of other little bits!

Stockings, 1870, French, cotton, Metropolitan Museum of Art

Stockings, 1870, French, cotton, Metropolitan Museum of Art

To sum it up, if it goes under your garments, it qualifies!

For more inspiration, I have some pinterest boards with undergarments sorted by date:

1700-1750  

1750-1790

1790-1820

1820-40

1840-70

1870-80

1890s

1900s

1910s

1920-40

38 Comments

  2. Catherine Raymond says

    pinterest.comMamillares (the supportive breast band worn by the Romans) and subligars (the “bikini” underpants worn by the Romans) too! Also the odd vest-like breast supporting garments from the Lengberg find (there’s quite a few blog posts featuring recreations already, including these):

    http://katafalk.wordpress.com/2013/08/22/lengberg-castle-brassiere-it-works/
    http://www.pinterest.com/pin/356980707933771112/
    http://daisyviktoria.deviantart.com/art/15th-Century-Lengberg-Bra-317608101
    http://craftyagatha.com/15th-century-lingerie

  3. Quinn says

    I love a lot of the chemise-type items, but speaking as a sock-knitter, those colorful cotton stockings really made me smile!

    • The Dreamstress says

      Aren’t they fabulous? I wish I knew how to knit well enough to make them, but I’m playing with some ideas with sewn and painted stretch knit silk.

  7. Morag says

    Just wondering: do 18th century pockets count for this challenge?

  8. Donna says

    I’ve finally completed a challenge! This one! How/where do I post the images?

  20. Ca. 1860 Corset For ME! (HSF #4) | The Quintessential Clothes Pen says

    […] I’m a few days late completing my project for the HSF Challenge #4: Under It All. I tried really hard on this one and was definitely  motivated to keep working consistently by the […]

    [WORDPRESS HASHCASH] The comment’s server IP (66.155.8.63) doesn’t match the comment’s URL host IP (192.0.80.250) and so is spam.

  24. Prentice says

    I finished the challenge, I made the American Duchess’s Ugly Puffer, a under garment support.

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