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A Fortnight in 1916: Clothing

You’ve gotten some hints, but many people have asked what my wardrobe was like for my Fortnight in 1916.

I did a great deal of research in diaries and newspaper articles, and assembled what I thought resembled a fairly middle of the road wardrobe for a housewife to wear during a two week period in Wellington in August 1916.  One thing my researched revealed is that, just like today, there was probably a fair amount of variation in wardrobes, even in the same social class.  Some of us own dozens of bras, some of us own 2: the same was true in 1916.

Here, however, is my best guess at what a middle class Wellington housewife would have worn over a two week period in winter 1916 (eta: her total wardrobe would have been bigger, particularly in terms of accessories, one or two nice outfits, and seasonal items, but that didn’t come up in my fortnight):

Five combinations:

Clothing for a Fortnight in 1916, thedreamstress.com

My research indicates very poor women only had one set of undergarments, and even some ‘middle class’ women did with as few as two, but might also have as many as 10.  Wool long combinations were probably more common for winter wear, but combinations of this pattern were definitely known in NZ in this period.  All were made from Wearing History’s Combination pattern.  

Two longline corsets:

Clothing for a Fortnight in 1916, thedreamstress.comAs you know, one was great, the other…not so much.

Eight pairs of stockings:

Clothing for a Fortnight in 1916, thedreamstress.com

One for each day of the week, and one for wash day!

Four corset covers:  

Clothing for a Fortnight in 1916, thedreamstress.com

Two were made from my own pattern, two from Wearing History’s corset cover pattern.

Three petticoats:

Clothing for a Fortnight in 1916, thedreamstress.com

All cotton, but a wool flannel petticoat might still have been common during the winter of 1916.

Four blouses:

Clothing for a Fortnight in 1916, thedreamstress.com

Two based on Wearing History’s Edwardian Blouse, one is Wearing History’s Elsie blouse, and the fourth one is taken from a 1910s blouse I own, was sewn during the fortnight, on my 1893 Singer 27!

Three Skirts:

Clothing for a Fortnight in 1916, thedreamstress.com

Plus, one pair of shoes, two hats, a cardigan, a cardigan jacket, two pairs of gloves, and a coat!

It makes a fine pile of garments:

Clothing for a Fortnight in 1916, thedreamstress.com

Rate the Dress: subtle and sparkly 1908

There has been no Rate the Dress for the last two weeks, because I was focusing on the Fortnight in 1916, but it’s back!  Last time I did a Rate the Dress I showed two things that have not, in the past, done very well on RTD: childrenswear, and blue-green combinations.  In this case though, reactions ranged from a sprinkling of ‘it’s a nice dress, not fabulous, but I shall give it a 7’ to a LOT of ‘I want to make it!  Love!’ 10s.  Big pockets and historicism for the win!  It came in at a perfect 9 out of 10.

The last couple of weeks have been very stressful for me, for reasons that had nothing to do with the Fortnight, so I’m feeling the need for something soothing and restful in the way of frocks.  While I would never say ‘oooh, that colour is amazing!’ about a length of fabric the shade of this dress, I find looking at it very relaxing and soothing.

For me, it’s a shade that’s very appealing without being demanding: the kind of thing you wear when you want to be impeccably dressed, the epitome of tastefulness, without shouting for  attention.

The embroidery on this dress gives  a definite twist to dress, taking it from potentially retiring, to quite interesting.  The colour scheme is subtle, but the layout is unexpected, and the intricate patterning moves the eye around the dress, drawing it upward to the wearer.

What do you think? Is it still a yawn? Or just the right mix of detail, subtlety and refinement?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

1916: it gets better…

There is just 36 hours left in my 1916 experiment, and while I am to the point where I’m not just counting the days, but the hours, and while I have done more than a little whinging, I have to admit…it gets better.

The longer I do it, the easier it gets.  The more the corset fits my body, the easier it is to live  in the clothes, the more I really learn to move and work and rest with them, and the more familiar I am with every task that I do.

Odds and ends of silk ribbon and lace were used to make this dainty little apron. Observer, 11 March 1916

Odds and ends of silk ribbon and lace were used to make this dainty little apron. Observer, 11 March 1916

It was really hard for the first week, and then not so hard.

I did more than  twice as much laundry the second time around, but took the same amount of time.  I can get a three course dinner on the table with under 45 minutes  of actual work for most meals (cooking time is a totally different story!  No pressure cookers!).  I’ve even gotten better at ironing, and washing dishes with a stupid bristle brush and a washrag.

 

I think if I lived in 1916 as I have been for two full months, I’d be quite handy, and by six months, transitioning back to the modern world would be as discomforting and hard as transitioning to 1916 was (we’ll find out if there are any transition hiccups in just a wee while!).

And there are things about 1916 that are better than 2016, things I will try to carry into my modern life.

At the same time, I’m still very, very grateful that I live in 2016 – partly for some of the modern technologies (I’m going to kiss my pressure cooker, and it’s not even that modern!), but mostly because I am grateful for the freedom that we have to have our own opinions, and to do our own thing.

A woman in 1916 NZ was much luckier than her counterparts in most of the world: she could vote, own property, run a business, and even divorce her husband (while still having a chance of keeping the kids) under a much wider range of circumstances than those available in most of the rest of the West.   She could choose her own faith, go out to eat (but not drink), and travel on her own.

But for men and women, particularly during the war, there were massive social constraints.  The government controlled the news, and nothing which could impact the war effort or moral (i.e. no dissenting opinions) could be published.  Voicing anything seen as unpatriotic or anti-war could get you fired and ostracised within your community.    NZ took one of the harshest lines on conscientious objectors of any Allied country, imprisoning and torturing them during the war, and denying them voting rights for a decade after.

WWI, in particular, was a very hard time to be a foreigner (i.e. not of British extraction) in New Zealand.  Men of German background (including those who had specifically left Germany because they disproved of the German government) were imprisoned in detention centres on islands in Wellington & Auckland.  People with foreign names found themselves socially ostracised, and their businesses were boycotted, or even destroyed (drunken riots targeting ‘foreign’ businesses happened in nearly every major town and city in the country during the war).

While I love reading the newspapers of 1916, it quickly became apparent how shallow and repetitive they are: how little of the reporting encourages independent thinking or further investigation.  It also becomes apparent how divided the classes were.  NZ has always been more egalitarian than Great Britain, but there were still strong divides between the social classes, and not much opportunity for movement.  Even more obvious is the divide between Pakeha (white) and Maori society of the time: and how much racism their was.

The work of 1916 hasn’t been too bad, and the clothing becomes easier, but I am eminently, fervently, grateful not to live in the period.

It would have been such a narrow, constrained, repressed life in so many ways.  There were so few opportunities for women, so little room for dissent.  The biggest blessings of the modern world are not the time and labour savers (though those are nice), but our ability to have our own beliefs; to access so much information, so that our beliefs can actually be informed; to have friends with a whole range of opinions, from a range of backgrounds.  These I will never cease to be grateful for.  It’s not a perfect time: there is still so much more to work for, and so many threats, but things have gotten better, so much of the work has already been done, and it’s still a better time to live in than any other.