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1913-1916 Sunshine & Roses corset thedreamstress.com

A 1913-1916 Sunshine & Roses corset

Thanks to the total and abject failure of my 1910s non-travelling corset, and the super-comfortable but slightly too big-ness of my 1916 black and white corset, I decided I  needed to make a new 1910s corset to go under my 1914-15 spiderweb evening gown  for Costume College.

1913-1916 Sunshine & Roses corset thedreamstress.com

This may not have been my brightest idea ever, as I was already pushing it to get the evening gown itself finished in time, but 1910s corsets are pretty easy, so…

I used the same 1916 corset pattern from Salen’s corset book as I’d used for the black and white corset, only this time I adapted the pattern pieces slightly for an earlier ‘teens silhouette: reducing the waist to hip ratio, and cutting the front into a lower dip.

I kept the higher scoop of the lower back  edge of the corset as it is, although it’s an unusual feature on corsets before 1914, because it’s so comfortable, especially for sitting.

Because the black and white corset was as big as it could be while still fitting me properly, I also reduced the size for this version, which is where things went a little badly.  I know from experience that when I’m stressed and in a hurry I tend to get my maths crossed, so I carefully measured and calculated for a corset that was 2.5″ smaller in the waist than my black and white version.

And then I applied those calculations to each half  of the corset, rather than the full thing.  AND forgot that I wasn’t meant to take the reduction measure off the front and back seams as well.    GAH!

I realised this with enough time to let out one seam, but the corset  is still 5″ smaller than my black and white corset, which means the corset is quite snug, and leaves a bit more of a lacing gap in back than I prefer.

1913-1916 Sunshine & Roses corset thedreamstress.com

Choosing fabric for the corset was quite easy – I already had a delicious cotton/viscose blend corset brocade that the wonderful  Comtesse (she of the historical dinner party) gifted to me when she left NZ (sniff).

I spent a couple of hours attempting pattern matching on the corset before giving it up as a bad and nearly impossible idea, and just cutting the fabric as frugally as possible.

1913-1916 Sunshine & Roses corset thedreamstress.com

After a quick test, I wasn’t happy with how supportive the brocade was on its own, so I went rummaging in my stash for lining, which turned out to be surprisingly hard – I have lots of accurate cotton sateens and twills, but all in bright whites or warm creams, which looked awful with the silvery white of the brocade.

I finally remembered a yellow and white ticking that I picked up at Fabric-a-Brac for only $2 (yay!) because it had marks.  A good launder, and my fabric was not only pre-washed, but mark free – happiness!

1913-1916 Sunshine & Roses corset thedreamstress.com

The addition of the ticking makes the corset a little heavier than I’d intended, and if I hadn’t been trying to get this done in record time I’d probably have held out for a lighter secondary fabric, but I’m still happy with the result.  And it’s yellow!

1913-1916 Sunshine & Roses corset thedreamstress.comI’d originally intended to call this corset the ‘Rose Daughter’ corset, but with the addition of the yellow it became ‘Sunshine & Roses’*.

As I had two layers of fabric, I set the boning channels between the layers, rather than sewing on extra boning channels, which is nice and fabric and time efficient, but not particularly accurate for the 1910s.

1913-1916 Sunshine & Roses corset thedreamstress.com

I ran into a further problem when making the corset when I realised I had no 10″ or 11″ busks, but a frantic call to Madame Ornata rescued me, and she ‘lent’ me a busk until I could pick up a replacement one for her at Costume College.

Since I’d already ruined any pretence of HA, and since I couldn’t find my twill binding, or a lace that would look good on along the top of the corset, I just bound the corset in bias, and did really simple garter hooks.  I also passed on a waist stay, although I’ve never found an example of a 1910s corset without one, because I hate waist stays in 1910s corsets.

I may eventually decide to undo the binding, possibly even let out the corset another 1″, re-bind with a twill, and do proper garter hooks.

But, for now, it’s done, and has been worn, and works.

It has also received the official cat seal of approval, so that’s good:

1913-1916 Sunshine & Roses corset thedreamstress.com

It’s a little soft, but I’m still counting for the Historical Sew Fortnightly ‘Patterns’ challenge.  I feel better about including softer items if I’ve already made one proper challenge item.

What the item is:  a 1913-16 corset

The Challenge:  #8  Pattern

Fabric/Materials:  1m of cotton/viscose brocade  (a gift), 1m of yellow striped cotton ticking ($1).

Pattern:  My own, adapted from the 1916 corset pattern in Jill Salen’s Corsets: Historical Patterns and Techniques.

Year:  1913-1916

Notions:  cotton thread, a busk ($30), grommets ($5), german plastic boning ($15).

How historically accurate is it?    I’m not familiar with any examples of 1910s corsets with the boning channels placed between layers, rather than sewn on as separate channels, nor are there period examples of corsets bound with bias binding, but the shape and silhouette it gives are spot on, so once it’s under an outfit, you can’t tell.  So 60%ish.

Hours to complete:  Around 8

First worn:  For the Costume College Gala Ball, Sat 30 July

1913-1916 Sunshine & Roses corset thedreamstress.com

* If you hadn’t guessed from my evening gown, I had Robin McKinley very much on my mind while finishing up my Costume College sewing.

Costume College, or How I learned to stop worrying and have a fabulous time: advice and reflections for first timers.

This July/August I got to go to Costume College in LA for the first time.  It was amazing, and  I had a fabulous time in every possible way.

Now that I’ve been, I desperately want to go back, and can’t believe I didn’t manage to get there sooner!

I also can’t believe how stressed I was about the thought of Costume College.  I’m a worrier, I fretted and built up huge obstacles in my mind, which prevented me from really attempting to go for years, and which also made the run-up to it much more emotionally fraught that it needed to be.

I think a lot of the things I worried about with Costume College are pretty common among first timers, so I thought I’d address my biggest fears, and how they turned out to be not at all a problem, which will hopefully reassure some future attendees!

Worry #1: I’m not good enough, and my work isn’t good enough.

Like many people in the arts, I’m hyper-critical of my own work. I know every tiny fault in everything I make, and to me they are glaringly obvious (except creases — there are lots of times when I don’t care at all that a garment is creased, or feel it actually adds to the authenticity). Showing items off in a setting with so many amazing, talented people creating costumes at a level way above mine is super scary.

However, even when wearing things that are 5 years old, and that don’t reflect my current skills, I never once felt inadequate, or lacking in accomplishments.

No matter how spectacular and fabulous a garment was, I found seeing it in person both incredibly inspiring, and incredibly reassuring. I’m used to seeing costumes in photos, and when costumers post photos they post their favourite ones, where they, and the costume, appears to the very best advantage. Not only do nice angles obscure awkwardness that is pretty obvious in real life, but good lighting and lovely locales enhance even the most exquisite of garments. Everything looks better with a pretty backdrop!

Even when I’m studying photos for the technical and construction details I find myself getting swept away in the romance of the image: the atmospheric light, and the fabulous setting. In the reality of a hotel hallway, a costume may still be a triumph of technical skill and aesthetic artistry, but it is still clearly a garment made by a person. No matter how perfectly an outfit was constructed, being able to see it in person, and to see how it moved and was made, made it accessible. Even when a garment was even MORE amazing in person than in photos, seeing it in real life turned it from something that you looked at as a still image and felt you could never possibly do, to something where you saw how it had been done, and could aspire to.

I look at all my photos from Costume College, and instead of thinking “I’ll never be that good” I think “Yeah! I saw that thing and it was AMAZING but now I’m that much closer to being that amazing myself.”

This was really one of the biggest things I’ve taken from CoCo. Everything was SO fabulous, but I don’t feel diminished by it, I feel inspired. I’m pretty sure you’re going to see a massive leap in the level of things I create over the next 12 months, thanks to the things I saw at CoCo.

How to have an awesome time at Costume College, thedreamstress.com2

Worry #2: Everyone will judge my work

As hard as I am on myself about my work, it still really hurts when others critique it. There is a huge difference between knowing and pointing out your own faults, to having someone else point them out. So I was scared about wearing things like Ninon that I love, but know could be so much better if I made it now (more experience + so much new research has been published).

Of all the hundreds of conversations about the outfits at CoCo that I participated in or overheard, not one was a critique about construction or historical accuracy, and only one of them was a comparison (“my X being better than similar Y” – and it was pretty clear that the listeners on that one were a bit shocked and felt that a judged comparison was quite unnecessary, and did the speaker no favours). Bar that one comment, everything was a rave review. The weekend was a sea of “Oh my goodness, did you see that dress! It’s amazing! And that one, and that one, and that one…” and “You look FABULOUS, do you mind if I take a picture?”*

How to have an awesome time at Costume College, thedreamstress.com

Photographing two awesome costumes, as one is photographed by the other

People were clearly not there to judge, and they weren’t there to compete, they were there to learn, admire, and enjoy. The only competition at Costume College is with yourself: how much better can you be than you were before?

Worry #3: I don’t know anyone.

There were only three people at CoCo that I had ever met in person before my trip, and with all three it was very briefly, at one event almost a decade ago. However, I did KNOW lots of people who were there. I’ve read their blog, and they have read mine, and I’m in costuming groups with them on Facebook.

The internet has made it really easy to know people, and to be part of the community even before you arrive. If you take an effort to participate in groups, and blogs, you’ll already have friends when you get there. You don’t even have to have a blog or make things: trust me as a blogger and group facilitator when I tell you we LOVE frequent supportive commenters, and are very excited about meeting them!

How to have an awesome time at Costume College, thedreamstress.com

Hanging out with fellow Historical Sew Fortnightlier Maria

You can also make instant friends by using patterns from the small independent costuming patternmakers, and tutorials from the bloggers, as most of them were at CoCo. I was incredibly delighted whenever someone recognised me from my blog, and even MORE delighted when someone was wearing pocket hoops or stockings or something else from one of my tutorials. I made so many amazing friends because someone came up to me and showed me their legs!

I highly recommend trying to be part of the community online before CoCo, but even without that I don’t think it would be hard to make friends as long as you are willing to try too. The costumes make it really easy for people to come up and talk to you and vice versa.

Worry #4: People will be cliquish and unfriendly.

I’d heard numerous rumours of cliques and drama at Costume College before I went. I did not experience ANYTHING remotely drama-filled or cliquish at CoCo. Everyone was extremely friendly and welcoming. People were a bit shy  at the Thursday night mixer pool party, but by Friday morning everyone was just bouncing up to anyone in costume and telling them how great it was.

Friend-making and getting togethers were happening all the time: I made friends with  people I sat next to in classes and shared excited asides of ‘ooh, I’ve been doing it right’ as the teachers explained things, had breakfast with Cynthia of Redthreaded because we were the only CoCoers in the restaurant (also, because she’s awesome!), got taken out to a dinner for anyone at loose ends the last night, and was invited to sit at three different pre-booked reserved tables on Gala night, because I was walking around trying to find the table I was supposed to be at.

Those examples aren’t because I’m particularly fabulous or people were that excited about meeting me — they are just what happens at Costume College if you’re a little bit friendly and bounce up to lots of people and tell them how wonderful their outfit is, and how much you’ve learned from their blog.

How to have an awesome time at Costume College, thedreamstress.com

Yes, there are a lot of clusters of small groups admiring and talking, and group costume projects that all ‘go’ together, which can look superficially clique-y, but I really don’t think they are because…

The thing to remember about Costume College is that:

  • This is the only time of year that many costumers from across the country and around the world get to see each other, so of course everyone wants to spend time  with friends they haven’t seen in a year. That doesn’t mean they aren’t excited about meeting new ones too, simply that they want to catch up with everyone they already know, and already knowing them can be a bit easier for lots of people because…
  • MANY historical costumers are introverts. I think this is particularly true of costuming bloggers (i.e. the ones who you will recognise and know about beforehand). Blogs allow us to be social and outgoing in very calm, controlled environments. CoCo is wonderful, but a little scary in person, because of all the persons. There were so many costumers who seem outgoing on their blog, and at CoCo I’d find them escaping to back corners, trying to get away from the crowd. This is great because it meant it was really easy to have proper conversations with people in small groups, but I did notice people getting a little shy and quiet when a group got too big, no matter how well they knew every individual member of the group. Be understanding of the introverts. We aren’t quiet because we don’t like you, or don’t want to know you, we’re quiet because there is already too much noise for us.  We hang out in small groups because big groups are too hard, but that doesn’t mean we aren’t still excited about meeting lots of new people, just not all at once.Before Costume College someone posted a meme about fabric and hoopskirts etc.  and ‘these are my people’.  That’s true.  But when I realised  how much of the rest of Costume College was escaping back to their rooms for a few hours a day to decompress I though ‘Aha, these are my people!’
  • From chatting to people in themed costume  groups, and from watching them develop in blogs and Facebook for years, the themed groups aren’t about ‘Let’s do something so that we’re an exclusive group’, they are ‘I love X thing and think it would be fantastic if lots of people did X thing!’  Most of these groups are publicly mentioned/advertised beforehand on FB and in blogs (I know of four being planned for next Costume College, and all are delighted to let you join if you want), and everyone in them is happy to have anyone else in them.  And if you happen to be there  an outfit that fits the theme, without planning, the groups will include you with even more enthusiasm – the Star Wars group was very sad to find out I hadn’t brought my 1950s Jedi Knight/La Pieta with Stormtrooper outfit!

Worry #5: It will be hot and horrible

One of the biggest things that held me back from going to Costume College for years is the fact that it’s held in LA in August. I’m not very good at heat. And I’m even worse at dry heat. And I have perfume and chemical allergies. So a conference in LA, in August, in a hotel, with lots of people, when you’re expected to wear costumes, was scary.

LA was VERY hot this year, but the hotel has very good air conditioning. It not only made super elaborate costumes comfortable, but also did a good job of filtering a lot of the pollutants I’d usually have problems with. I actually didn’t even go outside for two full days, and was fine. Don’t worry about the heat!

How to have an awesome time at Costume College, thedreamstress.com

Perfume was still a problem (if I didn’t come up to you on Gala night and tell you your outfit was amazing, it was either because there were so many amazing outfits I didn’t manage to see them all, or because you were wearing perfume), and I had to leave one class because someone wearing lots sat near me, but if you’re a normal person who hasn’t ended up in the ER because someone drenched in scent sat next to you on a bus, you’ll be fine.

So that’s it – my biggest worries not at all an issue.  If you’ve thought about Costume College, but have held back because some of these worried you, I really encourage you not to.  Everyone is lovely.  The event is fabulous.  You’ll have a wonderful time, and you’ll learn so much.

Now that all my worries about Costume College have been laid to rest, I have a new worry:

#6:  How on earth am I going to be able to afford to do this every year, because it’s SO FANTASTIC!  

How to have an awesome time at Costume College, thedreamstress.com

* I actually found it hilarious how often someone said to me “Oh, I hope you don’t mind, but I’ve been sneaking pictures of you from across the room.”  It’s super sweet that people were so polite and asked, but I also felt that by dressing up at Costume College I had entered into  an  agreement that it was fine to photograph me!

Rate the Dress: 1871 butterflies & bows

For last week’s Rate the Dress I showed you menswear, and like most menswear Rate the Dresses, it wasn’t that popular in terms of votes and comments – it’s not that those that commented didn’t like it, just that very few of you commented.  I think we don’t really know what to do with menswear.  We’re so used to it being boring that super exciting and embellished historical examples are a bit weird and scary, and more restrained historical examples are, well, boring.

The 1840s summer whites of last week straddled the line between weird and boring, but did it fairly well, so, despite slightly odd proportions, and an overall pyjama-y look, they managed a quite respectable 8 out of 10.

I knew exactly what kind of dress I wanted to show you this week, but every example I found was in white or ecru, and I thought that, as a contrast to last week, I should probably find something that was a colour.

In the end, I’ve succeeded in finding an option that 1) isn’t quite what I was looking for, 2) is still mostly white, and 3) has small, not fantastic quality photos.  But, it is a fantastically interesting garment, so hopefully that will make up for the first three!

This early bustle dress byMmes Kerteux Soeurs (a Parisian fashion house that lasted from the late 1860s until the 1910s, and supplied dresses to the same client base as Doucet, Pingat, and even Worth) from the Museum of London features pink and white striped silk, with a front ‘apron’ of the same silk embellished with wide pink silk ribbons with lace butterfly motifs.  The same ribbon and lace trim fans out over the bodice, and an elaborate pink and black silk bow or rosette ornaments the waistband.

At the back of the dress, the skirt front closes over the fullness of the  back skirt, fastening with bows of pink and black.  The ornamentation of the bodice front has also carried from front to back over the shoulders, turning into a wide bertha effect.

The use of the wide striped front piece, with stripes that turn at the corners of the panel is almost reminiscent of late 17th and early 18th century mantua (such as this example, or this example), with both the layout of the stripes, and the layering of overskirt and underskirt inverted.  Here, the stripes form corners at the top of the skirt, rather than the bottom, and the front of the skirt drapes over the back, rather than sitting under it.

Whether the historicism is intentional or not, this dress is certainly an interesting example of the transitional styles of ca. 1870, with  the wide elliptical hoopskirts of the 1860s moving into the back emphasis of the first bustle era.

What do you think?  Is it fresh and interesting, and would the wearer have looked quite fetching at her ball, or is it just fussy?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10