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Kerry’s steampunk burlesque bustle

Kerry approached me after the talk on historical underwear I gave back in February, wanting a Steampunk-inspired bustle based on my 1870s bustle petticoat to use in her burlesque performances.

The inspiration - my 1870s bustle petticoat

After nailing down design ideas, we had lots of fun picking fabric.  Because Kerry is using this for performances, and needs to be able to have it cleaned frequently, we went for synthetics instead of natural fibres.

Together we found a really nice, heavy, bronze-coloured satin:

The base fabric

It is being contrasted with a truly lovely rayon with slightly irregular black and silver stripes:

The trim fabric. Aren't the imperfect stripes perfect for steampunk?

The whole outfit is about contrasts: shiny with matte, stiff with flowy, structured with draping, masculine and feminine.  Steampunk is the perfect foil for these contrasts, as steampunk is all about the contrast between modern technology and the less industrial, handmade aesthetic of pre-assembly line days.

There are lots of fun things going into the bustle:

Bias binding boning channel stripes

Cord gathering

Lots and lots of ruffles

Metres and metres of bias binding

And as the obvious follow on to that:

Some really clever hems finished with a variant on bias binding

I hope you enjoyed all the sneak peeks!  On Saturday for my finished project I’ll show you the completed bustle.

 

Rate the Dress: blue plaid in 1878

Last week’s 186os child’s party frock created the usual divisions I’ve come to expect with historical children’s clothes: some of you liked it for a child, many of you thought it would be much better on an adult, many of you wanted it for yourself, and a few of you questioned if it was appropriate for a child.  But overall, you liked it, and it rated an 8.6 out of 10.  I agree, but only if you take off that hideous overskirt.  With the overskirt my vote is only 4 out of 10!

For this week’s rate the dress my jumping off point is last week’s poll which asked you what your favourite fabric colour was.  An overwhelmingly large percentage of you said blue (25 out of 52, compared to 11 out of 52, for green, the next runner up).  Now I want to know if this abstract liking of blue fabric translates into liking an actual garment, or at least helps you to like it more.

So I present this  blue trimmed  blue tartan princess dress from the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.  According to the LACMA it is a young woman’s dress, which I presume means they think it was worn by a teenager.  Or maybe it’s just very small in size, even for a Victorian dress.

Young woman's dress, 1878, probably English, LACMA

Other than the novelty of the possible age of the wearer, the dress is classic late 1870s: slim lines, slightly bustled train, and details and pleats galore.  Do you like it?  Would you like it less if it were red tartan?

Rate the dress on a scale of 1 to 10

 

A few fabulous things

It’s been ages since I’ve done a fabulous things post.  So it’s definitely time to show off what I’ve gotten!

First off, a riding crop (because every historical costumer who aspires to riding habits needs a riding crop), two gorgeous pieces of china to add to my mix and match tea trios, and a cushion cover in the most fabulous print.

Luscious pillow cover, riding crop, saucer, and cup

The cushion cover needs a better cushion, but I think it is going to become the inspiration for my winter bedroom scheme.  It goes beautifully with all the peridot green curtains, but adds new zest.  Now I just need some chocolate brown (I’m cursing the impulse that led me to de-stash my chocolate brown cotton velvet a few months ago!), and some turquoise fabric for my other bed cushions.

Want to see a close up of the china?

I like the cup, but I *love* the saucer. It has swallows on it!

Swallows! And those luscious colours!  Happiness!

I also got another trio, but I think I’ll sell this one on.  I love the sophisticated colours, and how modern and non-cutesy it is, but somehow it’s too cool (Victorian cool, e.g. aloof, not modern cool) and perfect.

Lemon yellow and grey are too frosty for me

The yellow and grey trio is sitting on the most amazing pure white hand-done openwork tablecloth.

The central motif *Swoon*

It’s all worked in a four-quartered symmetrical pattern, and it reminds me of Hawaiian quilts, and it’s white on white, so naturally, I love it.

Love, love, love

The handwork is just staggering.  You’ll never believe what I paid for it though.

$3.  Yes. $3.

I don’t know whether to laugh or cry that so much beauty and dedication and talent goes for so little in a secondhand shop.

On the further textile goodness front, I found this uber-sweet little embroidered table mat:

Awwww! And exactly my colours!

And these exquisitely delicate lace motifs, each about 3 inches across, and perfect for including in a 1910s frock.  And I have just the right lilac silk to pair them with!

They are so, unbelievably, fine and delicate

And this beautiful linen hand towel, worked with a laurel motif and bows.  The handwork is so beautiful and precise that I almost passed it up because I thought it was machine done, but no, that is hand-appliqued silk for the bow, and hand-done  satin stitch for the laurel. A-maze-ing.

I love laurel motifs!

All three textile items above (or is it four because there are two lace motifs?) were photographed on the most sumptuous jewel toned cotton velvet.  Three metres for $8 at an op-shop, and just perfect for an 18th century jacket.  The photographs do nothing to capture how rich and delicious the fabric is.

The final textile fabulosity:  two vintage lace curtains, made of the most beautiful, fine, old fashioned lace.

Roses and peonies and spider webs

You simply can’t find lace of this quality anymore, even if you pay hundreds of dollars a metre.  Suffice to say I didn’t pay nearly that!

So beautiful and fine and light!

I particularly love this lace because of the spider web motifs.  My wedding veil was metal lace from the 1910s with a spider web motif, so I have a soft spot for the pattern.

My final find was a vintage fob watch with a floral basket chain.  I don’t think the chain and pocket watch go together, but I love both pieces, and will make good use of them.

Look at the adorable little flower baskets! How sweet is that?

I didn’t realise how fabulous the watch was until I got it home.  I thought it just looked cool on the outside:

Isn’t that cool? (Modern cool, not Victorian cool)

And then I realised it opened:

Even cooler!

And then I realised that it came out of it’s case:

So cool I swooned

And then I had a minute of utter vintage steampunk beauty induced happiness looking at the back of the watch:

All those cogs and gears and jewel-y thingees!

So now I’m just going to pet and hold and love it until I can let go enough to give it to Nini of Things Unseen and have her make me an amazing piece of bespoke jewellery.