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My Historical Sew Monthly: looking back at 2015, and forward to 2016

Whew!  Another Historical Sew Monthly down, another pile of garments made.  Overall, I’m pleased with my year, but not thrilled.  I am thrilled with the Medieval dress, and I made a lot of other nice small things, but the Medieval dress is the only truly spectacular outfit I made, and I need a little bit more spectacular in my life.

Still, looking at the list of accomplishments, I’m pretty happy:

January —  Foundations:  make something that is the foundation of a period outfit.

For this challenge I fixed my first Regency dress, which had been sewn incorrectly for almost five years, as getting a thing right, even if you have to re-do it, is the foundation to good sewing.

ca. 1800 Recamier gown thedreamstress.comAnd I made Wearing History’s 1917 step-in camisole pattern, which I LOVE and need to make more of!

Wearing History's 1917 combinations thedreamstress.com

February —  Colour Challenge Blue:  Make an item that features blue, in any shade from azure to zaffre.

I made seamed stockings, but more importantly, I put out  a full pattern and tutorial for them, so you can make your own!  As mother says, good  socks are the most important garment in any outfit. 😉

The Dreamstress 'Rosalie' stocking pattern thedreamstress.comAnd, since it was Feb, and Feb is all about Art Deco Weekend, I made 1930s culotte trousers  of blue linen, and they are the best thing ever!

Beach pyjama trousers thedreamstress.comBut wait, there’s more!  I didn’t officially count it, but my 1930s handkerchief halter (complete with tutorial, because I was  all about tutorials in Feb!) was also blue, and also totally period accurate.

Make a 30s Handkerchief Halter7

March —  Stashbusting:  Make something using only fabric, patterns, trims & notions that you already have in stash.

Ergh.  This was too easy.  I have way too much stash :-/  I tried to use  something that used some of the oldest pieces in my stash, so I made a 1930s sporty suit out of a white pique that was one of the first pieces of fabric I purchased in New Zealand.1930sArtDecoSportySuitTheDreamstress3And, since I was doing Art Deco Weekend sewing, a 1930s wrap halter out of fabric I’d bought for Art Deco Weekend three years earlier.

The 'Dazzle' 1930s halter thedreamstress.com4

April  —  War & Peace:  the extremes of conflict and long periods of peacetime both influence what people wear.  Make something that shows the effects of war, or of extended peace.

I was so excited about this challenge!  And so excited about the first item I made, which was WWI era ‘Dazzle’ swim stockings:

Dazzle Swimsuit thedreamstress.com05And the second item, which was a 1940s rayon frock, in the spirit of WWII making do:

Fine Feathered Friends Decades of Style Dorothy Lara dress thedreamstress.com - 4And the third item, which was a WWI era skirt from Wearing History’s pattern, showing the way WWI fashions reacted to fabric and dye shortages:

Wearing History's 1916 skirt thedreamstress.com - 2

May —  Practicality:  Fancy party frocks are all very well, but everyone,  even  princesses, sometimes needs a practical garment that you can DO things in.  Create the jeans-and-T-Shirt-get-the-house-clean-and-garden-sorted outfit of your chosen period.

May was easy: I made a ‘wash’ blouse to go with my WWI skirt, showing how fashions became more practical in response to the changes in women’s roles in the war.  And I did housecleaning whilst wearing it!  Can’t get more practical than that!

Doing housework in 1910s clothes thedreamstress.com - 2

June —  Out of Your Comfort Zone:  Create  a garment  from a time period you haven’t done before, or  that uses a new skill or technique that you’ve never tried before.

I wanted to do something really impressive for this challenge, but life caught up with me, and I just ended up making Medieval cloth buttons, which was totally new to me, and scared me, so OoYCZ mission accomplished.

Making medieval buttons15

July —  Accessorize:  The final touch of the right accessory creates the perfect period  look.  Bring an outfit together by creating an accessory to go with your historical wardrobe.

My first entry for this  challenge really did turn out to be about adding the final touch to an outfit: in this case, my Ninon gown.  I made a necklace and earrings to go with it, and a plausible-ish 17th c masquerade mask.

17th century pearl accessories thedreamstress.com2My second (more than a little  late) entry was about accessorising a new outfit: my medieval gown.  I made a veil, circlet and belt to go with it.

A medieval circlet thedreamstress.comA medieval linen veil thedreamstress.com

August —  Heirlooms & Heritage:  Re-create a garment one of your ancestors wore or would have worn, or use an heirloom sewing supply  to create a new heirloom to pass down to the next generations.

I finally finished my 14th century gown for this challenge!  And I am SO pleased with myself!  Definitely the highlight of my sewing year!

1350s-80s medieval gown from Elizabeth1

September —  Colour Challenge Brown:  it’s not the most exciting colour by modern standards, but brown has been one of the most common, and popular, colours throughout history. Make something brown.

This challenge was a little bit of a struggle, since my planned item turned out to be much more of a trial  than anticipated.  To get something done in the month, I made do with a few simple items: a lucet cord, and a medieval belt:

Felicity the cat thedreamstress.com3A medieval belt thedreamstress.comAlthough it was slightly late (and the blog post was really, really late), I also managed to make a 1900s walking skirt in brown & grey checked wool:

A 1900s Anne of Green Gables skirt thedreamstress.com

October —  Sewing Secrets:  Hide something in your sewing, whether it is an almost invisible mend, a secret pocket, a false fastening or front, or a concealed message (such as a political or moral allegiance).

While this isn’t as impressive as my medieval dress, and while I’m not as pleased with myself for it, I love the Edwardian  lace blouse (from a tablecloth!) I made for sewing secrets.  It may be my 2nd favourite item of the year.  And it only took one evening!

A lace 1900s blouse thedreamstress.comPlus, I made a rather nice Edwardian walking skirt with a hidden placket for the challenge:

Sun 18th October, for a photoshoot at the Katherine Mansfield Birthplace

November —  Silver Screen: Be inspired by period  fashions as shown onscreen (film or TV), and recreate your favourite historical costume as a historically accurate period piece.

I made an Edwardian blouse inspired by a blouse that Marilla wears in the Anne of Green Gables TV show and I love it and can’t decide if I like it or the Edwardian lace blouse better!

An Anne of Green Gables inspired Marilla Blouse thedreamstress.com

December —  Re-Do:  It’s the last challenge of the year, so let’s keep things simple by re-doing any of the previous 11 challenges.

Me?  Keep things simple?  Psht!

My goal with the Re-do Challenge (as it has been  every year) is to re-do EVERY challenge (though I let each item I make count for as many challenges as possible).

I made an Elizabethan ruff that re-did Challenge  #3 Stashbusting, #4 War & Peace,  #6 Out of Your Comfort Zone, #7 Accessorise, #8 Heirlooms & Heritage, & #11 Silver Screen:

Elizabethan ruff thedreamstress.com

I haven’t blogged about them yet, but I’ve also made a petticoat that covers #1 Foundations, #2 Blue, #3 Stashbusting, #5 Practicality, #8 Heirlooms & Heritage, #10 Sewing Secrets; and a dress that covers #2 blue, #4 War & Peace, & #9 Brown.  Watch out!

Whew!  So, if you have survived all that, you may be wondering what my plans for 2016 are.

I’m wondering that myself, but I have some ideas.  Mostly it’s based on the fact that I’m going to Costume College (eeeeeeeeeeee!) this year and obviously I want to look amazing.  I can’t decide if I want to do all 1910s stuff (I love the 1910s, I haven’t done as much as I want, it suits me, and it’s not super heavy, which is a major incentive flying from NZ) or if I want to do a random assortment of pieces based on the more impressive UFOs I have sitting around (the Frou Frou Francaise and the re-jig of the 1720s robe de cour) and the most spectacular fabrics I have sitting in stash.  I may also have the excuse to make a ridiculously fabulous 1900s garden party frock.

So the first part of my year is going to be focused on CoCo sewing and sewing for some 1910s talks.  The second part of my year is going to be focused on clearing PHds  off my plate.  This may mean that some PHds  (like the Elizabethan dress) sit for another 8 months, but practically, it has to happen.

HSM16 #1: The chine a la b’retch petticoat

Have you ever been obsessed with a period garment made from very unusual fabric, and, of course, you’re heartbroken, because you think you’ll never have the chance to recreate it, because where would you get that fabric?

That was me with 18th century chine a la branche.

I’ve loved ikat in all its forms since I was given a hand-woven ikat skirt when I first started sewing, but chine is definitely my favourite. But so hard to find!

And then, three years ago, ikat became fashionable, and Wellington’s The Fabric Store started having the occasional bolt of silk or silk blend chine.  Oh, the temptation!  But none of it was quite right : wrong blend, very  modern pattern, colours that are only achievable with modern dyes, etc.

And then, they had a short bolt of this:

An 18th century chine a la branche petticoat thedreamstress.com02

Oooh!

So I snapped up everything they had, which was only 2.3m.  I really wanted to make a française, but at least I had a bit, so could do a pet en l’aire if nothing else.

The idea of a pet didn’t quite make my heart go pitter-patter, so the fabric sat in my stash for almost three years, waiting.  Then, with the Brown challenge coming up last year, I decided it was then or never.  But I’d make one last trip to The Fabric Store, just in case…

AND THEY HAD ANOTHER BOLT THAT HAD JUST ARRIVED!!!!

(full caps to accurately express how excited I was!).

AND it was their 40% off sale!

So I bought another 7m (I think!  I hope!), and started working.

This is when the story stops being awesome and goes terribly wrong.

Look at the fabric again:

An 18th century chine a la branche petticoat thedreamstress.com04

Just stare at that photo for a good few seconds.  Do you notice what’s happening?

I quickly noticed what was happening.  As did everyone I managed to show the fabric to in person.

I held it up to Stella & Priscilla the first day I tried sewing with it, and said “What’s wrong with this fabric?”

Priscilla looked at it for 30 seconds and then said “Is it the part where it makes you feel like you’re going to fall down and throw up at the same time?”

Yep.  That’s it.

Here is a photo of Felicity to give you something lovely to focus on while your eyes recover:

An 18th century chine a la branche petticoat thedreamstress.com01

Imagine trying to pattern match fabric that you can’t look at because doing so makes you nauseous and dizzy!

Basically, I gave up.  Pattern matching isn’t that important in 18th c garments anyway, especially since the petticoat will (hopefully) be covered by the overskirt.

An 18th century chine a la branche petticoat thedreamstress.com08

Because the fabric was so heinous to work with, I didn’t get it done in time for the Brown challenge.

Not to worry!  I had a backup plan! The petticoat has a secret: it’s backed in linen, and the backing has both weird patching, and dye problems:

An 18th century chine a la branche petticoat thedreamstress.com05

The fading/dye problems are only on one side of the linen, so I hid them between the linen and the silk.

The patching is just a funny little strip on one side, because the length of linen was just a few cm short.

An 18th century chine a la branche petticoat thedreamstress.com11

Patched and irregularities frequently show up on 18th c linings, so mine are very much in the spirit.

Despite this, I didn’t get the petticoat done for Sewing Secrets, because it was just too hard to work with.  I was determined to get it finished this year, so New Years eve I had a sewing party, we sat around and sewed and chatted and watched Firefly, and I sewed the side slits, pleated the top of the petticoat, and hand-stitched it to a band.

An 18th century chine a la branche petticoat thedreamstress.com07

It’s not my most perfect effort by far, but, importantly, it is DONE.  I finished the last stitch at 4 minutes past midnight.  A good start to the year!

An 18th century chine a la branche petticoat thedreamstress.com09

The petticoat is currently sitting on my dressform, skirts all tucked up out of the way of Miss Fiss and her claws, while I consider whether I am brave enough to make a full française out of the fabric.  We’ll see!

An 18th century chine a la branche petticoat thedreamstress.com

First I must finish the Frou Frou Française I started two years ago though…

The Challenge: Procrastination

Materials: 2.5ish meters of chine a la branch (warp printed) silk satin ($25 or so per meter), 2.5m of linen backing ($5 at an op shop)

Pattern: None.

Year: ca. 1765

Notions:   Cotton tape, cotton and silk threads

How historically accurate is it? The hand and hang of the silk isn’t quite right for the mid 18th century, and all the examples I can find of chine a la branch are on flat silk (taffeta). Plus I machine sewed the seaming. But the fabric patterning is quite close  to a dress in the LACMA. 60% or so.

Hours to Complete So, so, so many!

First worn: Not yet, but finished 4 minutes past midnight on New Years Day.

Total Cost  $70ish

Procrastination…

It’s coming up to the end of the year, and I’m reviewing everything I’ve accomplished this year, and feeling rather pleased with myself…

….but

…there is still, as always, SO  much more I wanted to get done this year, and didn’t, because I am perpetually over-ambitious!

I can let go of most of it, but I’m definitely disappointed that I  haven’t finished some of the costuming UFOs I started, and I’ve managed to create two new costuming UFOs (wailey wailey!).

So for the HSM 2016 Challenge #1: Procrastination  (due by the end of January), I’m going to be trying to finish one of the UFOs I shoved into the pile of shame and have been putting off finishing because the next step is hard work.

My options are:

  • 1930s crepe satin evening trousers I started four years ago and never finished because they are made from the most annoying fabric ever…
  • A 1930s swimsuit, also started 4 years ago.
  • And, what do you know, a 1920s lace evening dress started 4 years ago!  Four years ago was not a good time for me UFO-wise.

    1920s dress, Callot Soers, The Goldstein Museum of Art

    1920s dress, Callot Soers, The Goldstein Museum of Art

  • The Wearing History 1910s jacket to go with my skirt.  Next up is pockets and buttonholes, and that requires thinking and I don’t want to think!
    Wearing History's 1916 skirt thedreamstress.com - 8
  • The 1760s Frou Frou francaise.  That needs side pleating, sleeves, trim…quite a bit actually.
    1760s petticoat thedreamstress.com
  • The Red Elizabethan gown.  It just needs sleeves.  And new shoulder rolls.  The ones I made were…ummm…unsatisfactory.
    Red Velvet Elizabethan thedreamstress.com
  • A proper medieval shift, partly started, being worked through whenever I have hand-sewing time.
  • An un-proper Regency shift (I started it and became increasingly convinced the fabric was part rayon).
  • The 1760s chine a la branch petticoat.  This is going to be part of an 18th c robe a la francaise ensemble.  One day.  Right now, it’s being ignored because looking at it makes me want to vomit.  Literally.  (yes, actually literally, not figuratively!).
  • Emily’s 1903 evening dress.  Yeah.  That’s probably not going to happen.  Though all those pintucks might be relaxing.

    Detail of the train of Emily's dress

    Detail of the train of Emily’s dress

  • The 1720s robe de cour.  This is on hold because I think I don’t actually have enough fabric to do it properly.  I’ve got an idea of how to rescue it (pictured below), but it won’t be an 18th century robe de cour.

    Caspar Netscher (circa 1639—1684), Lady at the Window, 1666, Von der Heydt-Museum

    Caspar Netscher (circa 1639—1684), Lady at the Window, 1666, Von der Heydt-Museum

The Elizabethan is both incredibly tempting because I was working on it not that long ago, and incredibly UN-tempting, because I remember exactly why I set it aside!  Realistically, my January is chocca, so I need to pick a fairly simple project, which means one of the 1920s/30s things, or the  chine a la branch  petticoat, or a shift.

Then there are all the things I’ve been procrastinating on even starting (which is a perfectly valid interpretation of the challenge), but with so many UFOs, I think I’d  best not  get into them.

So that’s my list of shame!  It will feel good to dig one of those out of the pile, and get it finished off!

What about you?  What’s your UFO pile looking like?  What have you been putting off getting in to?  What are your goals for the procrastination challenge?