It’s Rate the Dress time! This week we move from exoticism to modernism. How will the transition go?
Last week: an 1840s evening gown with Ottoman-esque embroidery
Not only did most of you like last week’s 1840s gold-& floral embroidered evening gown, but the comments unearthed lots of fascinating information about it, and Ottoman inspired embroidery. Go have a read of them!
There were a few niggles about the ‘clunky’ gold trim down the front of the dress, so which brought the rating down a wee bit.
The total: 8.1 out of 10
Not too bad!
This week: an early ’20s Doucet ensemble
We usually associate Doucet with his frothy Edwardian creations, but he was designing well into the 1920s. His garments continued to change with, and reflect the times, while always linking back to the same passion.
Doucet, above all, was an art connoisseur. His fashion creations were influenced and inspired by his love of art. He continued to keep abreast of the latest innovations in art, and particularly loved Cubism. He bought directly from artists such as Picasso, and owned an amazing collection of works, including Les Demoiselles d’Avignon.
This 1920s ensemble reflects Doucet’s interest in Cubism.
The angular lines of the skirt joins are interrupted by the straight waistband, creating a purposefully disjointed effect. The slight colour variation between the skirt and the top is just defined enough to create visual contrast, without being so different that the contrast is jarring.
The symmetrical beading of the bodice provides further contrast with the angled skirt lines, and highlights the vertical lines of the dress.
The diamond beading of the bodice plays with female anatomy, and highlights the fashionable low and flat bust of the early 20s.
The dress is topped by a cape, adding more curves and angles to the silhouette:
The cape’s beaded collar draws the eye up to the wearer’s face. The sharp points at the hem of the cape along with the wide pleats of the skirt, would swing and move with the wearer.
While visually very different to the Edwardian gowns with layers of ruffles and delicate fabric that Doucet is best known for, this is still a typical Doucet creation in its attention to detail, beautiful handwork, and subtle contrast of colours.
What do you think? Is this a work of wearable art? Or did Doucet struggle to move with the times and update his style appropriately?
Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10
(as usual, nothing more complicated than a .5. I also hugely appreciate it if you only do one rating, and set it on a line at the very end of your comment, so I can find it! Thanks in advance!)