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2016: A Sewing Year in Review

It’s that time of year again: the holidays done and dusted, and time to look back at what I accomplished this year, what I didn’t accomplish.

2016 was a weird year.  It was great on a career level (yay, I launched Scroop Patterns!).  And there were some personal/sew-y highlights (Costume College), but it was also a really horrible year on a personal level (things I don’t talk about here…).

My goal is to make 2017 even better on a career level (so many Scroop Patterns!).  And I’m going to do everything I can to make it a much better year personally, though I don’t have as much control over that by far, and a lot of my personal  grief and heartache of 2016 will continue for a while.

It’s also a year that came to an extremely frustrating end: my main working computer crashed catastrophically  on the 29th, while  I was backing it up: a disaster that appears to have taken both the hard drive, the backup it was doing, and the backup before that, with it (insert much wailing and gnashing of teeth).  I was finally able to take it to the shop today (the joys of public holidays!), but may have lost 10 days of work, including an amazing photoshoot.  So I’m feeling pretty glum as I type this on my backup computer, which is beginning to get a bit slow and grumpy.

But ultimately, this is a blog about sewing, so let’s look at that, and how I did:

2016 in sum:

I sewed at least 84 things (I kinda stopped counting the bibs, stockings, knickers, and singlet camisoles after a while, so there might be a few more).

29  of those were historical: 12 of which were made specifically for the Fortnight in 1916, and 5  of which were specifically for Costume College.  The remaining 12 were almost all for the Historical Sew Fortnightly.

Of the 55 non-historical things, 23 were trial or sample pieces for Scroop Patterns, 16 were bibs, and the other 16 were items for my wardrobe, craft projects, or gifts.

I launched Scroop Patterns,  and got three patterns out: The Henrietta Maria, Miramar Dress/Top/Tunic, and Wonder Unders

Top five  seven  favourites for 2016:

  1. The 1914-15 Cobwebs & Roses evening dress fulfilled a long-term sewing dream, and I felt gorgeous in it.
    A 1914 Cobwebs evening gown, thedreamstress.com
  2. My Sewing in 1916 blouse, sewn on a hand-crank 1891 vibrating shuttle machine during my Fortnight in 1916
    A 1914-16 blouse sewn on a Singer 27 vibrating shuttle thedreamstress.com
  3. The Woodwold Henrietta Maria.  Generally by the time I’ve launched a pattern I still love it, but I struggle to be super excited about a garment made from it, because I’ve made half a dozen of them.  This was definitely an exception, and is my most-worn garment of the year.
    The Scroop Henrietta Maria dress with elastic waist thedreamstress.com
  4. My circular cardigan.  Because how could I not love a thing that does vintage glam and Jedi Knight equally well?
    A circular cardigan with geek twist, thedreamstress.com
  5. The 1900s Touch of Blue corset was a really frustrating make, but it does mean that I finally have a proper S-bend corset
    Corset reproduction, circa 1905, thedreamstress.com
  6. The 1910s Little Miss Muffet frock  –  so fetching!

    Courtesy of Tony McKay Photography and Glory Days Magazine

    Courtesy of Tony McKay Photography and Glory Days Magazine

  7. The Goddess of Small Happinesses Frock.  I just feel so confident in it.
    The Goddess of Small Happinesses frock

 

With additional shout-outs to the 1913-16 Sunshine & Roses corset (if anything gets a name that’s a nod to Robin McKinley, it’s a sure sign I love it), 1910s black & white corset (so comfortable!), 1920s Autumn Cardigan (wear it all the time!), 1921 Fringe & Poppies ensemble (fancy me liking fringe!), and 1920s not-remotely-1-hour dress & sinamay hat.

The  least  favourite item of  2015:

  1. The 1910 corset of hubris and irony.  Pay attention to busk length.  It’s important!On the bright side, I could only come up with 1 item for this category!

Biggest Accomplishment:

Launching Scroop Patterns!

Scroop Wonder Unders scrooppatterns.com

 Goals for 2017:

  1. Patterns.  Patterns.  Patterns.  Patterns.  Patterns.  Patterns.  Patterns.  And then some more patterns!  Historical and modern ones!  All the Scroop Patterns!
  2. A really fabulous, high-fashion 1916 day dress
  3. A 1660s gown
  4. A really fabulous 1916 evening dress
  5. More  simple, everyday 1910s blouses and skirts.
  6. To re-fit my 1813 Kashmiri dress, and make a spencer or day-sleeves for it
  7. To finally finish the evil beast of the red velvet Elizabethan gown.
  8. To make a totally OTT and frilly 1900s blouse.
  9. To finish at least three other historical UFOs  (1760s punched silk gown? Chine a la br’etch gown?  That stack of 1910s combinations I misplaced halfway through sewing while planning the Fortnight in 1916?, a 1910s petticoat)
  10. Make more basic historical undergarments for lots of periods
  11. Make 1810s stays.

    And….I think I’d better stop while I have any chance of finishing the list!

So, my year didn’t quite go to plan, but I’m still pleased with myself.

What did you accomplish last  year that you are really pleased about?  What goals do you have for this  year?

Rate the Dress: 1870s figure illusions

I missed Rate the Dress last week due to my brain switching into complete holiday mode, but at least I left you on a high note!  Peter de Kempeneers 16th century Italian noblewoman in blue-green was almost universally popular – but only almost, because there is always one or two who don’t like something!  Because of the only almost, our noblewoman came in at 8.3 out of 10.

I’m feeling quite grey this week, so picked a dress to match:

This circa 1880 evening dress from Czechia an unusual grey, and tonally, reminds me of the last Rate the Dress.  It features the (relatively) figure hugging natural form silhouette of the late 1870s and early 1880s.  The body conscious silhouette is emphasized by a curvaceous cream panel, beating  2011’s illusion dress trend by over a 130 years!

Curve conscious it may be, but the curves are definitely Victorian: with full hips, and back emphasis that would have been supported by a small bustle.

What do you think? Can grey be good?

Rate the Dress on a scale of 1 to 10

Corset reproduction, circa 1905, thedreamstress.com

A 1900s touch of blue corset

If you’re a longtime reader of my blog, you’ll remember Theresa: she’s a former Wellingtonian, and every time she comes back for a visit, we dress up and do a photoshoot together.

We’ve done ca. 1880 (one and two), 17th & 18thc yellow (one, two and three), hoopskirts (one, two, and three), and Regency (one, two & hair), but Theresa has been asking for a 1900s photoshoot for ages.

To do 1900s properly, first I had to finish the two S-bend  corsets I’ve been working on for well over a year.

Corset circa 1905, thedreamstress.com

This is the second TV1901 corset that I’ve started, but they were both finished at the same time.  The first one got abandoned for a long, long time  due to frustration when I realised how much the sizing was off.  I’ll be covering that in more detail when I blog about my original attempt, but basically, the sizing doesn’t work in smaller waist/bust measures unless you also have a very small ribcage as well.  This particular corset is 3 sizes larger than Theresa’s recommended measurements, and while it could be a size smaller (it laces fully closed), it’s still nicely snug.  And Theresa has an average ribcage!

Corset reproduction, circa 1905, thedreamstress.com

Despite the headaches with fit, I’m very pleased with the end result.  There is still no space for hip padding, and only the tiniest space for bust padding, and overall I’d like a more exaggerated shape, but it was very comfortable to wear.

Corset reproduction, circa 1905, thedreamstress.com

Before the main photoshoot, we got these images of the new unders, along with my new-old 1923 Singer sewing machine.

Corset reproduction, circa 1905, thedreamstress.com

Felicity naturally showed up to investigate the excitement, so I picked her up for Theresa to pose with.  Felicity was not impressed.  She behaved very well, but she clearly doesn’t trust that Theresa isn’t going to drop her!

Corset reproduction, circa 1905, thedreamstress.com

This was finished the day of the photoshoot – 22 December, so it’s perfect for a very-slightly-early start to the 2017 Historical Sew Monthly

What the item is:  a 1901-8 corset

The Challenge:  #1  Firsts & Lasts – this is the first piece of a really fabulously frilly 1900s outfit that I want to make.

Fabric/Materials:  1m of ribbed cotton, op-shop find ($2)

Pattern:  Truly Victorian TVE01- 1903 S-Curve Corset

Year:  1901-8

Notions:  cotton thread, a busk ($30), grommets ($5), synthetic whalebone  ($20).

How historically accurate is it?    I chose to do flat felled seams, rather than leaving them open, and while I think I’ve seen this done in-period, I can’t find my references on it, and I may be mis-remembering.  My fabric is close, but not a perfect match to any fabric I can find used in a corset of this period.  I used a weird mix of threads, because I kept finding myself away from home, with only this to work on, and not exactly the right white cotton thread, so it’s a bit of a mish-mash if you look very closely.  I’m going to say 70%

Hours to complete:  Oh dear….  30+

First worn:  For  a photoshoot, 22 December.

Corset reproduction, circa 1905, thedreamstress.com