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Day dress of cut velvet and patterned silk, c. 1885 Sold by Augusta Auctions, Spring Sartorial Surprise - Visions of Vintage, May, 2022 Sturbridge, MA

Rate the Dress: 1880s cut velvet

I haven’t quite managed to get Rate the Dress back on a same-time-same-day-of-the-week schedule, but at least it’s happening weekly-ish, give or take a day or two.  Let’s find out how you like this weeks(ish) offering of an 1880s day dress that blends simplicity and extravagance.

Last week:  the Marchesa a la modé in puce and coral

Everyone appreciated the Marchesa’s portrait last week, and the way it clearly showed her personality and interests.  Most of you also appreciated her very fashionable outfit, but not everyone was entirely on-board.  Things that came in for criticism were the too-plain skirt, the contrasting colours, and the skirt clips.

A number of commenters noted that they hadn’t ever noticed skirt clips like that before, and I know of at least a handful of images with them off the top of my head, so I’ve added a post about 18th century bodice clips to my (very, very long) to-do list.

The Total: 8.5 out of 10

Things continue to approve!  I’m pleased that you enjoyed discussing the Marchesa’s very trendy outfit, even if it wasn’t to your personal taste.

This week: A very-fitted 1880s dress in cut velvet

As not everyone was a fan of the bold and clashing hues in last week’s Rate the Dress, and felt that there was too much expanse of plain fabric, this week I’ve opted for the opposite.  This 1880s day dress features bold patterning in very subdued tones.

Day dress of cut velvet and patterned silk, c. 1885 Sold by Augusta Auctions, Spring Sartorial Surprise - Visions of Vintage, May, 2022 Sturbridge, MA

Day dress of cut velvet and patterned silk, c. 1885 Sold by Augusta Auctions, Spring Sartorial Surprise – Visions of Vintage, May, 2022 Sturbridge, MA

The bold patterning is balanced both by the muted colours, and by a very severe, fitted silhouette, which bursts out into typical 1880s extravagance only at the hem, cuffs, and in the draping of the bustle.

Day dress of cut velvet and patterned silk, c. 1885 Sold by Augusta Auctions, Spring Sartorial Surprise - Visions of Vintage, May, 2022 Sturbridge, MA

Day dress of cut velvet and patterned silk, c. 1885 Sold by Augusta Auctions, Spring Sartorial Surprise – Visions of Vintage, May, 2022 Sturbridge, MA

The fabric may be subdued in colours, but it’s very detailed and dynamic up close:

Day dress of cut velvet and patterned silk, c. 1885 Sold by Augusta Auctions, Spring Sartorial Surprise - Visions of Vintage, May, 2022 Sturbridge, MA

Day dress of cut velvet and patterned silk, c. 1885 Sold by Augusta Auctions, Spring Sartorial Surprise – Visions of Vintage, May, 2022 Sturbridge, MA

Day dress of cut velvet and patterned silk, c. 1885 Sold by Augusta Auctions, Spring Sartorial Surprise - Visions of Vintage, May, 2022 Sturbridge, MA

Day dress of cut velvet and patterned silk, c. 1885 Sold by Augusta Auctions, Spring Sartorial Surprise – Visions of Vintage, May, 2022 Sturbridge, MA

The layout of the pattern means it could not be mirrored across the seams of the bodice, but the dressmaker has made an effort to balance the pattern and create as much symmetry as possible.

Day dress of cut velvet and patterned silk, c. 1885 Sold by Augusta Auctions, Spring Sartorial Surprise - Visions of Vintage, May, 2022 Sturbridge, MA

Day dress of cut velvet and patterned silk, c. 1885 Sold by Augusta Auctions, Spring Sartorial Surprise – Visions of Vintage, May, 2022 Sturbridge, MA

The bodice would probably have been worn with a small ruffle of white or cream lace at the neck.

What do you think?  Is this an attractive balance of 1880s extravagance and subtlety?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

A reminder about rating — feel free to be critical if you don’t like a thing, but make sure that your comments aren’t actually insulting to those who do like a garment.  Phrase criticism as your opinion, rather than a flat fact. Our different tastes are what make Rate the Dress so interesting.  It’s no fun when a comment implies that anyone who doesn’t agree with it, or who would wear a garment, is totally lacking in taste.

As usual, nothing more complicated than a .5.  I also hugely appreciate it if you only do one rating, and set it on a line at the very end of your comment.

How to hack the Cassandra Stays pattern to be front-lacing only

Tutorial: How to alter the Cassandra Stays pattern to be front-laced only

Previously on The Cassandra Stays Sew Along:

 

We designed View B of the Cassandra Stays to have front and back lacing for maximum flexibility.  However, it’s very easy to alter View B to be front-laced only.  It’s historically accurate too, based on examples like these stays:

Dutch corset from Antwerp, 1770-90

Dutch corset from Antwerp, 1770-90

And these stays:

I’ve used these two pairs of stays as the primary inspiration for the pair of stays I’m making for the Cassandra Stays Sew Along.

Here’s how I altered the Cassandra Pattern to be front-laced only!

Fitting for Front-Laced Only Stays:

It’s very important to get the fit just right in front-lacing only stays.  After all, you’ll only have one set of lacing to adjust to your body.

When fitting, aim for a back lacing gap that is 1.5cm/5/8” or under, and perfectly even up and down.  No gap at all is best.

You can see here that I either need to be able to comfortably tighten the lacing just a bit more in the middle, or let out my seams in the middle where it wants to bow out just a wee bit:

Fitting the Scroop Cassandra Stays thedreamstress.com

Make a careful note of exactly how wide your back lacing gap is.

Moving to the front of the stays, let’s look at the front lacing gap.  Think about how tightly laced you want it in front.  I want the option to lace my stays totally  closed at the front at their snuggest, or to wear them with a bit of a cap and the stomacher showing for a more casual look.

Fitting the Scroop Cassandra Stays thedreamstress.com

Keep in mind any changes your body might go through.  I fitted my stays after 2 months on meds that made me gain weight, right before switching to meds that have minor weight loss as a common side effect, so I’ve left just a little gap in case I drop a kilo or two.  I can also take in or let out the seams of the final stays when I get to the final fitting, and this should let me finesse them to wherever my body is at that point.

When you are completely happy with your stays fit and all your adjustments, it’s time to transfer the adjustments to the pattern.

Pattern Adjustments:

Fitting the Scroop Cassandra Stays thedreamstress.com

Transfer all your adjustments to your pattern, and when you come to Piece G (the centre back piece) draw a line parallel to the centre back line that is 1/2 of your lacing gap.  Fold under the centre back seam allowance of Piece G on that line.

In my case I fit for no back gap whatsoever, so I folded in my pattern piece right along the centre back line:

Cutting out the Cassandra Stays thedreamstress.com

You’ll now be cutting your center back piece with this line along a fold:

Cutting out the Cassandra Stays thedreamstress.com

Cutting out the Cassandra Stays thedreamstress.com

Cutting out the Cassandra Stays thedreamstress.com

And that’s literally all you have to do to alter the Cassandra Pattern to have no back lacing!

Now you’re ready to cut out.  And that will be the subject of the next post.  After Rate the Dress, of course…

Czechia, thedreamstress.com

Pretty Pastel Building of Czechia

In the interest of this blog not being all-Scroop-all-the-time, here’s one of my favourite random things about the Czech Republic: all the pretty pastel building!

Czechia, thedreamstress.com

Everywhere we went the buildings were painted to the most delicious colours.

From big apartment buildings in cities:

Czechia, thedreamstress.com

Czechia, thedreamstress.com

Czechia, thedreamstress.com

To whole town squares of delicious ice-cream hues.

Czechia, thedreamstress.com

I also really like the way each building just built its own roof and paid no attention to the one next door!

Czechia, thedreamstress.com

To modern apartment buildings:

Czechia, thedreamstress.com

Czechia, thedreamstress.com

And every single one of them delighted me!

Czechia, thedreamstress.com

Czechia, thedreamstress.com

Czechia, thedreamstress.com

(although I am disappointed that Banána isn’t a yellow building!)

These were taken in Valašské Meziříčí, Tišnov, Olomouc,  and a couple other places (including from a train!).

And finally, because someone once told me VERY firmly that travel pictures should never just be things-that-aren’t-you, here’s a photo of me in one of the narrowest alleys in the Czech Republic.  I saw a narrower one in Sweden, but I would have been too scared to go down it!

Czechia, thedreamstress.com