The fourth Historical Sew Fortnightly challenge for 2014, due March 1, is the first repeat of a ’13 Challenge theme: Under It All.
This theme is all about the foundations to a garment: the things that go under it to provide the right shape and support, and to protect your fancy outer garments from sweat and grime.
What could you make?
Chemises and shifts:
Chemise claimed to have been worn by Marie Antoinette during her imprisonment, 101 x 83 x 67 Musee Carnavalet, Paris, France
Chemise, 1840—59, American, linen, Metropolitan Museum of Art
Corsets (and stays and jumps, but not, of course, swiss waists):
Waistcoat (probably of the type also known as jumps) England, ca. 1745, Silk quilted and bound with grosgrain silk ribbon and braid, with boned canvas, Victoria & Albert Museum
Petticoats and slips:
Petticoat, 1855—65, American, cotton, Metropolitan Museum of Art
‘Utility’ slip and cami-knickers, rayon, England, 1940s
Drawers and pantalets and tap pants:
Tap pants & Brassiere by Boue Soeurs, French, 1920’s via Vintage Textiles
Hoopskirts and bustles and bum rumps:
Hoopskirt, corset & wedding dress, mid-1860s, Museum of London
Bum rump, 1785, Lewis Walpole Library
Plus garters and stockings and lots of other little bits!
Stockings, 1870, French, cotton, Metropolitan Museum of Art
To sum it up, if it goes under your garments, it qualifies!
For more inspiration, I have some pinterest boards with undergarments sorted by date:
Mammillares (the supportive breast band worn by the Romans) and subligars (the “bikini” underpants worn by the Romans) too!
Thanks so much Cathy! I really appreciate you adding suggestions for the earlier garments that I’m not so familiar with.
pinterest.comMamillares (the supportive breast band worn by the Romans) and subligars (the “bikini” underpants worn by the Romans) too! Also the odd vest-like breast supporting garments from the Lengberg find (there’s quite a few blog posts featuring recreations already, including these):
Thank you so much for those links, Catherine! I’m curious to make one of these things as I’m very impressed with Cathrin’s reconstruction on katafalk.wordpress. It gives a beautiful period shape.
You’re welcome, Stella!
I remember having seen a much simpler reconstruction of a slightly different type of supportive Lengberg garment, but I wasn’t able to find it this morning. If I do, I’ll comment again with the link.
Found it! Here’s the other Lengberg bust supporter reconstruction I was thinking of:
Ah yes, I think I need one of those, too! I’ve been thinking about lightweight woven bras for summerwear for a long time, and the 15th century one fits several of my needs. Thanks for reminding me, and linking to those recreations – Cathrin’s really does have some helpful pointers.
I love a lot of the chemise-type items, but speaking as a sock-knitter, those colorful cotton stockings really made me smile!
Aren’t they fabulous? I wish I knew how to knit well enough to make them, but I’m playing with some ideas with sewn and painted stretch knit silk.
[…] latest challenge issued is to sew a lovely undergarment. I am in dire need of a new set of stays, my white muslin petticoats are in tatters, and I […]
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Oh my I want those stockings!!!
[…] Underthingies: Well I ought to make Regency stays at some point in […]
Just wondering: do 18th century pockets count for this challenge?
Sure, they go under your clothes!
I’ve finally completed a challenge! This one! How/where do I post the images?
Yay, I made it, even in advance ! A pair of 1890’s drawers : http://green-martha.blogspot.fr/2014/02/hsf-4-under-it-all-sous-vpetements-1890.html
Fresh lingerie every day!!! That is the plan.
I was able to finish my chemise though I’m not satisfied completely. I will redo it.
I only finished one of my planned garments this fortnight, a 1940’s bra. Posted here:
I shared my 1920’s side hoops for my Robe de Style.
My blog has moved so my 1920’s panniers can now be found here:
Hey….I have completed this challenge! An 1820’s shift!
[…] The Challenge: #4 Under It All […]
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I finally got the pictures up! Mom wore them last night to a fancy dress dinner. 🙂
I finished this at 11:58pm on March 1st, so just in time! It’s a very late 18th (or early 19th) century shift.
I finished a long term UFO in the form of a renaissance shirt. Thanks for the challenge! http://uddormsdotter.blogspot.se/2014/03/hsf14-challenge-4-under-it-all.html
[…] I’m a few days late completing my project for the HSF Challenge #4: Under It All. I tried really hard on this one and was definitely motivated to keep working consistently by the […]
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Better late than never. I’ve finished a new ca. 1860 corset!
Finishing touches done!
I made a shirt.
As usual, it’s late.
I finished the challenge, I made the American Duchess’s Ugly Puffer, a under garment support.
A bit late, but better late than never.
Presenting the Bedskirt Petticoat
I finally got the Picture from my Camera. The Smock has been finished in the last week of Febuary, I just couldn’t post it:
I finally got this posted. It can take me so long to get to this.
I made a slip for my 1930s outfit for this challenge. I got it done on time. but as usual spending time on the net is not that high a priority. I am glad that I am getting as much posting done as I am.
This is one of the few sights I am spending time on and am enjoying everyones posts, often in awe.