Silk and rayon velvets were very popular in 1930s fashion, particularly for evening wear. Last week I showed you a devoré velvet gown in royal blue (the most fashionable colour for velvet). This week Elise’s gift is another velvet item, but in a much more unusual colour.
Isn’t the colour scrumptious? Silk velvet in that colour is top of my fabric wish-list at the moment.
The jacket is a lovely example of the Renaissance influence on 1930s fashion. You can see it in the puffed upper sleeves, and in the padded, sculptural collar.
The sleeve puffs are controlled and structured over the shoulders with rows of gathering stitches.
The controlled gathers at the top of the sleeve turn into soft, unstructured gathers at the bottom of the poof, so it droops gracefully over the slim lower sleeve.
Lines of gathering stitches also keep the ruching of the puffed collar
As you may have guessed from the elaborate and clever cutting and shaping of the jacket, this garment, unlike the blue devoré dress, probably isn’t a homemade article.
It doesn’t have a label inside, so either it has been taken off, or the jacket was made by a very skilled seamstress who didn’t label her work.
Commercial or skilled seamstress, I really want to recreate this jacket. First, because I love the colour, second because it is so clever and cunning and darling, and finally because of this:
Sadly, the jacket is in terrible condition. It’s got small holes on most of the proper right half, extensive damage on the PR collar, and is missing huge portions of the PR sleeve.
While the damage is sad, and makes the garment unwearable, and un-displayable, it does have the lovely advantage of really allowing the construction details to be studied.
The collar is padded out with loose cotton wadding, held in with a cotton mesh . The cotton wadding is quite natural – very lightly processed.
The sleeves are interlined with a very lightweight cotton muslin which has slight overall foxing.
All of the interlining adds a little support and structure to the very soft velvet, but without adding weight or making it too stiff.
So that’s the jacket: lovely but damaged.
I can just imagine how it would look over a really simple 1930s evening dress like my wedding dress. Mmmm…yummy!
I’ll keep you updated if I ever find that leaf green silk velvet!