Some construction details on my Frou Frou Francaise sleeves and sleeve ruffles, for those who are interested. And some photos of Felicity, for those who are interested 😉
I based my sleeve pattern on the from Janet Arnold’s Patterns of Fashion
The construction is a basic sew-three-layers-together-and-then-use-the-outer-fabric-to-hide-all-the-seam-allowances construction. I don’t know if there is a less-wordy 18th c name for it!
The fun part of sleeves, is, of course, sleeve ruffles!
I based the punch pattern on my sleeve ruffles on this sacque in the V&A.
There is a close-up image of the sleeve details in the 18th century Historical Fashion in Detail book (page 176 if you want to see it), but this image of the petticoat ruffle should give you a good idea of what the punch detailing looks like.
To create my pattern I used the sleeve ruffle patterns from the American Duchess book (in retrospect I really wish I’d used the ruffle that corresponds with the Janet Arnold sleeve, but oh well) , and sketched out a punch design.
I poked holes in it, and used a pencil to transfer them to my sleeve ruffles, flipping the pattern over to create a symmetrical design.
I then pinned all four of my sleeve ruffles together, so I could punch all four of them at once.
Because I wanted very small punch holes, I tried simply poking them with a large needle, but they closed when I pulled and manipulated the fabric.
So I turned to my awesome leather punch, and used the smallest setting of that for my tiniest holes, and a larger setting for contrast holes.
The leather punch needs something with squish to punch into in order to get through the crisp taffeta, so I used some scrap leather for that.
With the ruffles punched, it was time to gather!
It was time for a cat mandated petting break!
Look at that little face! How could I possibly deny it?
Cat duties satisfied, it was time for gathering!
I sewed two lines of whip-gathering into the sleeves, pinning and adjusting the gathers to fit the bottom of the sleeves as I went. (Amber of Lady of the Wilderness & Virgils Fine Goods put me on to the idea of using safety pins for securing things as I work and it’s pretty much the best thing ever).
It was a fun thing to do while hanging out with Mr D.
And Miss F!
And here is the finished result!
Aaaaaand…the whole sleeve is about 3″ too long, and possibly a little too big, though I’m trying to decide if that’s just my modern sensibilities talking.
More on the sleeve fit later.