Latest Posts

Orba Shoes thedreamstress.com

A love letter to my Orba shoes

This is not a sponsored post.  I have no affiliation with Orba shoes. They have no idea I’m writing this.  It’s just that sometimes when you like a product so much you could almost kiss it, you need to share!

Orba Shoes thedreamstress.com - 9

Mistletoe on the ground, Valašské Meziříčí, Czechia.  This was the first time I’ve ever seen real mistletoe!

(almost.  I’m from the Pacific.  We don’t kiss things that go on our feet, or put them on tables, or stage them with food.).

In planning my Europe trip I realised I really needed good walking shoes which I could wear with any outfit.  I scoured Wellington, but the shoe gods did not smile on me.

Then I saw an ad for Orba shoes on FB, and thought: “Oooh!  Totally eco-friendly, biodegradable, NZ based company, and cute?  I should try these!”

Orba Shoes thedreamstress.com

Going down the tower stairs of Pernštejn Castle, Nedvědice, Czechia

They arrived just before my trip and I (foolishly – although sometimes fools get lucky!) only wore them once before flying.

And then I was in Sweden, and scared to wear them because what if they weren’t comfortable after a few hours?  After a day ruining my feet and knees trotting round the Vasa Museet and Nordiska Museet in shoes with not enough support, I had to risk it.     The next day we were trotting round Gamla stan (Stockholm’s old town) and Livrustkammaren and I could not afford feet trouble right at the start of my trip.

Orba Shoes thedreamstress.com

Gamla Stan, Stockholm, Sweden

Y’all, these are the best shoes in the world for walking on cobblestone streets in.  The wavy channels in the soles just absorbs all the impact and gives your feet the most delightful massage as you walk.

I was so enthralled by the little mini trampolines in my shoes that I started bouncing from stone to stone to feel the squish, much to the amusement of Elisa, who suddenly found herself accompanying a middle-aged tourist-turned-toddler through the city.

Orba Shoes thedreamstress.com

On the old stone paths of Skansen, Stockholm, Sweden

I loved them so much that I started photographing my shoes on all the cool road surfaces of Europe.

The shoes were just as good in Paris & Essen and Dusseldorf in Germany, where they kept my feet cool and comfortable as I racked up an average of 20,000 steps a day in 30c heat, trotting round the city and through museums.  I have circulation issues, and my feet swell badly at anything above 24c, but these coped with the whole range of feet sizes!

Orba Shoes thedreamstress.com

Clockwise from top left corner: on the way to the Musée Galliera, Paris; in the courtyard of the Hǒtel de Sully, Paris; in Villa Hügel, Essen, Germany; at the Abbaye de Saint-Germain-des-Prés (the oldest church in Paris)

They got to walk through Roman baths in the Musée de Cluny:

Orba Shoes thedreamstress.com

The Roman thermae, Musée de Cluny

And pose with artificial waterfalls (and patisserie!) in the wonderland of Victorian follies that is the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont.

Orba Shoes thedreamstress.com

In the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, Paris

In Germany they got trotted round museums and parks and palaces and through reproduction coal mines:

Orba Shoes thedreamstress.com

In the reproduction mine of the Deutsches Bergbau-Museum Bochum (the German Mining Museum).

The only time I got blisters in them was my first day in Prague.  It was 34c.  We walked more than 20,000 steps.  I somehow thought it would be smart to wear little nylon socklets instead of cotton socks, because they were thinner, and thus, cooler?  I’m pretty sure the heat had already fried my brain when I made that decision…

My feet swelled terribly, the socklets rubbed, and I ended up with a truly spectacular blister on one big toe.

Orba Shoes thedreamstress.com

Beautiful drain covers in Prague, Czechia

But you know what?  A band aid on the blister, and the shoes were so good it never popped!  Not in a further 10 days of travelling all around Czechia and doing SO MUCH walking.

Orba Shoes thedreamstress.com

Clockwise from top left: two amazing floors in the Lycise Chateau, Lycise, Czechia; on a carpet made in the Moravská gobelínová manufaktura, Valašské Meziříčí, Czechia; in Prague

After a month of walking an average of 20,000 steps a day, in heat and rain and dust, my shoes were looking a little tired by the time I made it back to NZ, but I loved them so much I immediately bought a second pair, and turned my first pair into my daily walk pair.

And now I wear the second pair almost every single day at work, where they are exactly what I need for running up and down stairs all day.

As a textile nerd I love that they are made of linen, ramie, and kenaf, plus cork, coir, agave sisal, natural rubber, rice husks, and coconut oil.  I tell my textile students about kenaf, but I think this is the only wearable kenaf I’ve ever owned.

Orba’s shoes originally came in white only, but they just did a pre-order for a launch of black and black with white accents shoes, and I am so excited!  (did I order one of each?  Why yes I did!)

Anyway, I love them. I highly recommend them. If you click this link I’ve hopefully done everything correctly for you to get $35 off your first order from them:

Link to Orba

Cutting out the Cassandra Stays thedreamstress.com

The Cassandra Stays Sew Along: Cutting Out & Basting

Previously on The Cassandra Stays Sew Along:

 

You’ve chosen your fabrics, made some buckram for the historical version, made a mock-up, fitted it to your figure, and transferred all your alterations to your pattern.  Now it’s time to cut your fabric!

Cutting Out

First, double-triple-quadruple check that you have made all your alterations to your pattern piece.  In English we say ‘measure twice, cut once’.  I had a sewing student from Latvia, and she said in Latvia they say ‘measure seven times, cut once’.  That’s my kind of risk-adverse cutting!

There’s no big tips for cutting out stays: you’re working with nice stable fabric that shouldn’t be too tricky.

If you’re doing the historical version I like to cut my buckram first, and use it as a template for the other pieces, as it doesn’t fray or warp at all.

Cutting out the Cassandra Stays thedreamstress.com

Then I cut the inner support layer:

Cutting out the Cassandra Stays thedreamstress.com

And finally the outer fabric:

Cutting out the Cassandra Stays thedreamstress.com

My outer fabric is directional and has a large-scale pattern, so I had to place all my pattern pieces so the top was heading in the same direction, and ensure that the pattern would flow nicely around the stays.

To check this, I chalked around each pattern piece before I cut out, and checked that the motifs fell in an attractive pattern.

Cutting out the Cassandra Stays thedreamstress.com

Basting:

Now that you are done cutting out, it’s time to assemble the layers in preparation for sewing the boning channels.

I’m using the historical fabrics, so here are my layers:

  1. Linen Damask
  2. Midweight Linen
  3. Linen Buckram

Cutting out the Cassandra Stays thedreamstress.com

I lay them on top of each other, and then baste around them to hold all three layers together:

Cutting out the Cassandra Stays thedreamstress.com

I’m using a contrasting cotton thread, so it’s easy to see, and making sure to baste in the seam allowances, so my basting is out of the way of the boning channels

Cutting out the Cassandra Stays thedreamstress.com

Cutting out the Cassandra Stays thedreamstress.com

Do it for all your pieces, and then you are ready for the next big exciting step: boning channels!

Day dress of cut velvet and patterned silk, c. 1885 Sold by Augusta Auctions, Spring Sartorial Surprise - Visions of Vintage, May, 2022 Sturbridge, MA

Rate the Dress: 1880s cut velvet

I haven’t quite managed to get Rate the Dress back on a same-time-same-day-of-the-week schedule, but at least it’s happening weekly-ish, give or take a day or two.  Let’s find out how you like this weeks(ish) offering of an 1880s day dress that blends simplicity and extravagance.

Last week:  the Marchesa a la modé in puce and coral

Everyone appreciated the Marchesa’s portrait last week, and the way it clearly showed her personality and interests.  Most of you also appreciated her very fashionable outfit, but not everyone was entirely on-board.  Things that came in for criticism were the too-plain skirt, the contrasting colours, and the skirt clips.

A number of commenters noted that they hadn’t ever noticed skirt clips like that before, and I know of at least a handful of images with them off the top of my head, so I’ve added a post about 18th century bodice clips to my (very, very long) to-do list.

The Total: 8.5 out of 10

Things continue to approve!  I’m pleased that you enjoyed discussing the Marchesa’s very trendy outfit, even if it wasn’t to your personal taste.

This week: A very-fitted 1880s dress in cut velvet

As not everyone was a fan of the bold and clashing hues in last week’s Rate the Dress, and felt that there was too much expanse of plain fabric, this week I’ve opted for the opposite.  This 1880s day dress features bold patterning in very subdued tones.

Day dress of cut velvet and patterned silk, c. 1885 Sold by Augusta Auctions, Spring Sartorial Surprise - Visions of Vintage, May, 2022 Sturbridge, MA

Day dress of cut velvet and patterned silk, c. 1885 Sold by Augusta Auctions, Spring Sartorial Surprise – Visions of Vintage, May, 2022 Sturbridge, MA

The bold patterning is balanced both by the muted colours, and by a very severe, fitted silhouette, which bursts out into typical 1880s extravagance only at the hem, cuffs, and in the draping of the bustle.

Day dress of cut velvet and patterned silk, c. 1885 Sold by Augusta Auctions, Spring Sartorial Surprise - Visions of Vintage, May, 2022 Sturbridge, MA

Day dress of cut velvet and patterned silk, c. 1885 Sold by Augusta Auctions, Spring Sartorial Surprise – Visions of Vintage, May, 2022 Sturbridge, MA

The fabric may be subdued in colours, but it’s very detailed and dynamic up close:

Day dress of cut velvet and patterned silk, c. 1885 Sold by Augusta Auctions, Spring Sartorial Surprise - Visions of Vintage, May, 2022 Sturbridge, MA

Day dress of cut velvet and patterned silk, c. 1885 Sold by Augusta Auctions, Spring Sartorial Surprise – Visions of Vintage, May, 2022 Sturbridge, MA

Day dress of cut velvet and patterned silk, c. 1885 Sold by Augusta Auctions, Spring Sartorial Surprise - Visions of Vintage, May, 2022 Sturbridge, MA

Day dress of cut velvet and patterned silk, c. 1885 Sold by Augusta Auctions, Spring Sartorial Surprise – Visions of Vintage, May, 2022 Sturbridge, MA

The layout of the pattern means it could not be mirrored across the seams of the bodice, but the dressmaker has made an effort to balance the pattern and create as much symmetry as possible.

Day dress of cut velvet and patterned silk, c. 1885 Sold by Augusta Auctions, Spring Sartorial Surprise - Visions of Vintage, May, 2022 Sturbridge, MA

Day dress of cut velvet and patterned silk, c. 1885 Sold by Augusta Auctions, Spring Sartorial Surprise – Visions of Vintage, May, 2022 Sturbridge, MA

The bodice would probably have been worn with a small ruffle of white or cream lace at the neck.

What do you think?  Is this an attractive balance of 1880s extravagance and subtlety?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

A reminder about rating — feel free to be critical if you don’t like a thing, but make sure that your comments aren’t actually insulting to those who do like a garment.  Phrase criticism as your opinion, rather than a flat fact. Our different tastes are what make Rate the Dress so interesting.  It’s no fun when a comment implies that anyone who doesn’t agree with it, or who would wear a garment, is totally lacking in taste.

As usual, nothing more complicated than a .5.  I also hugely appreciate it if you only do one rating, and set it on a line at the very end of your comment.