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Friday Reads: My Official Wife

When you find an old book with a title like ‘My Official Wife‘ for 50 cents at an op shop, how could you possibly pass it up?  Even if it’s terribly battered and slightly falling apart?  With that name, you just have to know what’s inside!

My Official Wife, book review thedreamstress.com

Little did I realise when I bought it that My Official Wife was once well known.  It was a bestseller when it was published in 1891, and made Savage a household name.

It’s also hilariously, awesomely, terrible.

My Official Wife was Richard Henry Savage’s first novel, and it draws heavily on his life.  Like Savage, the ‘hero’ (more on those quote marks later), Colonel Arthur Lenox, is a retired army man.  Both men had experience serving in forces all over the world, from their native US, to Egypt.  Savage & Lenox both had a single child, a daughter, who married a Russian noble & government official.

Colonel Lenox’s first visit to Russia to see his now-married daughter, and meet his extended family of highly-placed in-laws, precipitates the book’s action.  Mrs Lenox elects to remain in Paris, so Colonel Lenox travels alone on the passport that lists both himself, and his wife.  At the border an enchanting young lady who claims to be American (Miss Vanderbilt-Astor no less!), and to have misplaced her passport, convinces him to let her cross the border on his, as Mrs Lenox.  This subsequently turns out to be a huge problem for the Colonel, because passport fraud in Savage’s Russia is a quick ticket to Siberia.

My Official Wife, book review thedreamstress.com

The Colonel doesn’t worry about this at first, because he’s too busy being dazzled by his superlative new bride.  The new Mrs Lenox has, as an arsenal, every feminine wile the author could think of, actual brains, and the most spectacularly envy-inducing wardrobe of early 1890s couture.  Her trunks literally spill Pingat & Worth garments, from tea gowns to ball gowns.  The garments are described in rather nice detail, making for fun mental images for the historically costume inclined.

I could well imagine her ball dress, for the pivotal ball, looking much like this one (with the addition of a large and important pocket):

Evening Dress, House of Worth (French, 1858—1956), ca. 1890, 2009.300.635, Met

Lenox is easily taken in by the tea gowns and beguiling smiles.  He soon finds himself entirely out-maneuvred on every front by his newly acquired spouse, who has her own reasons for wanting to remain Mrs Lenox – at least officially.   Once he finally realises that the incredibly obvious is true, everything his new ‘wife’ has told him is a lie (she’s wasn’t even Miss Vanderbilt-Astor, gasp!), it’s too late.

As I read the book I tried to convince myself that Colonel Lenox must have been a satire of himself written by a clever and self-aware Savage.  Surely no-one would write a story where the hero is so clearly an author surrogate, and also so clearly pompous, vain, terribly chauvanistic (even by the standards of the late Victorian era) and hopelessly dumb, unless they intended it to be tongue-in-cheek?

The further I read, the more I realised, with mounting horror, that Savage the author clearly thought that Lenox-the-author-stand-in was smart and brave and quick witted.  In short, a hero the reader would identify with, admire, and cheer for.  When he wrote “I might have been surprised at her sudden change in manner had I not been accustomed to the peculiar freaks and emotions of womanhood, having made the fair sex my study – perhaps, I may say, my plaything”, he meant it, despite also having written a character who was easily deceived, even in the face of multiple obvious clues to the contrary, by a pretty face.

Savage’s hero could only be as clever as his author (and the plot holes suggest that Savage really wasn’t that clever), but he could have at least written a hero with an admirable character – and Lenox is not.  Lenox, upon finding that he’s brought a cuckoo into the diamond-lined nest of the Russian nobility, decides that if she’s going to pretend to be his wife, he’s going to take his full rights as husband (to use a really awful euphemism).  Not-Miss-V-A only manages to fight him off by saying that if he is a ‘man’ he won’t take advantage of a defenceless woman, and if he’s a coward he will.  He retreats, frustrated and angry, refusing to be a coward (because apparently that’s worse than a rapist?).  The part where he would have been cheating on his very-alive real wife doesn’t even cross his mind – thought what the real Mrs Lenox would think, knowing that she’s being represented by an imposter, is mentioned with much hand-wringing every time his Official Wife presents herself as ‘Mrs Lenox’.

Though My Official Wife was reasonably well reviewed in it’s own time, critics did note that it was improbable, and the writing more verbose than polished.  Savage’s numerous subsequent books were almost universally savaged.  His heroes and spy systems were “incredibly idiotic and futile“, and his writing so notoriously sensationalist that reviewers mocked it at length (this one is particularly funny)

Despite the florid writing, unpalatable hero, and the tone-deaf author, the book is a fascinating look at Russian politics during the last two decades of the 19th century.  It provides an interesting (if probably sensationalised)  depiction of how reactionary and restrictive Russia was under the extremely conservative Alexander III.  The Tzar spent most of his reign attempting to reverse all of the liberal reforms of his father, who had been assasinated.  The plot revolves around  lasting effects of Nihilism and the White Terror and the longer-term repercussions of Russian subjugation of Jews and reprisals in Poland & Lithuania in response to the January Uprising.   Savage’s writing hardly does the heftier topics justice, nor are his sympathies and moralities likely to appeal to modern audiences, but as a glimpse into how the topics were presented in a pop-culture format in the Victorian era, it’s worth a read.

And the clothes descriptions are amazing!

Emile Pingat, mantle, 1891, Metropolitan Museum of Art   2009.300.337

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Woman's Ensemble (Cape, Blouse, and Skirt) Gilbert Adrian (United States, active California, Los Angeles, 1903-1959) United States, California, 1945, Rayon plain weave (crepe), rayon satin-back crepe, 56.14.5a-c

Rate the Dress: Wearing Adrian’s Modern Museum

This week Rate the Dress is all about innovation: a very modern outfit, inspired by very modern art, paired with something I’ve never done in Rate the Dress before: the same ensemble from two different museums.

Last week:  A harlequin print 1820s dress

Some of you found last week’s red & yellow 1820s number as much a harbinger of joy as I did, but not everyone was convinced.  Some of you, in fact, found it a source of vexation – you couldn’t get on board with the mix of grainlines, and the seemingly arbitrary tucked seams.  And others just hated the fabric and silhouette.

The Total: 6.6 out of 10

How evil

This week: A cubist inspired Gilbert Adrian evening ensemble

This week’s Rate the Dress pick is a 1945 Gilbert Adrian evening ensemble from his Modern Museum Collection.

In addition to fabulous costumes for Hollywood movies, Adrian designed glamorous ready-to-wear outfits – often with a very theatrical twist.

Because Adrian’s outfits were ready-to-wear, they existed in multiples, and copies of some of his most famous designs are held in more than one museum collection.  This Cubist inspired ensemble was displayed when he received the third annual American Fashion Critics Award in February 1945, and I can show you examples of it from both the Metropolitan Museum of Art, and the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.

The Met says of the ensemble:

With a palette inspired by Cubism, Adrian extended the abstractions of his earlier designs of the 1940s. Harper’s Bazaar described this series as, “intricate as a puzzle and as modern as Picasso.” Exploiting the dynamism of the Futurists and the geometric minimalism of the Constructivists, the interconnecting cell-like shapes reflect an abstract bimorphism. Adrian, however, eschewed the utopianism of the Futurist and Constructivist movements with a design philosophy that was firmly grounded in the realities of American life.

From a less artistic perspective the ensemble gives a nod to current affairs, with motifs that reflect camouflage (bringing fashion, art, and camouflage full circle, as the first modern wartime camouflage, Dazzle, was partly created by cubist artists, and would inspire its own fashion), and fabric piecing that could be emulated by a thrifty and ambitious seamstress who needed to ‘make do and mend’.

This was definitely not a dress for the conservative or classic dresser, but for a bold and imaginative woman, would it have been a striking an inspired choice, or a fashion miss?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

A reminder about rating — feel free to be critical if you don’t like a thing, but make sure that your comments aren’t actually insulting to those who do like a garment.  Our different tastes are what make Rate the Dress so interesting, but it’s no fun when a comment implies that anyone who doesn’t agree with it, or who would wear a garment, is crazy/totally lacking in taste.

(as usual, nothing more complicated than a .5.  I also hugely appreciate it if you only do one rating, and set it on a line at the very end of your comment, so I can find it!  Thanks in advance!)

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The Otari Hoodie by Scroop Patterns, sewn by Show & Tell Meg

The Scroop Otari Hoodie – Tester Makes!

I had the BEST group of testers for the Scroop Patterns Otari Hoodie.  Not only did they provide really thoughtful, considered feedback about the pattern and instructions, but they made the most fabulous hoodies.

Here are the tester makes!

Show and Tell Meg  @showandtellmeg

I am in love with Meg’s Amy Butler confetti print, and especially the way she extended the pocket lining to provide a contrast to the View B pocket edges.  It’s not something I covered in the pattern, but I’ll do a tutorial on how to do it.

The Otari Hoodie by Scroop Patterns, sewn by Show & Tell Meg

Do check out Meg’s blog post.  Her finishing details are utterly delightful – especially the cotton tape she used to finish the zip interior.

Life in a Mads House @wronghandmads

Mads tagged her hoodie #beetlejuicegoals and I am 100% there for that!  Dark teal + black and white stripes is a total win.  Plus wrote a fantastic and very comprehensive blog post about her hoodie, with excellent photos (ESPECIALLY the very last one!)

The Otari Hoodie by Scroop Patterns, sewn by Life in a Mads House @wronghandsmad

The Otari Hoodie by Scroop Patterns, sewn by Life in a Mads House @wronghandsmad

Nicki @mrsnickipea  

The mix of classic sweatshirting colours and the quirky View B pocket on Nicki’s hoodie is excellent – it suddenly makes it very graphic and abstract:

The Otari Hoodie by Scroop Patterns, by @mrsnickipea

And what adorable trim for the zip finish!

The Otari Hoodie by Scroop Patterns, by @mrsnickipea

The Sewing Goatherd @thesewinggoatherd

I love the fabrics Alyssa’s chose for her version of the Otari Hoodie – the floral on turquoise & vivid orange-pink hem and cuff bands are just delicious.

The Otari Hoodie by Scroop Patterns, sewn by The Sewing Goatherd @thesewinggoatherd

Also, her photos include baby goats!  (all the squees of happiness!)

 

The Otari Hoodie by Scroop Patterns, sewn by The Sewing Goatherd @thesewinggoatherd

Errant Pear

Thanks to Errant Pear, I’m now on the lookout for an Otari suitable fabric in black and white with a wide and narrow stripe.

The Otari Hoodie by Scroop Patterns, sewn by Errant Pear

It’s absolutely perfect!  And it looks fabulous in View A!

The Otari Hoodie by Scroop Patterns, sewn by Errant Pear

 

Smash the Stash @Nina Virgo

Nina hasn’t taken pretty photos of her Otari yet, but here is a mannequin shot, and it’s worth showing – because look at that contrast stitching!

The Otari Hoodie by Scroop Patterns, by @ninavirgo

I’ve seen it in person because Nina lives in Wellington and is a great friend (and just plain wonderful)    .  She’s also one of my regular testers.  I like to use some of the same testers for every pattern, so I know I’ll get a consistent line of feedback through each pattern.

Claire

I love Claire’s classic navy version, with just a pop of pattern in the hood:

The Otari Hoodie by Scroop Patterns, by Claire P

The Otari Hoodie by Scroop Patterns, by Claire P

Claire’s hoodie also got that all-important cat-stamp seal of approval! Cwtch wants one too!

The Otari Hoodie by Scroop Patterns, by Claire P

Kat Makes @katklebenow

Kat’s a fellow AmeriKiwi, and she makes the most fabulous stuff.  This Otari View A in grey waffle knit is simple but shows off all the details perfectly.

And it goes great with her pink hair!

The Otari Hoodie by Scroop Patterns, sewn by Kat Makes @katklebenow

Hertzwek – Freiburg  

And saving the brightest one for last – yay for yellow!  And yay for a View B hood!

The Otari Hoodie by Scroop Patterns, sewn by Hertzwerk - Freiburg

Look at that pattern matching!  <3

The Otari Hoodie by Scroop Patterns, sewn by Hertzwerk - Freiburg

Thank you so much to all my testers for their help!

So those are the tester makes!  I’ve seen some progress images from people who bought the pattern – can’t wait to see finished makes from them too!  <3

Get your own Scroop Patterns Otari Hoodie here  

The Otari Hoodie by Scroop Patterns scrooppatterns.com