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Terminology: What is scroop?

This week I thought I would do a fun little terminology post, and when your term is scroop, there is no way you can’t have fun!

What is scroop?  Scroop is the sound that taffeta makes.

Really.

Yes, it is an actual, proper, technical textile term (not like all those costuming collective nouns that we came up with).

Both silk and rayon taffetas (and some other silk and rayon fabrics) can have scroop, but it’s not caused by the weave, or the quality of the fabric.  Scroop is added with a special acid treatment, which hardens the filament yarns that the fabric  is woven from, making them rustle more.

An early article on synthetic silk (rayon) mentions that it is shinier than real silk, but that its scroop is less.

1760s petticoat thedreamstress.com

1760s petticoat thedreamstress.com

1760s petticoat thedreamstress.com

Scroop has an equally  awesome synonym:  froufrou  (though since the 1950s people have begun to use it to mean frilly, rather than rustle-y, leading to a shift in the meaning).

(bonus awesome  thing – there was a British peer names Scroop Egerton, he was the Viscount of Brackley and then the Earl of Bridgewater)

Sources:

Cant, Jennifer and Fritz, Anne,  Consumer Textiles.  Melbourne: Oxford University Press.  1988

Online Encyclopedia Britannica

Rate the Dress: Marie Christine of Austria in somewhat less pink

What to say about last week’s dress….oh dear.  Not a lot of love from most of you.  So much to complain about…colour, textures, silhouette, and that pectoral fin.  Mostly colour though.  Some enterprising viewers noted that if you were colourblind, the chartreuse and pale pink looked lovely together, and wondered if the wearer/maker had been colourblind.  Personally I rather liked the colours – they are so unexpected, and the Victorians did love to play with wild colour schemes.  I will agree that the dress had other issues, so despite the few people who really loved it, I’m not surprised that the final rating was a 3.4 out of 10

Since so many of you had problems with the colour, let’s tone the palette down in this weeks ‘Rate the Dress’.

The last time we looked at Marie Antoinette’s sister Marie Christine she was wearing pink, and lots of it.  You called her a ‘blinged out sheep’ with an 18th century mullet’, and still managed to give her a 6.5 out of 10.

Today her ensemble is considerably more subdued, as befits an outfit worn to spin thread.  She is a princess though, so she wasn’t restrained enough to leave off her trademark OTT jewellery.

Self-portrait of the Archduchess Marie Christine of Austria (1742-1798), daughter of Franz I and Maria Theresia, spouse of Albert, Prince of Saxony (1738-1822), circa 1765

Do you like her palest-grey gown, with muted blue bows and practical black apron?  What about the lace fichu, lace bonnet, and triple-pearl earrings?  Has she managed to combine industrious housewife with glamourous princess, or does Marie Christine just lack any semblance of fashion sense?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

A very ‘Gay Red Shirt’

Definition of  GAY (via  Merriam-Webster)

1
a  :  happily excited,  merry  <in a  gay  mood>
b  :  keenly alive and exuberant  :  having or inducing high spirits  <a bird’s  gay  spring song>
2
a  :  bright,  lively  <gay  sunny meadows>
b  :  brilliant in color

Having embarked on knitwear, I’m having lots of fun making simple knit tops and mastering my knit techniques.

I’d already earmarked this awesome red fabric with widely spaced navy blue & white stripes for a simple boat-necked T when  NZ’s Prime Minister stuck his foot in his mouth  and told someone they’d never make it because they were wearing ‘a gay red shirt’.  Wow.  Thanks John Key.

Whatever your feelings on homosexuality, using personal descriptors as insults is  NOT OK.

Everyone, up to and including Sir Ian McKellan, has come down on Mr Key for his comment.  He tried to defend himself by saying he heard his kids say it, and thought it meant ‘weird’.  I don’t think he’s helping his case at all.

Someone decreed Friday the 9th of October as ‘Gay Red Shirt Day’ as a protest against his insult, and hey, I’d just finished this and was planning to wear this  anyway.

I had an extremely gay time making my shirt  on Wednesday (it was so easy – and provided a fun alternative to following the US election), and wearing it on Friday to visit a friend and her four-year-old.  We gaily rambled along the beach, and spent a gay hour in the awesome neighborhood playground, going ’round & ’round on the octowobble, discovering that I am very bad at the ‘mouse house’ (like a hamster wheel for humans), and climbing to the top of the super slide and going down it over and over again.

I liked it so much I threw it in the wash that evening, hung it to dry over the dehumidifier, and wore it again on Sat.

In the afternoon Mr D and I went for an explore in the town belt with my camera.

It’s quite impossible to go on a ramble with me, especially in spring, without things getting very gay indeed.  I start bouncing along the trail and finding things and exclaiming over them “Ooooh…look!  Daisies!”  ”Oh, the first forget-me-nots of the year!  Aren’t they just darling?”, “A meadow!  With clover!  Lets go roll around in it!”, “Oooooh…honeysuckle!  Isn’t it just divine?”.  ”Oh look at that funny little shed with the graffiti!  Take a picture of me in front of it please!”

And I  skip.  And  frolic.

It’s quite ridiculous, and I just can’t help myself.

Oooh, speaking of getting excited, I really want to show you this picture:

It’s a terrible picture of me (what on earth am I doing with my hands?), but a great view of Wellington — and not the usual one you see on the tourist postcards.  Also, it’s full of glimpses of places where I’ve taken pictures.  The oval of grass on the far left is The Oval where I did the photoshoot for the  Win in Black & White jacket, and the red-shrouded tower that you can see behind it is the War Memorial Campanile, where we did the Grandma’s Blue Dress photoshoot.  The Campanile is right in front of the old Museum building where I did this photoshoot, and this photoshoot, and this photoshoot, and this talk.  Somewhere in the green hills right behind the Campanile is the valley from the  Rodeo & Wrangle outfit.  Wellington is such a photogenic little city!

To balance out the weird picture of me, here is my new favourite photo of me (even though the photo, and my shirt, make it clear that I have a little winter squidge to get rid of):

Just the facts, Ma’am:

Fabric:  90cm of mid-weight viscose jersey with added spandex, thrifted

Pattern:  3HoursPast’s Blank Canvas Tee, with a boatneck, and 8″ in length added so there would be a stripe at the hem.

Year:  2012

Notions:  Thread

And the insides?  Red, white & blue overlocking!

Hours:  2

First worn?:  Wed 7 November (US election day on the other side of the dateline) and then after a wash on Friday 9 November for GayRedShirt Day, and then  again  after a wash on Sat 10 Nov for a walk & photoshoot.

Wear again?:  Yes! in fact…

Make again?:  I think I’m going to have to, seeing as I’m tempted to wear it constantly!

Total cost:  $2