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Evening dress by an unknown maker (possibly British), 1913-1914, silk, linen, glass, metal, National Museum of Art, Architecture and Design, Oslo

Rate the Dress: Salmon pink and bold black, 1913-1914

It’s been another exciting week for me, with way too much work (luckily I love my students & patternmaking), and way too many chores to do, and then a plumbing disaster on top of everything else.

But I finally have an evening to relax, and am sitting on the couch in my new favourite pants, with Felicity curled in a contented ball in front of the heaters.  Bean soup is simmering on the stove (which means I won’t have to cook for the next three days – the dream!).  All is, if not right, at least momentarily not-terrible with the world.  And it’s the perfect time to write Rate the Dress.

Last week:  an 1860s dress in pale pastel pink with bold black trimmings.

Last week’s pink and black colour scheme won universal approval, but you were less unified on what parts of the dress you liked, and what parts you didn’t like.  Some of you loved every part of the dress.  Some loved the bodice but thought the stripes on the skirt were overpowering.  And some thought the skirt was perfection, but the black bertha was just-too-much.

But everybody liked at least something about the dress, so that’s a win!

The Total: 8.5 out of 10

A point and a decimal point up from last week!  That’s an improvement

This week: A 1913-1914 dress in salmon pink and black with silver lace.

I’m sticking with the pink and black colour scheme of last week, but pushing out the boat with a deep salmon pink that is almost orange, and adding in some ivory and silver, as well as a bit of patterning, with this evening dress from 1913-1914:

Evening dress by an unknown maker (possibly British),1913-1914, silk, linen, glass, metal, National Museum of Art, Architecture and Design, Oslo

Evening dress by an unknown maker (possibly British),1913-1914, silk, linen, glass, metal, National Museum of Art, Architecture and Design, Oslo

This dress has all the most fashionable features of 1913-14: a bold colour scheme, high-low hem, square train, tunic effect, metallic lace, pointed peplum (also seen in more casual garments like the Selina Blouse), slightly-higher-than-natural waist, kimono sleeves, V neck over-blouse over a straight under-bodice, tasseled sash, and layers of fabric and texture.  It’s the absolute epitome of high-end evening wear of its era.

Evening dress by an unknown maker (possibly British),1913-1914, silk, linen, glass, metal, National Museum of Art, Architecture and Design, Oslo

Evening dress by an unknown maker (possibly British),1913-1914, silk, linen, glass, metal, National Museum of Art, Architecture and Design, Oslo

Some online sources state that this dress was worn by Queen Maud of Norway, but I can’t find a definitive source for that, and it’s not one of the garments in Style and Splendour, the book about her wardrobe.

Evening dress by an unknown maker (possibly British), 1913-1914, silk, linen, glass, metal, National Museum of Art, Architecture and Design, Oslo

Evening dress by an unknown maker (possibly British), 1913-1914, silk, linen, glass, metal, National Museum of Art, Architecture and Design, Oslo

Whoever wore this dress, they weren’t afraid to stand out, or to embrace every single design fad, all at once.

Evening dress by an unknown maker (possibly British), 1913-1914, silk, linen, glass, metal, National Museum of Art, Architecture and Design, Oslo

Evening dress by an unknown maker (possibly British), 1913-1914, silk, linen, glass, metal, National Museum of Art, Architecture and Design, Oslo

What do you think?  Is this a gown suitable for a Queen…of fashion?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

A reminder about rating — feel free to be critical if you don’t like a thing, but make sure that your comments aren’t actually insulting to those who do like a garment.  Phrase criticism as your opinion, rather than a flat fact. Our different tastes are what make Rate the Dress so interesting.  It’s no fun when a comment implies that anyone who doesn’t agree with it, or who would wear a garment, is totally lacking in taste.

As usual, nothing more complicated than a .5.  I also hugely appreciate it if you only do one rating, and set it on a line at the very end of your comment.

The Scroop Patterns Cassandra Stays Sew-Along scrooppatterns.com

The Cassandra Stays Sew Along: Eyelets

Previously on The Cassandra Stays Sew Along:

It’s time for my favourite part of staymaking!  Eyelet time!

Seriously, I’m not kidding.  I love making eyelets.  There is something so relaxing and repetitive about it.

Marking the Eyelet Hole Placement:

First, mark the hole placement for your eyelets.  Use the pattern piece right side up for the Wearer’s Left side, and the template for the Wearer’s Right.

I like to fold my pattern piece and template through the centre of the eyelet marks, as shown below, to mark the eyelet spacing:

Scroop Cassandra Stays Eyelets thedreamstress.com

The Cassandra has offset lacing holes because both the historical and theatrical versions use spiral lacing.

Use something that will last to mark your holes: I like good old-fashioned pencil for this.  It will disappear into the hole anyway!

With your holes marked, choose whether you want to try working the holes with the lacing bones in, or out.  If you try one way and don’t like it, you can always take the bones out or put them in!

Scroop Cassandra Stays Eyelets thedreamstress.com

If you are doing a fully theatrical version with metal eyelets, install them as per the instructions in the manual and your eyelets/eyelet press.

Historical Eyelets

Use a tailors awl/stiletto to open your holes.  DO NOT punch your holes.  Any thread you cut or break weakens the eyelet.  Plus, it’s much harder to sew an eyelet around fraying cut edges than a nice strong pushed-apart thread hole.

A tapered tailors awl will make your job much easier than a straight awl.  I use the Clover tapered tailors awl.  It’s not a pretty historical thing, but it works really, really well.

Scroop Patterns Cassandra Stays Materials

Hand sewn eyelets sound fragile.  Will they really withstand strong lacing?

Yes, absolutely!  In my experience they are actually stronger and less likely to pull out than metal eyelets.  I’ve never had a hand-sewn eyelet tear out, but I’ve had many metal eyelets tear out. Ideally a metal eyelet should be set into a pushed-apart hole, but it’s often extraordinarily difficult to do that, so you end up punching a small hole, and weakening the fabric.

In addition to pulling out, I’ve seen metal eyelets cut through the threads on the outer layer of fabric over time.  Finally, it’s very hard to find eyelets today that crimp down without breaking the metal in some places, and the sharp edges of those breaks can wear on your lacing cord, scratch your skin, and catch on your underthings.

Hand sewn eyelets, on the other hand, can easily be worked in a hole without breaking a thread, making them very strong.   You can continue to use the awl to stretch open the hole as you sew.  The holes just need to be big enough to lace your cord through, and over time the lacing will open the holes just a little bit more.  The stretching action of the cord going through the hole will also compact the threads around the hole, making them stronger with wear.

I recommend using linen thread for sewing historical eyelets, as linen threads will compact together while cotton wears out, so they last longer.

Conclusion: Hand sewn eyelets are strong.

Scroop Cassandra Stays Eyelets thedreamstress.com

Here are my eyelets.  Those suckers are going to last forever!

Scroop Cassandra Stays Eyelets thedreamstress.com

Hope you enjoy working your eyelets!

Next up: we finally get to boning!

Scroop Persis Corset scrooppatterns.com

Edwardian Unders: what went under the Persis Corset samples

What do you need if you have a photoshoot with corset samples?  Pretty unders to wear with the corset – and which also have enough coverage to make the models feel comfortable!

I used the Persis Corset pattern shoot as an opportunity to play with different underthings patterns, and with the lace insertion techniques given in the Ettie Petticoat Pattern.  Because who doesn’t love lacy drawers?

I made three items to go with the Persis Corset samples: a chemise, drawers, and combinations.  My primary source for all three patterns was Cutting Out for Student Teachers (1906).  I also took inspiration from a number of other pattern books in my collection for trim ideas, and to refine the patterns for the best fit.

Cutting Out For Student Teachers thedreamstress.com

The Chemise & Drawers Unders Set worn with View B

Scroop Persis Corset View B scrooppatterns.com

For View B I decided on a separate chemise and drawers, to give the person who this set would eventually belong to (I don’t believe in making pattern samples that aren’t going to get used again!) the most flexibility.

For the shoot we tucked the chemise into the drawers.  This provided the model with a further layer of modesty, and allowed me to show off the pretty drawers.

Both chemise and drawers are made from very soft, lightweight striped cotton sateen, with matching lace on both.

Edwardian Underthings thedreamstress.com

The drawers are circular cut (which the book calls ‘American cut’, which I think is just delightful!), and have a lace trimmed ruffle attached to the hem with insertion lace

Edwardian Underthings thedreamstress.com

Attaching a ruffle with insertion work was a fun challenge, but it paid off.  I also love the way the stripes work with the circle cut of the drawers:

Edwardian Underthings thedreamstress.com

The drawers fasten at the front with a button, and have a clever drawstring at the back, to make them adjustable.  The drawstring technique is borrowed from a couple of extant petticoats in my collection, but I’ve also seen it on at least 1 pair of drawers.

Edwardian Underthings thedreamstress.com

The drawers are split drawers, but I machine basted them closed for the photoshoot for the comfort of the model.

Edwardian Underthings thedreamstress.com

The chemise features a square neckline, and a pointed yoke that echoes the neckline of View B.

Edwardian Underthings thedreamstress.com

Scroop Persis Corset View B scrooppatterns.com

I’d have to have a play with this, but I think it would be possible to leave out the inset and straight neckline of the yoke, to create a chemise with a lower sweetheart neckline.

Edwardian Underthings thedreamstress.com

The Combination Unders Worn with View A:

Scroop Persis Corset View A scrooppatterns.com

My inspiration for the combinations was this pair in the Metropolitan Museum of Art (just with slightly less insertion work!).  I liked the front fastening, brief bodice, and the angled outside legs with their bow trim.  This pair has similar elements, just without the side bows.

 

Edwardian Underthings thedreamstress.com

I used this beautiful broderie anglaise for the ruffle, and attached it with broderie anglaise beading trim.  A ribbon went through the beading with a bodkin to create the side bows:

Edwardian Underthings thedreamstress.com

I had exactly enough of the broderie anglaise trim left to create a decorative central panel for the bodice:

Edwardian Underthings thedreamstress.com

The middle is a placket which will have buttons.  The join of the lace to the bodice fabric is hidden with a tuck:

Edwardian Underthings thedreamstress.com

With all these pretty details this should rightly be a chemise to wear over a corset to smooth out the lines, rather than one worn under it.  With very narrow seams and finishing, and nice flat buttons, it was comfortable under a corset.

Edwardian Underthings thedreamstress.com

Scroop Persis Corset scrooppatterns.com

Conclusions, and a question…

I was very happy with how both of these turned out.   The models were comfortable, they look good, and the owner of the chemise and drawers is delighted with her new under set.*  What more could you ask for?

*Obviously it was well laundered and she knew it was used for this!

So, the question. Would you be interested in patterns for these items?

And the question is a hint about something that will be happening this week…