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Rate the Dress: Emerald green in 1914

Last week I showed you an early 1870s dress in pink and white stripes, with butterfly patterned lace trim, and black bows.  While not everything about the dress tickled my fancy, I thought the half &  half black and pink bows were a brilliant touch, but many of you did NOT agree.  In the same way, opinions differed greatly on whether the front to back skirt wrap was brilliant, or tablecloth-y.  In fact, the ratings were all over the range for the dress, bringing it in at a 7.4 out of 10.

This evening dress in deep green silk didn’t come with more of a date range than 1910-15, but the  fullness at the lower hips and tapering hem, paired with the skirt drapery, place it firmly in 1914, give or take a year.  The mix of textures is typical of the 1910s, giving complexity to an otherwise simple design.

What do you think?  

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

Etiquette for costumers: how to behave when out and about

There has been a bit of a brou-ha-ha in costuming and re-enacting circles over the last week over how to behaving in public while dressed up, and how much  we should expect from the public to accommodate our particular  needs due to our lifestyle choice.

I don’t want to get involved in the specific drama that has triggered this, but I thought that a bit of a guideline of the things that I keep in mind, and the things that I warn models and friends dressing up with me to be aware of, when dressed in costumes of period attire, might be helpful.

These are rules of  etiquette I stick to when  I’m out and about in costume or historical dress, whether it’s just having fun wearing a costume for a day, being in a public space for a photoshoot (formal or informal), stopping at the supermarket on my way home for a talk, or living as much as possible in the past  for the Fortnight in 1916.

My goal is always to be as courteous as possible to the general public and the businesses and institutions that generously allow me to use their facilities, and to give people a positive impression of costumers.*

Courtesy of Tony McKay Photography and Glory Days Magazine

Courtesy of Tony McKay Photography and Glory Days Magazine

1. When you’re in public in a costume or historical dress, you’re an ambassador for all costumers and re-enactors.  

Most of the public don’t encounter a huge number of  costumers or people in historical dress.  So whatever impression you give will be the impression that they take away of costumers.  If you are kind, welcoming, and polite, they will assume we all are, and will treat us in like manner.  If you’re snobby, and demanding, and a know-it-all, the next five costumers who encounter this person will pay for your rudeness.

So when people say ‘Oh, you look just like Belle from Beauty and the Beast‘ when I wear Ninon, I smile and say ‘thank you!’ and take the compliment in the spirit it was intended, although I personally do not care for  Disney princesses.  Then, if they seem really interested, I may tell them my dress is actually  based on a 17th century portrait of the French kings cousin, wearing a style of dress that did indeed influence the design for Belle’s gown (via Robe de Cour).  But I do this with enthusiasm, and a smile, so they learn something, but don’t go away feeling that historical costumers are snobs, or that all I did was correct them.

I try to behave well in public at all times, but I try particularly hard in costume: I’m less anonymous, and I represent a group.  Unless it’s for a large public event where lots of people will be in costume, or I’m feeling particularly and unusually extroverted, I do find it a bit hard to be so noticeable, but I smile and respond to comments so that people don’t think costumers are mean and clique-ish.

2. If you assume that people will react positively to you  in a costume, 99.9% of the time they will.

If you go out assuming you will get a positive reaction, and treat people well, in my personal experience, people will react positively.  I have never encountered a negative reaction to going about in costume or period dress.**

I have met dozens of little girls who asked if I was a princess, delighted hundreds of tourists who asked if they could take my picture at scenic spots, been told I ‘looked just like my wife did when I courted her’ by an elderly man, complimented on how elegant I looked by staff in stores, and asked if I was dressed for an event, or  where someone could get a similar outfit.  Dozens upon dozens of people have said I looked like (insert current most famous period drama here).  Most often I’m given a slightly startled look, and then treated exactly as I would be in normal clothing.

The many people I know who costume report the same experiences: people either  like (or love) seeing something a bit different, or don’t  mind, as long as we don’t interfere with their life and rights.

3. Always check ahead to ensure that the event or place you are going to is OK with your outfit and event plans.

When I’m in outfit I’m usually planning to do something: have a picnic or high tea, give a talk, take photos, go to a movie or a museum exhibition, etc.  I’m familiar with most venues in my area, and what their rules are, but when going somewhere new, or somewhere that might be different than usual (a particularly popular film or museum exhibition, for example), I always check to make sure that what I plan to do is acceptable to the venue.

Some venues do not allow costumes.  I have found that with some venues that don’t allow costumes, if you call and manage to speak to someone a bit higher up, and explain your situation if it’s a bit unusual, and if you’re extremely polite and charming, you can be given an exemption (and sometimes venues say ‘oh, we’ve been thinking about changing that, why doesn’t your group come as a trial, and we’ll see how that goes’, in which case your group should try exceptionally hard to behave exceedingly well so that other groups can have the privilege).  Most of the time though, venues have chosen a ‘no costume’ policy for really good reasons, and  that’s that.

If you do happen to get caught at a venue or event in an outfit that is deemed a costume (after all, I wear a lot of ’20s & ’30s, stuff, complete with hat, as normal attire) and not OK, ask if there is anything you can do to tone down your outfit be allowed in.  Be polite, and work with the venue.  If you’re apologetic and courteous  and willing to  compromise, I’ve never encountered a venue that won’t try to make it work for both of you.  You may have to take off your hat and most of your accessories, or put someone’s cardi on to tone it down, but you’ll get to be where you want to be.

Checking ahead applies to talks and movies and shows and museum openings, unless the host/business has specifically indicated that costumes are OK.  People often ask me if it’s alright  to dress up for my talks, and while I’ve always been delighted to say ‘yes’, I really appreciate that they ask.

If you’re going to an event specifically to outshine the show.  Don’t.  That’s just another level of rude.

4. While we may be dressed for another timeperiod, in public we’re still in the 21st century, and need to behave according the rules and mores of this time.

You may be doing extremely serious re-enacting, following the social rules and mores of another timeperiod in every way for days on end, but once you leave your reenacting area, even if you’re still in costume, you’re in the 21st century and you need to act like it.  You can’t expect men to open doors for you as a lady (unless that’s still the standard where you are), or that you should be able to make decisions for women if you’re a man.  Continuing to act in period, and expecting the world to act along with you, and to be aware of the dictates of polite society that ended decades or centuries ago, is rude, selfish, and frankly, incredibly immature.

Remembering that we’re still in the 20th century  includes things like taking off hats if you have to go into a bank, and removing masks and any weapons (even peace bonded ones) for any business.

And finally…

5. Our needs in costume or historical dress are not more important than other people’s right to use a venue, and to go about their business in normal fashion.

Whether we’re cosplayers, re-enactors, or social historians doing living history experiments, we’ve chosen to wear the clothes we’re wearing.  And it’s a lifestyle choice, not a religion, so we don’t get the same rights and allowances as people who wear clothes dictated by their faith do in most Western countries.  We can’t expect society to rearrange itself to accommodate our needs in costume.

Remembering that we only get the same rights as everyone else  can include things as simple as not hogging a desirable photo location.  Most people will give you right of way, and more time at a pretty spot, if you are particularly dressed up, but you have to be very, very careful not to take advantage of this.  Tourists in pants-that-unzip-to-shorts have just as much right to get their picture taken as a group in historical dress.  Step aside, give people time, be quick, don’t take more time than anyone else if there are others waiting.  Costumers hogging spots is a good way to get costumes banned from a venue permanently (I’ve seen it happen).

If you’re going to the theatre, make sure your hairstyles aren’t going to get in anyone’s line of vision.  Make sure your skirts aren’t so big they take more than your chair space at a restaurant.

If you need to be sure you won’t burp while wearing a corset (yes, this is a problem!), call ahead to a dinner event and make sure that there will be non-carbonated options, and that supplying them isn’t too much of a hassle for the venue.

Just be aware that there are other people in the world, and they need to get their business done.  Don’t make your choice a problem for them.

A 1900s Anne of Green Gables skirt thedreamstress.com

* For the purpose of simplicity and brevity I’m going to use costumers as a general synonym for anyone in non-standard, non-period to the 2010s attire.  I know  that not everyone feels it is the most technically accurate term for people in period dress, but in this case I’m sure you will all understand the intent of my usage.

** For the purpose of honest, I suppose I should acknowledge that I was once yelled at by men driving past while taking photos near a road, but since I have been yelled at by men dozens of times while in modern clothes, I think we can safely (or un-safely, as it were) say this is about men who feel they have a right to yell at women, not about whether I was in a costume of not.

1913-1916 Sunshine & Roses corset thedreamstress.com

A 1913-1916 Sunshine & Roses corset

Thanks to the total and abject failure of my 1910s non-travelling corset, and the super-comfortable but slightly too big-ness of my 1916 black and white corset, I decided I  needed to make a new 1910s corset to go under my 1914-15 spiderweb evening gown  for Costume College.

1913-1916 Sunshine & Roses corset thedreamstress.com

This may not have been my brightest idea ever, as I was already pushing it to get the evening gown itself finished in time, but 1910s corsets are pretty easy, so…

I used the same 1916 corset pattern from Salen’s corset book as I’d used for the black and white corset, only this time I adapted the pattern pieces slightly for an earlier ‘teens silhouette: reducing the waist to hip ratio, and cutting the front into a lower dip.

I kept the higher scoop of the lower back  edge of the corset as it is, although it’s an unusual feature on corsets before 1914, because it’s so comfortable, especially for sitting.

Because the black and white corset was as big as it could be while still fitting me properly, I also reduced the size for this version, which is where things went a little badly.  I know from experience that when I’m stressed and in a hurry I tend to get my maths crossed, so I carefully measured and calculated for a corset that was 2.5″ smaller in the waist than my black and white version.

And then I applied those calculations to each half  of the corset, rather than the full thing.  AND forgot that I wasn’t meant to take the reduction measure off the front and back seams as well.    GAH!

I realised this with enough time to let out one seam, but the corset  is still 5″ smaller than my black and white corset, which means the corset is quite snug, and leaves a bit more of a lacing gap in back than I prefer.

1913-1916 Sunshine & Roses corset thedreamstress.com

Choosing fabric for the corset was quite easy – I already had a delicious cotton/viscose blend corset brocade that the wonderful  Comtesse (she of the historical dinner party) gifted to me when she left NZ (sniff).

I spent a couple of hours attempting pattern matching on the corset before giving it up as a bad and nearly impossible idea, and just cutting the fabric as frugally as possible.

1913-1916 Sunshine & Roses corset thedreamstress.com

After a quick test, I wasn’t happy with how supportive the brocade was on its own, so I went rummaging in my stash for lining, which turned out to be surprisingly hard – I have lots of accurate cotton sateens and twills, but all in bright whites or warm creams, which looked awful with the silvery white of the brocade.

I finally remembered a yellow and white ticking that I picked up at Fabric-a-Brac for only $2 (yay!) because it had marks.  A good launder, and my fabric was not only pre-washed, but mark free – happiness!

1913-1916 Sunshine & Roses corset thedreamstress.com

The addition of the ticking makes the corset a little heavier than I’d intended, and if I hadn’t been trying to get this done in record time I’d probably have held out for a lighter secondary fabric, but I’m still happy with the result.  And it’s yellow!

1913-1916 Sunshine & Roses corset thedreamstress.comI’d originally intended to call this corset the ‘Rose Daughter’ corset, but with the addition of the yellow it became ‘Sunshine & Roses’*.

As I had two layers of fabric, I set the boning channels between the layers, rather than sewing on extra boning channels, which is nice and fabric and time efficient, but not particularly accurate for the 1910s.

1913-1916 Sunshine & Roses corset thedreamstress.com

I ran into a further problem when making the corset when I realised I had no 10″ or 11″ busks, but a frantic call to Madame Ornata rescued me, and she ‘lent’ me a busk until I could pick up a replacement one for her at Costume College.

Since I’d already ruined any pretence of HA, and since I couldn’t find my twill binding, or a lace that would look good on along the top of the corset, I just bound the corset in bias, and did really simple garter hooks.  I also passed on a waist stay, although I’ve never found an example of a 1910s corset without one, because I hate waist stays in 1910s corsets.

I may eventually decide to undo the binding, possibly even let out the corset another 1″, re-bind with a twill, and do proper garter hooks.

But, for now, it’s done, and has been worn, and works.

It has also received the official cat seal of approval, so that’s good:

1913-1916 Sunshine & Roses corset thedreamstress.com

It’s a little soft, but I’m still counting for the Historical Sew Fortnightly ‘Patterns’ challenge.  I feel better about including softer items if I’ve already made one proper challenge item.

What the item is:  a 1913-16 corset

The Challenge:  #8  Pattern

Fabric/Materials:  1m of cotton/viscose brocade  (a gift), 1m of yellow striped cotton ticking ($1).

Pattern:  My own, adapted from the 1916 corset pattern in Jill Salen’s Corsets: Historical Patterns and Techniques.

Year:  1913-1916

Notions:  cotton thread, a busk ($30), grommets ($5), german plastic boning ($15).

How historically accurate is it?    I’m not familiar with any examples of 1910s corsets with the boning channels placed between layers, rather than sewn on as separate channels, nor are there period examples of corsets bound with bias binding, but the shape and silhouette it gives are spot on, so once it’s under an outfit, you can’t tell.  So 60%ish.

Hours to complete:  Around 8

First worn:  For the Costume College Gala Ball, Sat 30 July

1913-1916 Sunshine & Roses corset thedreamstress.com

* If you hadn’t guessed from my evening gown, I had Robin McKinley very much on my mind while finishing up my Costume College sewing.