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Making your own fitted sheets thedreamstress.com

Re-make & re-use: how to turn old flat sheets into fitted sheets

Has anyone else noticed that you just can’t buy good quality cotton sheets anymore?

Sheets I bought when I first moved to NZ 15 years ago are still going strong, but anything I’ve bought in the last five years (when we upgraded our bed size) lasts less than three years, even when it’s the same brand.

Making your own fitted sheets  thedreamstress.com
(seriously! This isn’t cool!)

And that’s an issue. Cotton (even organic) is not great for the environment, and the best way to lower its impact is to get as much use as possible out of anything cotton that you buy. Three years for sheets = not good.

To get a little more use out of the extremely disappointing sheets I’ve purchased in the last 5 years, I’ve been recycling the sheets that have worn out.

I turn the fabric around the edges of worn out fitted sheets into pillowcases, and do the same with flat sheets that are very thin, or where there are tears in the middle.

If there is enough robust fabric left in a flat sheet, I turn it into a fitted sheet. This is also a great thing to do with vintage flat sheets, which last forever, and come often come in smaller sizes (holdovers of the days when adult couples slept in single beds – who uses a king single today!).

It’s kind of weird, but I get a lot of satisfaction out of being able to ‘make’ my own sheets: remaking a thing to be useful, keeping it out of the waste system for as long as possible, giving it its best possible life.

I shared some snippets of the process on instagram, and people asked me to show how I do it.

So here’s how to make a fitted sheet from a flat sheet!

Making your own fitted sheets  thedreamstress.com

Measurements:

First, measure your mattress top: you need to know the:

  • length
  • width
  • depth
  • circumference (length + width x 2)

Materials: Version A

This version is made with one long length of fabric that covers the mattress top and both ends, and narrow pieces that cover the sides of the mattress.

You’re going to need:

  • An old sheet/piece of an old sheet as long as the top of your mattress + 2x the depth of the mattress + 8″/20cm + 1″/3cm (for seam allowance) and as wide as your mattress + 1″/3cm (for seam allowance)
  • Scraps of old sheets/fabric enough to make 2 lengths as long as your mattress + 1″/3cm (for seam allowance) and as deep as your mattress + 4″/10cm
  • Elastic about 1/2″/1.2cm wide x the circumference of your mattress minus 20%
Making your own fitted sheets  thedreamstress.com

Version A Top Assembly:

You’ll be sewing the big top piece to the narrow side pieces, turning the corner at the short ends, to form the top and bottom of the fitted sheet.

Making your own fitted sheets  thedreamstress.com

Start by sewing a short end of one Piece B to the long side of Piece A. 1/2″/1.5cm* from the end of the short side of Piece B, sink your needle, and turn the corner of Piece B.

Making your own fitted sheets thedreamstress.com

Continue sewing the long edge of Piece B to the long edge of Piece A. 1/2″/1.5cm* before you reach the long end of Piece B, sink your needle, and turn the corner of Piece B so that you can sew down the second short end, forming two corners on either end of your sheet.

Making your own fitted sheets  thedreamstress.com

Repeat the same steps to join the second Piece B to the other long edge of Piece A, so you have your assembled sheet which fits neatly over the mattress.

Finish all your seams as desired.

Materials: Version B

This version is made with one moderately long length of fabric that covers the mattress top, two long narrow pieces that cover the sides of the mattress, and two short narrow pieces that cover the ends of the mattress

You’re going to need:

  • An old sheet/piece of an old sheet as long as the top of your mattress + 8″/20cm + 1″/3cm (for seam allowance) and as wide as your mattress + 1″/3cm (for seam allowance)
  • Scraps of old sheets/fabric enough to make 2 lengths as long as your mattress + 1″/3cm (for seam allowance) and as deep as your mattress + 4″/10cm
  • Scraps of old sheets/fabric enough to make 2 lengths as wide as your mattress + 1″/3cm (for seam allowance) and as deep as your mattress + 4″/10cm
  • Elastic about 1/2″/1.2cm wide x the circumference of your mattress minus 25%
Sheet Tutorial Version B thedreamstress.com

Version B Top Assembly:

Sew Pieces B to Piece A like so:

Sheet Tutorial Version B thedreamstress.com

Then assemble the rest of the sheet top exactly as with Version A.

Finish all the seams as desired.

Elastic:

Making your own fitted sheets  thedreamstress.com

I was super lucky to find an entire roll of suitable elastic at an op shop for only $5.

I don’t measure my elastic as I apply it to my sheet: simply stretch and sew. However, if you really want to measure. a 25% reduction in elastic compared to the circumference should be a good amount.

If you’re doing an exact measure, mark quarters & eights in your elastic, and quarters & eighths in your sheet circumference. Match the quarters and eights before you sew, and then stretch between them as you sew.

Making your own fitted sheets  thedreamstress.com

If you’re doing what I do, and stretch as you sew, just stretch a moderate amount as you sew around the sheet.

Match the elastic to the WRONG side of the sheet, sew it on, and then fold the elastic in toward the wrong side of the sheet, to cover the elastic and form a neat edge visible from the outside, and then sew again.

Making your own fitted sheets  thedreamstress.com

Ta da! You are done!

Making your own fitted sheets  thedreamstress.com

Hopefully I’ll get a few more years use out of these sheets. And then they can get used again, as toiles, and then cleaning clothes. Re-use, re-use, re-use!

May I sleep on them as peacefully as Felicity….

Felicity the sewing cat thedreamstress.com

*yep, I know they aren’t the same, but I did the imperial measures for this tutorial with a 1/2″ seam allowance, and the metric with 1.5cm.

Dress, Emile Pingat, Paris, 1897, Silk velvet & silk compound weave with supplementary warp floats, linen lace, cotton, silk, and metallic-thread applique & glass beads, LACMA M.2012.95.123a-b

Rate the Dress: Red Velvet & Rorschach blobs

This week Rate the Dress goes from very literal trompe l’oeil ruffles, to a dress with an abstract pattern that becomes a textile Rorschach test: what do you see in the ripples and blobs?

Last Week: a first-bustle-era morning dress in border-print cotton

How you rated last week’s dress really hinged on how you felt about the border print and the trompe l’oeil ruffle. Some of you really enjoyed the print, and thought it was inventive and witty. Others found it fussy, saccharine, and mismatched. And then there was a third segment who liked elements of the dress, but didn’t feel it pulled off the overall look.

The Total: 7 out of 10

An unresolved rating for an unresolved dress.

This week: an 1890s day dress with all the trimmings

This week’s Rate the Dress is an 1890s day dress that might have been worn by the daughter of last week’s dresses owner: it’s equally decadent, impractical, and inventive in its design and use of fabric.

Dress, Emile Pingat, Paris, 1897, Silk velvet & silk compound weave with supplementary warp floats, linen lace, cotton, silk, and metallic-thread applique & glass beads, LACMA M.2012.95.123a-b
Dress, Emile Pingat, Paris, 1897, Silk velvet & silk compound weave with supplementary warp floats, linen lace, cotton, silk, and metallic-thread applique & glass beads, LACMA M.2012.95.123a-b

Pingat was a top tier Parisian couturier in the 1890s: commanding prices and status comparable to the House of Worth. Whoever wore this dress had the money to invest in a garment that had every bell and whistle of 1897’s fashion whim. From quirky geometric skirt trim, to bolero effect bodices, full sleeves with extra eccentric epaulette overlays, pointed collars, and lace jabots, it has everything and the fashion kitchen sink.

Dress, Emile Pingat, Paris, 1897, Silk velvet & silk compound weave with supplementary warp floats, linen lace, cotton, silk, and metallic-thread applique & glass beads, LACMA M.2012.95.123a-b
Dress, Emile Pingat, Paris, 1897, Silk velvet & silk compound weave with supplementary warp floats, linen lace, cotton, silk, and metallic-thread applique & glass beads, LACMA M.2012.95.123a-b

Not even the skirt fabric gives your eye a place to rest: it features a fashionable weave, probably Japanese inspired, with a cloud pattern in shades that change from pastel to grey and gold, depending on the angle and distance you view it from.

Dress, Emile Pingat, Paris, 1897, Silk velvet & silk compound weave with supplementary warp floats, linen lace, cotton, silk, and metallic-thread applique & glass beads, LACMA M.2012.95.123a-b
Dress, Emile Pingat, Paris, 1897, Silk velvet & silk compound weave with supplementary warp floats, linen lace, cotton, silk, and metallic-thread applique & glass beads, LACMA M.2012.95.123a-b
Dress, Emile Pingat, Paris, 1897, Silk velvet & silk compound weave with supplementary warp floats, linen lace, cotton, silk, and metallic-thread applique & glass beads, LACMA M.2012.95.123a-b
Dress, Emile Pingat, Paris, 1897, Silk velvet & silk compound weave with supplementary warp floats, linen lace, cotton, silk, and metallic-thread applique & glass beads, LACMA M.2012.95.123a-b

What do you think of this frock. Is it fashion forward, or simply ascribing to all the fashion fads, and not in a good way?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

A reminder about rating — feel free to be critical if you don’t like a thing, but make sure that your comments aren’t actually insulting to those who do like a garment.  Phrase criticism as your opinion, rather than a flat fact. Our different tastes are what make Rate the Dress so interesting.  It’s no fun when a comment implies that anyone who doesn’t agree with it, or who would wear a garment, is totally lacking in taste. 

(as usual, nothing more complicated than a .5.  I also hugely appreciate it if you only do one rating, and set it on a line at the very end of your com

My 2019 Historical Sewing Year in Review

If I did a 2018 sewing round up, or set myself sewing goals for 2019, I don’t remember it, and can’t find it. So 2019 was a blank slate: I got done what I got done. And that’s kind of nice.

I’ve been trying to be less demanding of myself. I wish I could do all the things, all the time, and I tend to beat myself up mentally when I can’t. So for the last few years I’ve been trying to just be happy with what I do, and I think I’m getting there!

And I did do pretty well! Three Scroop patterns out, including the incredible hydra of a pattern that is the Augusta Stays (seriously, the amount of stuff we included in that pattern…it’s really four patterns, and was certainly the work of four standard patterns). A bunch of wardrobe sewing for me, a bunch of sewing for my mum (I packed more clothes for her than for myself in my recent trip home!).

And actually quite a lot of historical sewing as well, which, with a bit of “OK, I finished that challenge really late” means I completed my seventh full Historical Sew Monthly (actually, the first two were fortnightly, so that’s even more insane!).

So here’s my historical sewing roundup for 2019, as told through the Historical Sew Monthly challenges:

January: Dressed to the Nines

“Make something fancy so you’ll be ‘dressed to the nines’ — whether its the full outfit, or a little accessory. Or look at the challenge in a different way, and make something from a year ending in 9 (find a portrait or fashion plate or mention to support the date), or even an item with 9 major design elements (9 buttons down the front, 9 tucks in a petticoat etc)”

A dress made from a 1919 pattern thedreamstress.com

I finished my 1919 ‘Not Another Blue Dress’ at the end of January, wore it for a photoshoot with Theresa in February, and gave it a bit of a spiff up for Costume College in August. And I love it and am so happy with it! It’s 1919 and I feel dressed to the nines in it, even if it’s just a day dress.

FebruaryLinen/linens

“Make something out of linen, or that falls under the older definition of linens: ie: underclothes (lingerie literally means linen)”

1760s stays with theatrical construction thedreamstress.com

I stretched the definition of the challenge just ]a little bit, and made 1760s stays – they are an undergarment, but weren’t always technically considered linens. I also used theatrical instead of historical construction techniques, so it was a very soft entry. But they do give me a lovely silhouette!

March: Sewing Kit

“Create an item that makes use of your favourite sewing tool, instrument, or gadget; or an item made for your historical sewing kit (huswif, pinball)”

The NZSEHR 2019 in Augusta Stays thedreamstress.com

I’m going to count my historical Augusta Stays for this, because they used almost every tool in my sewing kit, literally and mentally! Thimbles, awls, brushes for buckram, sewing wax, needles, different types of thread, bone snips, sandpaper. Plus patternmaking, grading, digital everything…

I didn’t finish them in March, but I certainly worked on them solidly for the whole month!

April: Upping your game:

“Make something that really stretches you and that works on the bits that you tend to rush through or skimp on.”

1790s jumps from the pattern in Jill Salen's Corsets, thedreamstress.com

My 1790s jumps lift me up and definitely lift my late 18th century costuming game!

MayFlorals

“Create an item that features flowers in some way.”

An 18th century re-use pocket thedreamstress.com

Not historically perfect, but these pockets feature bugs, birds, bees, and another nod to nature in their very green fabric re-use.

JuneFavourite Technique

“Make an item using your favourite sewing or embellishment technique.”

A Regency Captain Janeway cosplay, thedreamstress.com

My 1790s sleeveless spencer features not just one, but four, of my favourite techniques! Follow the link to find out what they are.

A Regency Captain Janeway cosplay, thedreamstress.com

JulyUnexpected

“Make an item with an unexpected feature. Will it be a snazzy lining, a hidden pocket, or something else? Surprise us!”

Costume College Gala 2019

 Lounging pyjamas were certainly unexpected in 1913. And the construction is quite unexpected – they are basically very elegant diapers!

AugustOut of a Portrait:

“Lift a garment out of a portrait, and make it up to include in your wardrobe.”

The Scroop Patterns & Virgil's Fine Goods Augusta Stays scrooppatterns.com

I (with help from awesome friends) made a linen petticoat and apron to wear with my Augusta Stays at Costume College so that Amber, Cait & I could be the fruit sellers from Wheatley’s ‘Cries of London’

Strawberrys Scarlet Strawberrys, Francis Wheatley, 1792-95

SeptemberEveryday:

“It’s not all special occasion frocks. Make something that would have been worn or used for everyday.”

A late 18th c kerchief thedreamstress.com

This kerchief is so simple I haven’t blogged it, but it’s a fun item, which makes me very happy, and instantly turns an everyday outfit from the late 18thc or early 19thc from boring to fun.

A late 18thc kerchief thedreamstress.com

OctoberDetails

“Sometimes the little things really make something fabulous. Focus on the details of your garment, to create something that just gets better the closer you look.”

An early 18th c shift thedreamstress.com
An early 18th c shift thedreamstress.com
An early 18th c shift thedreamstress.com

Another thing I haven’t managed to blog yet, but I (finally) finished an early 18th c shift I started back in 2017. It’s a simple thing, but all the details elevate it: whipped gathers, hand worked buttonholes, flat felled seams. A very useful addition to my historical wardrobe.

NovemberAbove the Belt

“No hitting low! Let’s keep things on the up and up as the year closes, and make something worn above the belt.”  

The NZSEHR 2019 in Regency thedreamstress.com

This one I will be blogging, because it’s certainly interesting enough, but it’s already made appearances in my posts about the plantain game, and feeding kunekune pigs.

But wait, there’s more!

Medieval veil pins thedreamstress.com

With guidance from Nina, I also made Medieval pins, perfect for holding my veil in place over my wimple.

DecemberOn a Shoestring

“It’s an expensive time of year, so make an item on a tight budget (say, under $15, or less than you’d spend on a reasonable priced takeaway meal for one person in your country — and no ‘stash’ doesn’t count as free: you still have to count what you would have originally paid for those items).”

I made a wimple. It’s just a rectangle of hemmed linen, but it’s a nice addition to my 14thc wardrobe. And, at $11 for 1/2 a meter of linen that I got on sale for $22pm, it qualifies nicely for the challenge, even if something spectacular that I managed to

This one I haven’t even photographed, because as soon as I finished it I either put it somewhere ‘safe’ or lent it to a friend to copy!

And that’s all folks!

Except for these:

Augusta Stays thedreamstress.com

Theatrical Augusta Stays. Not quite historical, but they give a historical silhouette. And they’re so pretty….

And my Regency Captain Janeway diadem and ‘kashmiri’ shawl.

A Regency Captain Janeway cosplay, thedreamstress.com