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Day dress, 1897, Historic Deerfield Museum

Rate the Dress: Deep Blue Day Dress

This week’s Rate the Dress dress is brought to you by my latest research and sewing deep dive. I’m obsessed with the big sleeves of the mid-1890s. I’ll show you the results of my research and experimentation in due course.

For now, it’s a slightly belated Rate the Dress – and an imperfect one. I’m having trouble with the ‘Comment’ function on the blog. I can see how many comments there are on a post. I can see the actual comments behind-the-scenes. Alas, however, comments aren’t showing up on the post so you can see what other people have written, and have a conversation.

If I can’t fix the problem we’ll just have an interesting experiment in which we find out what people think of a garment without seeing others reactions…

Last Week: a pink and green 1780s gown

Some of you liked last week’s dress, but no one loved it. Unusually for the 1780s it didn’t receive a single 10/10 rating. Everyone felt there was something not quite right: the colours too clashing, the proportions a little off, or the embroidery not worth the effort.

The Total: 7.1 out of 10

It’s a slight improvement on the week before, but hardly a stellar rating.

This week: an 1890s day dress in petrol blue

This week’s dress Rate the Dress is an upmarket, but not quite couture level, 1890s day dress.

Day dress, 1897, Historic Deerfield Museum
Day dress, 1897, Historic Deerfield Museum

It features a bodice with slim fore-sleeves in taffeta and large upper sleeves in silk velvet. The silhouette of the sleeves is made even more visually impressive by a matching velvet berthe collar. The collar travels up from the front of the bodice, falls over the sleeves, and hangs on either side of the back bodice seam. At the front it frames buttons which are both functional and decorative.

Day dress, 1897, Historic Deerfield Museum
Day dress, 1897, Historic Deerfield Museum

The fore-sleeves are decorated with widely spaced bands of velvet trim. The same bands are echoed on the skirt’s hem, forming its only trim. The strong horizontal lines are repeated in the back belt and in the standing collar.

Day dress, 1897, Historic Deerfield Museum
Day dress, 1897, Historic Deerfield Museum

The skirt is the slim, structured A-line of the late 1890s, and could easily be made from the Scroop Fantail Skirt pattern, with gathers instead of pleats and a slight train.

Day dress, 1897, Historic Deerfield Museum
Day dress, 1897, Historic Deerfield Museum

The gathers of the skirt are repeated on the low collar, and an additional note of softness is added to the dress through dual rosette on the back and front of the velvet belt.

It’s an overall play of severe and soft, all held together with a harmonious colour scheme in one plush fabric and one hard fabric.

What do you think? Is this an elegant and tasteful gown for a place and situation when wearing Worth would have been showing off?  

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

A reminder about rating — feel free to be critical if you don’t like a thing, but make sure that your comments aren’t actually insulting to those who do like a garment.  Phrase criticism as your opinion, rather than a flat fact. Our different tastes are what make Rate the Dress so interesting.  It’s no fun when a comment implies that anyone who doesn’t agree with it, or who would wear a garment, is totally lacking in taste. 

As usual, nothing more complicated than a .5.  I also hugely appreciate it if you only do one rating, and set it on a line at the very end of your comment.

Te Aro Dress & Top ScroopPatterns.com

Meet the Scroop Te Aro Dress & Top!

This fabulous knits pattern is my homage to downtown Wellington: a pattern with options for everyone you meet among the cafes, universities, museums, and businesses of the Te Aro District.

Te Aro Dress & Top ScroopPatterns.com

It features dropped shoulders, a cocoon shape, and mix-and-match neckline, sleeve, and hem options for a whole wardrobe of looks in one pattern.  

With so many options the pattern goes from fashion-student street-cool, to weekend waterfront brunch casual, to art-curator elegant at the national museum.

Te Aro Dress & Top ScroopPatterns.com

Get it on sale!

To celebrate the launch, the Te Aro Dress & Top pattern is 25% off for the next week. No need for a code: the discount is applied automatically at checkout.

Buy it now!

View A

This casual dress version features long sleeves finished with cuff bands, a matching hem band, nice big side pockets with curved pocket opening, and an oversized hood. It’s designed to end just above the knee.

View B

Is a knit top with finishing details that elevate it above a standard T-Shirt. It has a curved hem with side slits and a dropped back hem, both faced in lightweight knit fabric, short sleeves finished with bands, and a scooped neck.

View C 

The dressiest version of the Te Aro features extravagant gathered sleeves in lightweight woven fabrics, a drop hem faced with knit fabric, the same pockets as View A, and a shallow scooped neck. The dropped hem is designed to sit just above the knee in front, and just below the knee in back.

Or Mix and Match…

Here’s a View B with View A sleeves & View C neckline:

Te Aro Dress & Top ScroopPatterns.com

And a View C with View B neckline:

Te Aro Dress & Top ScroopPatterns.com

And all the options are so comfortable and cozy they are basically stealth pyjamas!

Te Aro Dress & Top ScroopPatterns.com

I hope you like the pattern as much as I do. I have 9 versions in my personal wardrobe already!

Buy it now!

Costume Showcase at Toi Whakaari

Watch Toi Whakaari’s Costume Showcase live tonight!

I teach Costume Construction at Toi Whakaari: New Zealand Drama School.

In their first year of study students in the department learn, among other things: core sewing techniques; workshop practice; patternmaking; hatmaking; dyeing, printing and finishing techniques; costume history, and the costume design process.

By the end of Term 3 (out of 4) they will have made: a boned historical undergarment; a multi-part historical dress using theatrical techniques; a wired buckram hat; various accessories that utilise dyeing and printing techniques; and a pattern and completed garment which they have developed from a sloper.

In their second year of study students build on these skills, learning: advanced millinery; advanced corsetry; tailoring; costume for dance (often making costumes for the Royal NZ Ballet); and EVA & Worbla skills. In addition they do industry secondments and learn how to manage wardrobes for stage and screen productions.

At the same time these graduating students are asked to choose a costume design (it can be an actual costume design, a painting, concept art, etc.) to bring to life as faithfully as possible. They are given a budget of NZ$300 to do this. They spend all year (when they aren’t in other classes!) researching, testing, and building their costumes. They work with a model they have selected from among the students at Toi Whakaari to create a character and story for their costume.

The culmination of all this work for both years is Costume Showcase: a theatrical mini-extravaganza featuring performance and dance and their costumes.

It’s a chance for friends and family to celebrate the student’s work, and see it up close.

Unfortunately this year Covid-19 restrictions mean that we can only have a tiny audience for Costume Showcase, but that comes with a benefit for you.

We’ll be livestreaming tonight’s 6:30 showing of Costume Showcase!

I hope you enjoy the show! I’m phenomenally proud of all the students: they did all this despite missing 2 months of in-person tuition, and access to all our specialised equipment, due to lockdown.

And I’m phenomenally proud of the crew. The show is hugely directed and managed by current students or recent graduates, and they have done so well working around uncertainty and changing restrictions.

But wait there’s more! You can also follow @Toi_Costume on instagram for a peek into their world (the account is student-led).

And, if you are planning to apply to the course don’t forget that applications for 2021 close this week, on the 25th!