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A 1900s touch of blue corset

Corset reproduction, circa 1905, thedreamstress.com

If you’re a longtime reader of my blog, you’ll remember Theresa: she’s a former Wellingtonian, and every time she comes back for a visit, we dress up and do a photoshoot together.

We’ve done ca. 1880 (one and two), 17th & 18thc yellow (one, two and three), hoopskirts (one, two, and three), and Regency (one, two & hair), but Theresa has been asking for a 1900s photoshoot for ages.

To do 1900s properly, first I had to finish the two S-bend corsets I’ve been working on for well over a year.

Corset circa 1905, thedreamstress.com

This is the second TV1901 corset that I’ve started, but they were both finished at the same time.  The first one got abandoned for a long, long time due to frustration when I realised how much the sizing was off.  I’ll be covering that in more detail when I blog about my original attempt, but basically, the sizing doesn’t work in smaller waist/bust measures unless you also have a very small ribcage as well.  This particular corset is 3 sizes larger than Theresa’s recommended measurements, and while it could be a size smaller (it laces fully closed), it’s still nicely snug.  And Theresa has an average ribcage!

Corset reproduction, circa 1905, thedreamstress.com

Despite the headaches with fit, I’m very pleased with the end result.  There is still no space for hip padding, and only the tiniest space for bust padding, and overall I’d like a more exaggerated shape, but it was very comfortable to wear.

Corset reproduction, circa 1905, thedreamstress.com

Before the main photoshoot, we got these images of the new unders, along with my new-old 1923 Singer sewing machine.

Corset reproduction, circa 1905, thedreamstress.com

Felicity naturally showed up to investigate the excitement, so I picked her up for Theresa to pose with.  Felicity was not impressed.  She behaved very well, but she clearly doesn’t trust that Theresa isn’t going to drop her!

Corset reproduction, circa 1905, thedreamstress.com

This was finished the day of the photoshoot – 22 December, so it’s perfect for a very-slightly-early start to the 2017 Historical Sew Monthly

What the item is: a 1901-8 corset

The Challenge: #1 Firsts & Lasts – this is the first piece of a really fabulously frilly 1900s outfit that I want to make.

Fabric/Materials: 1m of ribbed cotton, op-shop find ($2)

Pattern: Truly Victorian TVE01- 1903 S-Curve Corset

Year: 1901-8

Notions: cotton thread, a busk ($30), grommets ($5), synthetic whalebone ($20).

How historically accurate is it?  I chose to do flat felled seams, rather than leaving them open, and while I think I’ve seen this done in-period, I can’t find my references on it, and I may be mis-remembering.  My fabric is close, but not a perfect match to any fabric I can find used in a corset of this period.  I used a weird mix of threads, because I kept finding myself away from home, with only this to work on, and not exactly the right white cotton thread, so it’s a bit of a mish-mash if you look very closely.  I’m going to say 70%

Hours to complete: Oh dear….  30+

First worn: For a photoshoot, 22 December.

Corset reproduction, circa 1905, thedreamstress.com

7 Comments

  1. I had some of the same issues with mine, so I just inserted giant back hip gores a la Norah Waughs 1900 corset pattern.
    But yours look lovely all the same!

  2. I’ve used some of the Truly Victorian patterns myself (though not any of the corset patterns), and I’ve read a number of reviews of Heather’s patterns. They do tend to present fitting issues for some body types. Still, this one looks very good on Theresa. Great work!

    • Yeah, I’ve used quite a few of them too, and used lots of them with students. Usually they run a size big though! Lack of curves is pretty common, so the snugness in the hips isn’t too surprising.

  3. Lyndsey says

    Well I think it’s very pretty. I really like the patterned braid along the bust line. I am rather fascinated with how they managed to achieve the S-bend look from this period…the other under garments needed to create it – padding etc….not sure if you’ve blogged about that before?

  4. Theresa says

    Lovely photos of a lovely corset and kitty. Okay, and I felt pretty lovely as well.

    Thanks for making my historical dreams come true!

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