To recreate Aline Charigot’s ensemble from Renoir’s 1883 painting By the Seashore, now in the collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York City. The outfit celebrates Aline’s skill and imagination as a dressmaker and milliner, and the added touch that her choice of fabrics and trimmings gave to Renoir’s paintings.
As much as possibly the ensemble was based directly on what is seen in Renoir’s painting, backed up by research on ca. 1880 patterns and construction for the type of garments shown in the painting. As the whole skirt is not visible in the portrait, I had to extrapolate what it might have looked like based on other artworks and photographs of the same period, as well as extent garments. Additional skirt details and inspiration for the first skirt were taken from Tissot’s 1883 painting The Bridesmaid.
The second skirt was inspired by a 1879 painting of Jeanne Samary by Jules Bastien Lepage, as well as the accompanying photoshoot that shows Jeanne in the outfit she wore to pose for the painting sessions. Additional research and inspiration came from an 1886 ensemble in the Metropolitan Museum of Art
The bonnet was based on a ca. 1880 bonnet of similar shape in the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
|By the Seashore, Renoir, 1883||The Bridesmaid, Tissot, 1882||Jeanne Samary, Bastien-Lepage, 1879|
|Cotton dress, ca. 1880, Met Museum||Luncheon (detail of Aline), 1880, Renoir||Straw bonnet, ca. 1880, Met Museum|
Jacket of Prussian blue linen-cotton blend. Jacket lined in cotton with cotton lace and vintage buttons to trim. Skirt 1 of beige and blue tartan cotton voile over a cotton canvas base. Skirt 2 of blue and white tartan cotton over a cotton broadcloth base.
Bonnet of prussian blue linen-cotton over buckram base, lined in indigo-violet silk, and trimmed with tartan ribbons, white cotton broderie anglaise lace, and rosettes of silk trimmings in shades of blue and violet.
The Dress Diary:
Jacket construction and fitting
Jacket and skirt construction and details
The finished ensemble and a photoshoot
At the Capturing the Mode talk
Aline’s ensemble at a Dr Who ball
Research and Resources:
- Arnold, Janet. Patterns of Fashion Vol. 2: Englishwomen’s Dresses and Their Construction, c.1860-1940. New York : Drama Publications, 1997.
- Blum, Stella. Victorian fashions and costumes from Harper’s bazar, 1867-1898. New York : Dover Publications, 1974.
- Cartledge, Pamela. Dress for All Occasions: Women’s Costumes from the 1880s and 1890s. Hartford, CT: Conn. Historical Society, 1987.
- Cunnington, C. Willett. English Women’s Clothing in the Nineteenth Century. New York: Dover Publications, 1990.
- Ewing, Elizabeth. Everyday Dress, 1650-1900. London: Batsford, 1984.
- Hunnisett, Jean. Period Costume for Stage and Screen: Patterns for Women’s Dress, 1800-1909. Studio City, NY: Players Press, 1991.
- Johnston, Lucy. Nineteenth-Century Fashion in Detail. London: V&A Publications, 2005.
- Ribeiro, Aileen. The Art of Dress: Fashion in England and France 1750 to 1820. New Haven: Yale University Press, 1995.