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Sew & Eat Historical Retreat thedreamstress.com

The 1st Annual* NZ Sew & Eat Historical Retreat

This time last year, when I realised that I couldn’t afford to go to Costume College 2018, I sobbed** about it to some friends, and the amazing Miss Priscilla said “Awww, we’ll throw a New Zealand CoCo for you”.

Which is a pretty amazing offer considering that Priscilla isn’t a historical costumer!

In wonderful synchronicity, Nina  of Smash the Stash had had me bring back a bunch of Regency sewing patterns from CoCo 17 so she could make a Regency wardrobe, and she started holding monthly historical sewing get-togethers.

So once a month for all of 2018 Nina, Priscilla***, Eloise of Linen and Lining, and Hvitr of Historical Living  (and sometimes Madame O) have been getting together and working on historical sewing projects, and planning a reason to wear what we were working on.  And our reason, while not quite NZ CoCo, was wonderful and lovely (and maybe even better).

We settled on a Labour Day Weekend sewing and dress up retreat, and found an adorable cottage on a beautiful estate just an hours drive from Wellington to hold it at.  It was the five of us, and Zara of Off-Grid Chic, who we have recently converted to the dark-and-involving-lots-of-handsewing-side.

Nina is also interested in historical food†, so the retreat grew to include historical food.

And, despite a last-minute broken foot, and a really talented truck driver†† who managing to crash his truck full of hazardous goods so spectacularly that he closed the main road out of Wellington for almost 24 hours at the start of Labour Day Weekend, meaning that I had to drive the extremely-scary-I’m-never-going-to-do-that-again-unless-it’s-life-or-death Paekakariki Hill Road  â€ â€ â€  we had an AMAZING time.

I’ll post a bit more about our menus, but for now here are some of my favourite photos of the event.‡

I’m hoping that the other blogging members of the group will blog about their garments soon, so I won’t post too many individual images of anyone.

Saturday:

Sew & Eat Historical Retreat thedreamstress.com

Sew & Eat Historical Retreat thedreamstress.com

Sew & Eat Historical Retreat thedreamstress.com

Sew & Eat Historical Retreat thedreamstress.com

Sew & Eat Historical Retreat thedreamstress.com

Sew & Eat Historical Retreat thedreamstress.com

   Sunday:

Sew & Eat Historical Retreat thedreamstress.com

Sew & Eat Historical Retreat thedreamstress.com

Sew & Eat Historical Retreat thedreamstress.com

Sew & Eat Historical Retreat thedreamstress.com

Sew & Eat Historical Retreat thedreamstress.com

*Only we had so much fun we want it to be biannual, or triannual.

** Not really sobbed.  More ‘posted sad faces about it on Facebook’.

*** Who managed to sew four pairs of outrageously patterned pants, one dress she didn’t like, and no historical garments whatsoever.

†I’m blaming the fact that my Regency dress is too snug on the amazing Eccles cakes and other historical treats she trials on us every sewing get-together.

†† Don’t worry, he was barely hurt^ , so we can be suitably annoyed at him without feeling bad.

^ Except for his dignity, which I imagine was severely bruised.

††† And I’m from Hawai’i and have road tripped all over NZ, so my standard for ‘extremely scary’ is pretty high.  I’m totally OK with hairpin turns.  Hairpin turns with a sheer 200 meter drop on your side, and no guard rails^?  Not so fun.

^ And way-too-big for the road at any time muscle cars heading to a rally in Wellington on the mountain side.

‡ Taken by me if they don’t include me, and whoever isn’t in the photo if they do!

Sew & Eat Historical Retreat thedreamstress.com

The Otari Hoodie Sew Along Part 7, Bands, thedreamstress.com

The Otari Hoodie Sew-Along #7: Hem & Sleeve Bands

We’re more than halfway along in the Otari Hoodie Sew-Along!  Today’s post covers adding the hem and sleeve bands, and then it’s on to zips.

The Otari Hoodie by Scroop Patterns scrooppatterns.com

Buy the Otari Hoodie Pattern Here

In the previous Otari Hoodie Sew Along posts I covered:

For this part of the Sew Along I’m going to be using images taken when making the original sample Otari Hoodies for the pattern launch.

The numbering of the instructions in this post corresponds to the numbering of the pattern’s  instructions.

The Hem Band

15. Fold your hem band wrong sides together, lengthwise, so it forms a long narrow band, and press.

16. Right sides together, matching notches and front edges, pin/clip and sew your hem band to the bottom edge of the hoodie.

Tip>>>

You’ll need to stretch the hem band slightly to get it to fit: this will help the hoodie to sit nicely and smoothly around the body.  

The Otari Hoodie Sew Along Part 7, Bands, thedreamstress.com

Tip>>>

You can sew with a stretch stitch on a sewing machine, or an overlocker.  If using a stretch stitch on your machine, grade the seams once sewn, and then finish the edges with an overcast stitch (a zig zag will do just fine).

The Otari Hoodie Sew Along Part 7, Bands, thedreamstress.com

17.  Press seam down towards band.

Tip>>>

It’s a really good idea to check that the right and left front of your hoodie are perfectly symmetrical at this point.  You want the hem bands and tops of the pockets line up perfectly across the zip in the next big step.    

The Sleeve Bands

18/19. Fold your sleeve bands wrong sides together, with long edges matching, and press.

The Otari Hoodie Sew Along Part 7, Bands, thedreamstress.com

18/19 Open up, and, right sides together, fold with short edges matching.  Sew across the short edges to form a circle.

The Otari Hoodie Sew Along Part 7, Bands, thedreamstress.com

19. Re-fold the original pressed line, to form circular cuff bands with right sides facing out.

20. Right sides together, matching seams and notches, pin/clip your sleeve bands over your sleeve ends, and sew with a stretch stitch.

The Otari Hoodie Sew Along Part 7, Bands, thedreamstress.com

Tip>>>

You’ll need to stretch the sleeve bands slightly to get them to fit.

The Otari Hoodie Sew Along Part 7, Bands, thedreamstress.com

21.  Press bands down, and press seams down towards band.

And there is your hoodie, bands attached!

The Otari Hoodie Sew Along Part 7, Bands, thedreamstress.com

In the next Sew Along post:

Zips – including that tricky fusing & easing step.

Want to join in?  Buy your Otari Hoodie Pattern Here  

Rate the Dress: a very matching dinner dress

Set aside your sweatshirting, it’s silk time!  For this week’s Rate the Dress I’ve chosen a lavish, high-end dinner dress, complete with matching shoes.

Last week: an 1840s dress in striped silk

Quite a few of you liked the striped/plaid silk dress from last week, but more of you had reservations about it.  You felt that the silk was neither one thing nor another (not striped or plaid), and that the dress itself was not one thing or another – and was definitely in need of accessories to bring it to life.

The Total: 7.2 out of 10

A neither here nor there, needs some trimming, kind of score.

This week: an 1870s evening dress ensemble – complete with shoes

Dinner ensemble Department Store-(a, b) Kingsbury Designer-(c, d) Dupuis-Jacobs, 1874, French, silk, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2009.300.862a—d

This 1870s dinner ensemble comes complete with perfectly matching shoes, which come with their own quirky design feature: binding and lining in blue on one shoe, and gold on the other.  The detail would have been hidden under the wearers skirt most of the time: a secret for herself, and anyone lucky and observant enough to catch a glimpse of them peeping out from her skirt.

Dinner ensemble Department Store-(a, b) Kingsbury Designer-(c, d) Dupuis-Jacobs, 1874, French, silk, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2009.300.862a—d

The rest of the ensemble is carried out in the same minty green and gold,

Dinner ensemble Department Store-(a, b) Kingsbury Designer-(c, d) Dupuis-Jacobs, 1874, French, silk, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2009.300.862a—d

I am certain that the ribbon lacing the bodice in the museum photos is a modern recreation – so please don’t discount your rating on account of it!

Dinner ensemble Department Store-(a, b) Kingsbury Designer-(c, d) Dupuis-Jacobs, 1874, French, silk, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2009.300.862a—d

The predominant fabric on the front of the dress is a lush jacquard woven silk in shades of gold, overlayed with a blond lace which lends subtle depth and texture to the dress.

Dinner ensemble Department Store-(a, b) Kingsbury Designer-(c, d) Dupuis-Jacobs, 1874, French, silk, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2009.300.862a—d

The same lace is used across the dress, to frame a panel of pale green that runs up the centre back of the dress, as a frill to the hem of the bodice, and to curve up and around the neck.

Dinner ensemble Department Store-(a, b) Kingsbury Designer-(c, d) Dupuis-Jacobs, 1874, French, silk, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2009.300.862a—d

The spine at the back of the dress is echoed in a line of lace framed green on the sleeves.

Dinner ensemble Department Store-(a, b) Kingsbury Designer-(c, d) Dupuis-Jacobs, 1874, French, silk, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2009.300.862a—d

The green satin, used in such restrained amounts across the front of the dress and bodice, dominates the back skirt, both in a long smooth bustle, and in the pleats trimming the hem.

Dinner ensemble Department Store-(a, b) Kingsbury Designer-(c, d) Dupuis-Jacobs, 1874, French, silk, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2009.300.862a—d

What do you think?  Will this gold and green ensemble take home the gold rating?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

A reminder about rating — feel free to be critical if you don’t like a thing, but make sure that your comments aren’t actually insulting to those who do like a garment.  Our different tastes are what make Rate the Dress so interesting.  It’s no fun when a comment implies that anyone who doesn’t agree with it, or who would wear a garment, is totally lacking in taste.

(as usual, nothing more complicated than a .5.  I also hugely appreciate it if you only do one rating, and set it on a line at the very end of your comment, so I can find it!  Thanks in advance!)