I haven’t quite managed to get Rate the Dress back on a same-time-same-day-of-the-week schedule, but at least it’s happening weekly-ish, give or take a day or two. Let’s find out how you like this weeks(ish) offering of an 1880s day dress that blends simplicity and extravagance.
Last week: the Marchesa a la modé in puce and coral
Everyone appreciated the Marchesa’s portrait last week, and the way it clearly showed her personality and interests. Most of you also appreciated her very fashionable outfit, but not everyone was entirely on-board. Things that came in for criticism were the too-plain skirt, the contrasting colours, and the skirt clips.
A number of commenters noted that they hadn’t ever noticed skirt clips like that before, and I know of at least a handful of images with them off the top of my head, so I’ve added a post about 18th century bodice clips to my (very, very long) to-do list.
The Total: 8.5 out of 10
Things continue to approve! I’m pleased that you enjoyed discussing the Marchesa’s very trendy outfit, even if it wasn’t to your personal taste.
This week: A very-fitted 1880s dress in cut velvet
As not everyone was a fan of the bold and clashing hues in last week’s Rate the Dress, and felt that there was too much expanse of plain fabric, this week I’ve opted for the opposite. This 1880s day dress features bold patterning in very subdued tones.

Day dress of cut velvet and patterned silk, c. 1885 Sold by Augusta Auctions, Spring Sartorial Surprise – Visions of Vintage, May, 2022 Sturbridge, MA
The bold patterning is balanced both by the muted colours, and by a very severe, fitted silhouette, which bursts out into typical 1880s extravagance only at the hem, cuffs, and in the draping of the bustle.

Day dress of cut velvet and patterned silk, c. 1885 Sold by Augusta Auctions, Spring Sartorial Surprise – Visions of Vintage, May, 2022 Sturbridge, MA
The fabric may be subdued in colours, but it’s very detailed and dynamic up close:

Day dress of cut velvet and patterned silk, c. 1885 Sold by Augusta Auctions, Spring Sartorial Surprise – Visions of Vintage, May, 2022 Sturbridge, MA

Day dress of cut velvet and patterned silk, c. 1885 Sold by Augusta Auctions, Spring Sartorial Surprise – Visions of Vintage, May, 2022 Sturbridge, MA
The layout of the pattern means it could not be mirrored across the seams of the bodice, but the dressmaker has made an effort to balance the pattern and create as much symmetry as possible.

Day dress of cut velvet and patterned silk, c. 1885 Sold by Augusta Auctions, Spring Sartorial Surprise – Visions of Vintage, May, 2022 Sturbridge, MA
The bodice would probably have been worn with a small ruffle of white or cream lace at the neck.
What do you think? Is this an attractive balance of 1880s extravagance and subtlety?
Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10
A reminder about rating — feel free to be critical if you don’t like a thing, but make sure that your comments aren’t actually insulting to those who do like a garment. Phrase criticism as your opinion, rather than a flat fact. Our different tastes are what make Rate the Dress so interesting. It’s no fun when a comment implies that anyone who doesn’t agree with it, or who would wear a garment, is totally lacking in taste.
As usual, nothing more complicated than a .5. I also hugely appreciate it if you only do one rating, and set it on a line at the very end of your comment.